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Hello Klaus....and everyone else,
I've been shopping and have finally made up my mind on what Volvo I want (1998 S70). I've located a model that's a T5 with 98,000 miles. Offered by a Volvo dealer and has just undergone the timing belt service and brand new tires on all corners. I think it could be bought for just under $5,000. This vehicle will replace my trusty old 90' 740GL for daily driving to and from work. Is the T5 more costly to maintain than the GLT model? I did drive the vehicle tonight and didn't notice any pops, squeeks, or anything else. It drove straight down the highway at 70+ mph and was smooth. I was expecting rocket like acceleration when I put my foot into it......nice, but not like I had imagined. I did hit just below redline going through the automatic shifting...so I think it' producing full power. Any advise/ input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Vinnie
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This is "free" of course :)
Dealer 'just' did the timing belt? That was supposed to be done at 70K. Once the tack gets to 2500, the car should take off like a rocket and exhibit a little torque steer at slower speeds. The T5 is a fast car, but easy on the gas at normal speeds.
I don't trust dealers, for good reasons. Their maintenance schedule is not all inclusive, nor does it involve how the car has been driven. I doubt the PS, brake, coolant, or tranny fluids have ever been flushed. The PCV system has nevver been cleaned out, especially the PCT nipple on turbos. All things that YOU can easily do on your own time.
The 5 cylinder engine, with or without, a turbo is extremely good. But, you should still do a baseline compression test with a warm engine, just to make sure you don't have a pending problem like sticky valves. The fix for sticky valves is easy, just keep the rpms above 3K for 15-20 minutes.
Before you buy, and my reccomendation is to do so, verify that all of the electrics work, the ebrake works easily, the seat heaters work, and also find out if it has 'sport' suspension, harder springs.
As to the maintenance issue regarding a turbo Vs NA, they are basically the same. There are a few more parts in the turbo, but they are quite simple and seldom fail. The turbo gets about 28mpg highway, the NA close to 31mpg. BOTH engine need at least 89 octane, 91 if you get on the throttle a lot. 87 octane will actually lower your mileage because of the knock sensors retarding the timing.
Take the car for another 'test' ride and see if the BHP kicks in at 2500-3500rpm. From a standing start, no brakes, the car should get to 25mph in a hohum fashion and then explode after that speed. If it doesn't do that, the turbo blow off valve might be sticking or leaking, have it fixed. The 1998 does not have a boost gauge like the 850's had, so it is hard to tell how much boost is being provided except seat of the pants feeling.
The T5 is a great car and fun to drive. Getting the ECU re-chipped at IPD is a good option if you want more speed, it also removes the 130mph limit from the factory.
In regards to synthetic motor oil, I would go that route in a heart beat. A cleaner engine will live longer and perform better, besides only changing the oil every 5K-7K is a plus. When you flush the tranny, I would also suggest using Mobile 1 ATF for smoother and cooler tranny. You live in a hot climate and the tranny takes a beating.
Don't get too many speeding tickets with that ride :)
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Wow....THE KING HAS SPOKEN !!! :o)
Thank you sooo much Klaus for the valuable information. My independent shops also say it's a good car (Johnny's Auto Clinic - Volvo Specialist in San Antonio, and North Boerne Automotive - Also a Volvo Specialist where I live in the Texas Hill Country).
The car is fast, but I was expecting it to get away from me...as I've read from some other folks on forums. All accessories worked and I did go to sport mode on the suspension....which appeared to have worked.
I just made a cash offer for 4K. Asking price is $5,500.00. So, we'll meet somewhere in between. Bluebook retail is 5K....so, I'm guessing he's trying to make up for the timing belt job and the new Dunlop tires......we shall see.
Thanks again Klaus....and everyone else!
Vinnie
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The transmission shift points are altered with the S,E and W switch, not the suspension. Sport springs were an option and you have to have the product plate interpreted for you, the plate is next to the battery. The dealer parts guys can do that for you.
The "S" will raise the tranny shift point to 6K rpm at full throttle and makes the car more fun. I always suggest to use "S" around town, it helps the engine breathe better :) and will not effect the mpg very much.
The "E" is for economy. It shifts up sooner and downshifts later than "S". Very good on the open highway when you don't want it to downshift everytime you give it a little gas.
"W" is for winter ICE. Don't ever use it. It forces the tranny to start up in 3rd gear to minimize wheel spin. It also causes a lot of wear on the torque converter. The factory put it in all Volvos, but suggests it is only to get you started from a slippery stop. Don't use it.
Having new tires is worth $500. Because the timing belt was 18K overdue, that does not increase the price, but you can always add the parts, not the labor, to your offer. Deduct for not having the fluids flushed. Pull a spark plug, if it says Volvo on the plug then smile, if not then deduct another $50 to get real spark plugs.
You will still have to replace the distributer cap and rotor and fuel filter, a 90K thing. But, the car is fun to drive and quite safe.
Drink a bottle of Lone Star for me,
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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Klaus....does this sound right about the transmission service?
Copy & Pasted from correspondence with Volvo dealership:
Vinnie
I am sending our service records on the car (attached pdf) . The last page shows records that have been purged from the system. The car was service here thru the first and second owners. The last owner did not service with us as they lived in Harker Heights (Killeen)
It is nine pages. If it does not come thru, let me know and we will try another way to get it to you.
The transmission on this car does not require fluid changes every 20 - 30K miles. Volvo recommends changing at the 52k maintenance IF you tow with the vehicle.
Here to assist you:
Mon - Sat: 9-7
Regards,
Larry Gray - Internet Sales
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Nice dealer! A lot of us on the board agree with flushing the tranny at 50K max, regardless. More frequent if stop and go traffic or hauling a trailer. Just pull the dip stick under the fresh air duct, driver's side, and if it looks black - find another car. More brown than red means it is time for a flush, easy DIY in 30 minutes. Minimum of 10 quarts of ATF per flush.
Klaus
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Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.
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They 'don't recommend it' because they want you to bring them money to pay for a new transmission when it blows up. Volvo says they put 'lifetime' transmission fluid in. So it's good for like 5 years more or less. Jeep says the same thing in their owners manual because they're idiots. The ATF fluid gets old and needs to be changed in ANY car. I'd say that it really depends on how you drive and what you DO with your car (lots of stop & go/towing/climbing lots of hills/lead-footed driving) that determines the interval, but 30K/2 years is a good interval for changing most fluids.
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Great.....thanks again Klaus!
Will have a cold Lone Star for ya !!!
Cheers!
Vinnie
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I'm not Klaus, but I'd say get it. I love my T5...I bought mine having to change both the timing belt and tires. Mine's not a rocket (especially off the line - the 2.3L engine is pretty small without the turbo at full boost), but it's certainly fast. The end of 1st gear is crazy fast, and passing from about 55-75 is insane. Things to check again before you buy it: TEST THE A/C. If it is not ice cold within a minute or so, there is probably a leak in the evaporator (~$1200 to have someone else do), check the transmission fluid color & level, and pull out the dipstick once the car is warmed up & running & see if you see any smoke from it. Poke around the engine compartment for oil leaks.
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Air condition felt cold after start-up and it did blow strong running the car hard (I thought I read something about faulty ducting doors giving out and not blowing out the vents when under power?). Did not notice anything being "moist" in the engine comparment and under the car. The negatives on the vehicle are incomplete maintenance records...I only found two stamps in the back of the manual. The Volvo dealership selling the car said they have gone through the car. It was always a central Texas car and only two owners.
I guess my whole thing here is I just don't want a maintenance hog compared to the trusty old 1990 740GL. I either have to put $5,000 + into the 740GL with close to 280,000 miles to make it cosmetically perfect (minor rust repair on roofline, complete paint job, complete interior refurbishment, and driveshaft repair) or spend the same amount for a newer brick -1998 with 98,000 miles. Regardless, I plan on keeping the 740GL as a spare car and make it a one-piece-at-a-time project over a long period of time. One additional question...should I lean toward the newer model....is the GLT more reliable vs. the T5? Does the T5 require more maintenance? Thanks for your input.....greatly appreciated.
Vinnie
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Wow, I hope you are not serious about putting $5000 into a 740 with 280,000 miles. It's a nice car but $5000?
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It sounds crazy, I know. The car belonged to my father (so, I guess it has more sentimental value).
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The GLT and the T5 are essentially the exact same car, only the T5 is...well...better. The engine internals (conn. rods, valves) are better, as is the suspension. No more maintenance, although switching to synthetic oil if it's not using it already could only do good things for it. Without maintenance records, I'd check the Carfax and make sure it hasn't been in any accidents; other than that, just give the car a good once-over and make sure everything works!
That said, they're probably not as reliable as the old-school Volvos that NEVER break..."advanced" technology complicates ALL things, and there are common problems associated with them all, but going on almost 2 1/2 years, mine has been great to me - nothing has really outright broken on mine, and usually the things that go wrong are nothing too hard for you to fix yourself. With an 11-year-old car though, things are old and some minor repairs will no doubt come up.
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I am not Klaus, either .... but,
I have owned a '98 V70 T5M since mid-2002. In that time, I have had zero maintenance or repair issues with the turbo. As Klaus will eventually tell you, the turbo is one of the most reliable compnents of the T5. Just be sure to use Mobil 1 (or equal) religiously.
My biggest repair item was the replacement of a failed AC evaporator, which required a major field stripping of the front of the cockpit. Other than that, it has been the usual preventive and corrective items. You are already a Brick owner, so you know.
As for acceleration ... if you are looking for more kick in the pants, IPD vends a variety of "enhancements". I might suggest that you begin with a so-called "Stage One" upgrade: Sport Exhaust and ECU reflash. That mod alone should take you from 236 HP stock to 285 HP. Trust me, you will notice the difference. Next, I might recommend an HD Turbo Control Valve upgrade. You won't see any additional horses, but your existing horses will arrive at the party much sooner. After that, you are on your own.
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Valuable info...thanks. Why is it necessary to run Mobil 1 in thse engines? I run Mobile 1 in my Cayman -which is a known for any Porsche owner. What happens if I just run regular oil like I do in the redblock 740?
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It's not necessary, they just run better. I noticed mine smoothed out a lot when I switched to synthetic. Plus, it's better for the turbo - it doesn't overheat and "coke" up on the turbo insides when pushed hard.
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