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Cracked block fix update 850 1997

As suggested on the Brickboard and in the archives (mainly referring to 960s with block problems), I had my mechanic remove the intake manifold and put epoxy on the crack after grining it down. So far so good 1 week later.

As I mentioned before my wife loves this car and it is in great shape with approximately 180,000 miles, probably averaging less than $1000 per year in maintenance and repairs since we bought it in 1999, although this year I spent about $2000. I only do minor service myself like oil changes, tuneups and brakes. Still cold original AC, original transmission (flushed occassionally), quiet interior (rubber door seals good). It's the GLT (light pressure turbo) and I enjoy the acceleration when I get a chance to drive it. However I am more comfortable in the 240 and 940 seats which seem to be a little bigger and further from the steering wheel.
--
1993 240 Classic; 1992 240; 1997 850 GLT








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    Cracked block fix update 850 1997

    How much did he charge you for the epoxy repair (without the cost of the first intake removal)?

    Did you investigate an appropriate epoxy, or did he just use whatever he found at the hardware store?








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      Cracked block fix update 850 1997

      The epoxy repair was about $490 to remove and replace intake manifold, prep engine block, apply epoxy. They said a lot of time was spent trying to dam up the epoxy as it ran down the block.

      I provided the epoxy JB Weld based on "word of mouth" and a search here since there was post regarding the same fix to the problematic 960 blocks.

      I still smell antifreeze after driving, but haven't had the time to check it out in detail. No obvious drips like there was before the repair.
      --
      1993 240 Classic; 1992 240; 1997 850 GLT








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        Cracked block fix update 850 1997

        If this were my car, I would replace the coolant reservoir with a reservoir from a junkyard from a vehicle that uses a standard, old-fashioned, radiator cap. I would then go to NAPA and get a radiator cap with a low pressure specification.

        My objective is be to reduce the coolant system pressure.

        In the old days, if your cooling system sprang a minor leak, and everything else was fine with your engine, you could limp-by by "releasing" the radiator cap, which essentially caused your cooling system to run at ambient pressure.

        Your coolant system is working under pressure for two reasons: 1) to raise the boiling point of the coolant and 2) to prevent cavitation at the water pump.

        Assuming your engine is in basically good shape, and you are not driving the car like a race car, I would not worry about issue 2). And, assuming you have a good mix of antifreeze in your engine I would not worry too much about 1).







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