Hello BrickBoarders,

I was in a discussion with a colleague this afternoon about rustproofing. I think he, for the first time in his life, has a car he wants to keep for a while, and so he's considering ways to protect it.

He wanted to know my opinion of the electronic/electrochemical rust prevention methods like these:
http://www.counteractrust.com/

http://www.ruststoponline.com/


this article sums up what I think of them nicely:
http://corrosion-doctors.org/Car/car-electronic-rust.htm

Although the ruststoponline.com product seems to be at least mildly convincing.

I believe in the effectiveness of the chemical applications like rustcheck, wurth, fluidfilm, etc.

Also though, I think probably the best protection is a well built and well treated/galvanized body from the factory (which we brickers have!) and good washing habits.

Anyone out there care to weigh in with an expert or armchair opinion? How about actual experience?

I'd love to find some actual homebrew tests of this stuff...
I think I saw one once where a guy took three pieces of plate steel and treated one with something like rustcheck, hooked one up to an electronic device, and left the other untreated. I would love to find some links to folks who've done tests like this.

I would also like to know if either the chemical applications like rustcheck or the electronic devices mess up the galvanization of the metal done during assembly....


Please give your opinion!

J,

What?

I've never heard of a modern Volvo rusting unless the car has been wrecked and the sheet metal replaced with non-OEM parts or the undercoating has been compromised.

I believe that Volvo advises against after market rustproofing.

Of course, scratches and chips should be touched-up to avoid surface rust.

He should just keep it waxed and regularly wash the underbody to remove salt and other road debris.

If you want to avoid surface corrosion on suspension components there are several clear spray on sealants available.

Have fun,
Bryan

I think all manufacturers argue against after market rustproofing - but I don't know why exactly... I don't see why they would not support something that could make their cars last longer. Unless they have data that shows it actually makes them not last as long...


I agree with you completely that a good wash regimen and consistent waxing will help prevent a lot of problems.



Can you provide a link to one/some of the "several clear spray on selants available"?

I have painted suspension/brake components with a flat black paint before to help ward off corrosion. I was more concerned with longevity than appearance (bolt heads, keeping rust out from under bolts and nuts and washers, etc).

All surface rust can be prevented with a simiannual paste wax, especially the front and rear of the car.

Underbody rustproofing is discouraged by the factories because it can trap moisture if not applied correctly, causing additional problems. Our Volvos come galvanized and seldom rust.

The annoying suspension rust can be held at bay by using clear coat paint on new surfaces. Flat black looks good but it does not hold up as well as a gloss, so I suggest a thin clear coat to very clean metal.

At least Volvo doesn't have the Japanese/Korean problem of rusting rear fender wells any more.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

oh okay - so any gloss clear coat is probably fine then eh?

It works great, so long as the area is clean :) Just keep it off the "hot" parts of the car as any normal paint will burn.
It even works well with the scratched up fog lights, or what Volvo calls "fog" lights.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

HAHA you noticed that too eh?

What is with those fog lights? I guess they're more like driving lights really, but still...

Are the e-code fog lights any better?

I took the fog lights off my 1998 and without removing the lenses, lightly sanded the plastic lenses with 300-500 grit and added 2 coats of clear spray paint. I could then see the reflector through the lense!

These "fog" lights should have been the DRLs, they do not shine down the road. I didn't know that there are E codes for them.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

Great trick on the lenses!

I don't know if there are e-code lights or not - that's what I was asking about.

I don't know why automakers insist on putting shitty fog lights on NA cars.

daniel stern talks about this here:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html

I really like his site - he's very knowledgeable.