Most of the oil trap writeups on the forums deal with the pre-2001 vehicles.

I figured I would add some lessons learned after I did my v70 2003.

My symptoms of the bad oil trap. Whistling and high suction on the oil cap. Had to use almost two hands to pull off the cap.

As a temp fix I pulled the dip stick out a little and this stopped the whistling, Check engine light came on (lean mixture). Car ran okay, stalled when stopping short but that's it.

Cost of parts About $80. Oil Trap, top hose to a sensor passenger side manifold (its visible), short tube to the block and regular hose claps.

Tools.
Must have a 1/4in drive, extensions, flex (!/4 in each side), 10mm socket.
This is for the manifold bolt near the sensor above. To make more room you can rip the hose off the sensor (this hose will be replaced). Guess you can take the water hose off (i didn't). Real difficult to get the sensor off, the back bolt is too difficult to fool around with.

Need a 3/8in drive extensions and flex 10mm, 12mm.

Biggest issue.

The quick connect on the fuel line. I called every volvo dealer in the area, spoke to the head service managers. No special tool to remove. I was told the connect was a european sytle. Most of the service managers didn't even know what I was talking about and the parts diagram called the piece a spacer.

Part of my problem in removing the connect was that I thought the disconnect was removed from the rail. I now know that the disconnect stays on the rail and that the fuel line (which has only a little play) is pulled from the connect.

To disconnect I ended up having to pull the injector rail out using a pick to release the connect from the line. As a followup I am again contacting Mac-tools and Snapon with a picture of the connect. When I spoke to them they said they didn't have any type of tool for the connect. Possibly seeing picture might help in finding a tool.

Other considerations.

After you remove all the intake bolts (don't remove the bottom bolts they are slotted) you think that the intake will lift out. There is another bracket (bolt 12mm) under the 2nd intake passenger side. You can see it from under the car. I took it the bolt off from under the car but was able to put the bolt back by snaking my arm under the manifold.

When you are ready to reassemble leave the bracket a little loose. This is so you can adjust the bracket to align with the hole.

I did not replace the intake gasket but tighten the bolts fairly tight. It is difficult to use a torque with extensions and impossible to use it on the bolt near the sensor.

When placing the injector rail back on make sure you grease the injector gaskets going into the intake. This will prevent cracking. I used motor oil to lube them. To install the rail line up the injectors push in driver side first working right to left. The connect just snaps in.

Before starting the job, pull the fuel pump fuse out and start the car. This will burn excess fuel in the lines. Also make sure you relieve the pressure using the pin on the rail, passenger side.

Of course disconnect the battery from the rear of the car after you purged the lines.

Make sure you allocate two days to do the whole job.

The check engine light was resolved after I finished.

Good Luck.

Madness