or, can I reuse the existin seal and will it work as long as I have cleaned up the metal and reglue?

Your leak is between the galss and the metal frame that surrounds the glass. The "fix" is to remove the rusty metal frame around the glass, remove all of the rust, then primer and paint it black again. This is a multiday job, if the metal frame is any good.

I bought a replacement at Strandberg salvage yard, where I could pick from multiple SR's. I found one that had no rust and it workded for me.

MIJ, over on matthew's volvo site, took his apart, sanded and repainted, and then put on a new rubber weather strip using windshield glue. The factory glue was "green" for the environment, but only lasts about 5-7 years in the hot sun.

Klaus
--
Proud owner of a 1967 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos.

The seal around the sunroof is not meant to keep weather and water out. The sunroof operates on a gutter and drain system. Water gets past that seal by design, collects in a gutter around the sunroof and drains through the body to the ground. The drains are most likely clogged. The drains are located at the front corners of the sunroof "pan" - meaning the sunroof should be open and there are two holes at each of the front corners. They may be somewhat obstructed from view by the wind deflector which pops up with the roof open. I clean the drains with bursts of compressed air. You can actually pour water into the gutter around the open sunroof and test if the drains are working. I think they travel through the A-pillars and deposit water down near the mudflap.

db,

The rubber seal is not designed to be waterproof. Water is expected to enter the trough below the glass to be drained away.

The drain holes and/or the tubes than run down to the trunk or the discharge outlets below the L&R 1/4 panels are blocked--probably with pine needles, silt, etc.

Check the archives for location and procedure to clear.

Bryan