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Hello again lads.
The front right has been making some ominous noises lately when hitting bumps in the road. Just opened the hood and I noticed I could turn the round fixture on the upper strut mounting fairly easily. The drivers side seems normal and doesn't turn by hand.
Time for... what???
Around 115,000 miles on the '93 850 GLT. Around half of them are mine, so I'm pretty sure these are the original struts and bushings.
Any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.
- thumbs
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Yes, everything Klaus said. Most 850's I work on go to the graveyard with their original struts and shocks. Not that they couldn't stand replacement, but it seems they never wear out to the point of absolutely needing replacement. With 115K, they might only be half used up. It is common at my shop to just replace the bushing. OE part number ends in "713" - that's how common a job it is. Wouldn't recommend replacing them yourself because of having to compress the spring. Haven't had to fuss too much with alignment afterwards, but there is always adjustment to be had even on a "perfectly" set up vehicle. Some shops will try to sell you "while we're at it" replacement of struts and strut bearings, but this is one instance where just the bushing can and should be replaced. We get about $150 per side as a reference.
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BJ,
The mechanic I went to isn't really a Volvo specialist. That is perhaps why his initial assessment was bad struts. Good guy though.
I'll probably order a new spring seat from Groton and look for an opportunity to get the work done.
Thanks for the info. I can always depend on Brickboard and it's contributors for solid advice.
Very much appreciated!
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Not the mount, but the rubber bushing needs to be replaced.
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Thanks for your ear Klaus, (again!).
Does the "rubber bushing" you're referring to require removing the strut?
Is it a DIY'er? Or is that perilous spring removal procedure involved?
I better take care of it as the right front feels really weird when I go over dips in the road at an "entertaining" speed.
Thanks!
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Even as slow as I am, it took 2 hours to remove/replace the strut. The second one took 1 hour :)
Yes, you need a spring compressor. The bushing is between the spring and the mount. I bought a compressor at Sears, on sale(?) for $54. But the mechanic wanted a few hundred in labor to replace both.
It is not hard, and if you do not replace the struts, you can just scribe the mount with a pencil before removal so you put it back in exactly the same place. Otherwise, this procedure calls for an alignment - about $100 at a good shop.
I was quoted $950 from an Indie to replace both struts and hardware with OEM. I did it for less than $550 and installed Koni sports.
Until the rubber starts falling out, your car will be OK. After that, the mount takes all the punishment and could put a dent in the hood.
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Klaus,
I just returned from seeing my mechanic. I opened the hood and the top of the strut wouldn't rotate at all. Got home and the I was able turn easily turn the strut fixture by hand. On the way back to the mechanic I pulled over and it wouldn't turn at all. Made a sharp U-turn, (heard my ugly groan when the wheel is turned sharply) and stopped to inspect. It was rotating freely again.
My mechanic finally saw the what I was talking about, and he said I needed new struts, and nothing regarding the "rubber bushing" you mentioned. He invited me to come back when his lift was free to inspect from underneath.
What should I do to get control of the situation, and make sure the right things get done. Should I make sure alignment is part of the deal?
Thanks for your patience.
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The correct term is "spring seat", and, you need a new one(OEM only). Unfortunately, it is the same labor to also replace the strut and an alignment is required if the strut is replaced. IF you opt to have the strut replaced, you need to replace both sides, along with new spring seats and OEM bolts.
Shop around if you can to other mechanics, it won't hurt. If you haven't replaced the sway bar endlinks, visit IPD.com for their improved links. The end links are easy to replace - a 15mm box wrench, a 15mm socket, and some PBBlaster of course.
Some autoparts stores will lend you a spring compressor, sometimes of dubious quality, and that can really reduce your investment.
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/category_id/181/nm/Suspension_Front_and_Rear/sub_top_menu_item/by_make-by_model-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/1136/by_year/43
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Klaus,
Sounds like I need the new "spring seat," and the struts with 115,000 miles are good to go.
Did the end links, bushings and motor mounts last year.
Any opinion on that ugly groaning from the front when the wheel is turned all the way?
Thanks for your advice!
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Could that be your power steering pump when the wheel is locked? Or a wheel bearing. To check the wheel bearing, jack the wheel off the ground and try to wiggle the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock. Usually when a wheel bearing goes, it will make speed dependent noise all of the time, just worse while turning.
Oh, if your wheels are wider than 205, it could be rubbing on the inner fender?
Klaus
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I am not a mechanic, so can you trust what I type?
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