It finally happened to me! I've read numerous times about people complaining their ignition key locked up. I had always thought it was because of side force on the steering wheel, you pull the steering wheel off the stop locks to reduce the stress and bingo, you're good to go. Now I know that wasn't the issue. The key inserts normally, and advances to position one (which is past the steering wheel lock part, and you can turn the wheel) and you get some of the dash lights. However the key hits something internally and refuses to rotate further to the start position. I thought it might be some part of the security system so I called our local shop and asked if I could reset something by locking and unlocking the car with the remote or key or just stand on my head. They stated it appears something is broken inside and I'll need to have it towed in.

So in final desperation after jiggling, applying force in out, sideways I just torqued on it real hard towards the start position (around 10-15 foot pounds). Something felt like it broke, and the key went to the start position. I immediately drove home and did not make any of the planned stops in fear of being stranded.

At home I injected a small amount of tri-flow oil (has Teflon) using one of those small red tube extensions to get into the lock. In trying the key again, I could still feel a small catch at that position. More tri-flow, and now the catch is gone altogether and it appears normal.

Sorry for the long read, but here's the question for the group:

1) Does anyone know what went wrong?
2) Should we advise owners to periodically lube this area? Mine is a 2001 with 204K miles
3) What lubricant is recommended?
4) Should I now replace the lock mechanism, and if so any estimates on cost and degree of difficulty and special tooling required?

Thanks all, I hope we can learn more on this issue.

Jerry

Klaus,Tapsa thanks for the input. I believe there will be a regular maintenance to add some oil to the cylinder / tumblers on probably a yearly schedule.

Today I took off the column trim pieces to "look around". Not much to see so far, but I did locate the electronic portion to the switch and I removed it to confirm you can start it with a screw driver provided the key is in position one (disengages the mechanical locks). While I had that side off I sprayed on some Kroil with graphite, and also again from the key side using the thin red tube extension to get well inside the lock mechanism. All is now smooth as a baby's bottom, but I'll leave off the trim for a while and carry the tools I'd need for an emergency "screw driver" start. If all goes well as I would expect it too, I'll fully button it up in about a month.

Klaus, how do you do more lubrication that what I've done? I didn't see how the key light ring and chip recognizer comes off the cylinder, nor did I see how the cable comes off. Any hints would be helpful while I have most of it exposed. What about the brass plate on the bottom of the cylinder? If I remove it (not that I know how), can you put it back, or do the guts drop out and you are screwed, or the plate once removed is not replaceable. As you can tell, I'm relatively new to these Volvos. Give me something from the 70's and I could take it apart and reassemble blindfolded!

Jerry
01 V70 T5a
104K miles

Hi, for years (15x2) I've treated the ign.switch the same way as door locks.
Veapon oil at least twice a year, would be time again as November is ending and cold time is around the corner again.
br Tapsa
2x850-94
v70d5awd

Replacing the lock is a real PITA. Besides, you have to order a new lock from the factory and ruin your plug-in drill bits.

Graphite, graphite, graphite. Take the cover off the steering column to expose the lock and oil any moving part you see. Don't forget the small interlock cable in the rear. And don't break the security ring in the back.

Klaus
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Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.