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Greetings,
I've been working on my 855 today, replacing the water pump and timing belt. I ran into a problem with the intake and exaust cam gears. the intake gear moved counter clockwise about 3 "teeth" - the exaust gear moved clockwise about the same, 3 teeth. I had an IPD tool holding the gears in place, and Im not quite sure how it happened but the tool slipped and the gears moved. (Gears or pulleys, my mind is mush at this point!) The crank gear didn't move. Did I trash anything? How can I correct this??? Its been a tough day! HELP!!!
thanks,
1bignordic
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I will Klaus, I will! Thanks again!
1bignordic
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Klaus, and all others that helped me!
The job is complete! Test drove nice and easy, the ticking went away, everything is super! I thank you all so much, I couldn't have done it without you help, knowledge, and support. Thanks again!
1bignordic
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Good job! Now it is your turn to help others with Tbelt questions and problems :)
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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First I set the crank timing mark on TDC, then I set the intake cam on TDC and tighten the three gear bolts using the spanner wrench to hold it in place. With the exhaust gear in place but the three bolts hand tight I install the timing belt then release the tensioner and loosen the three bolts. The tensioner should take up all slack in the belt. When you see that the belt is slack free, tighten the three exhaust gear bolts. I just tighten the exhaust gear up last to equalize the timing belt tension. If the belt went on with the gears on the timing marks, it should work OK when the tension gets equalized.
I hope this helps with your tension.
RK
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I want to make it clear that I rotated the engine by hand about 4 revolutions, no resistance. I put everything back together and started it up and I got what I think is a valve ticking, kind of on the loud side, I shut it down.
I'm assuming the t-belt is on correctly or it wouldn't have hand rotated. I'm thinking the car has sat for over a month, sticky valve??? I just bought the car a couple of months ago and haven't changed the oil yet, it needs it and is down about a quart, could this cause ticking? I haven't added a quart because I don't know what kind/viscosity the previous owner used, would it hurt to add some Mobil 1 10W-30?
Your guys have been so patient with me, and I've learned so much from you, I will become a financial contributor, on payday!
1bignordic
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Hi Klaus,
I have been going by the routing that Bay 13 says to use, I also drew a diagram before I removed the old belt, and the suggested way, and the way I diagramed is the same. I read somewhere that you can lock the tensioner, I'm going to see if I can do this, it might help me free up a hand...Thanks...
1bignordic
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Hi,
I forgot to add to my last message...any tips on getting the serpentine belt on??? just won't quite make it!
Thanks
1bignordic
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You are threading the belt on wrong. The new belts have a different pattern for some good reason.
Look on MVS or Volvospeed or IPD web site for a pattern.
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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http://volvospeed.com/Repair/850_serp.pdf
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Klaus and Lee,
I got everything put back together and rotated the engine a few times by hand, everything lined up fine. I really wanted to fire it up but I couldn't get the new PITA serpentine belt on, started getting frustrated and decided to start fresh tomorrow. Thanks for all your help, I will update this when I actually start the car...Thanks again...
1bignordic
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Hi Klaus,
Thanks for the information. I think what happened was I didn't have the IPD lock in properly and when trying to pull the belt tight it slipped, turning the intake sprocket counter clockwise, then with the tool in place the tool turned the exaust sprocket CLOCKWISE...so you say I can just back them up into place? Even though one move clockwise and the other moved counter-clockwise?
I'm going to double check today to make sure the crank didn't turn, last night I was overloaded! If the crank did turn, whats up then???
This is a first time for me, a very interesting challenge, hopefully not costly!
Thanks for all the help!
1bignordic
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You are probably past this point by now. The cams can be moved by hand back to the original position, without harm. Same with the crank. They cannot be moved 360 degrees!!!! Just put them back where they belong.
You can forget about the IPD tool if it slips, you really don't need that thing so long as you know where the alignment marks are.
After the belt is on and the marks look good and the tensioner is doing its thing, take out the spark plugs and turn the engine slowly by hand at least 720 degrees. If there is any resistance, rotate the engine back to the starting point and check all of the marks again, otherwise put the plugs back in and start the engine and let it run for at least 1-2 minutes. This lets you take a look at the belt and you can see if it fits correctly on the rollers.
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Hi Lee,
Thanks for the note. I didn't crank the engine with the starter, I wouldn't do that until I hand cranked it a couple of revolutions.
I was trying to get the belt snug between the intake and exaust gears, I just can't get it snug. If I push on the belt halfway between the gears the belt moves about 3/4 of an inch.
How do I "back up" the gears?
Thanks,
1bignordic
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Get the belt off and use a wrench, you are thus far fine and you can recover. I have some pictures of what to look for in this thread:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19831
You can ignore much of that if you aren't changing your water pump but the stuff toward the end is relevant.
Be very slow and deliberate when you re-compress the tensioner. If you force the tensioner you can damage it.
...Lee
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If you haven't moved the crankshaft, you are OK. Lee just assumed you tried to turn the engine and you can rotate it counter clockwise to get back to the timing mark.
Take the belt off, leave the tensioner locked, and try putting the belt on again. As you face the engine, the belt goes on under the crank, then up the right hand side. Then do the left had side up to the exhaust cam, and push it on. Keep the IPD thingy on the cams in the proper position to make it easier.
You can do it,
Klaus
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The more I learn, the more I forget. So why learn?
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Hopefully you didn't crank it with the starter before cranking it through a couple of revolutions by hand. If you did, very bad things could have happened.
If you didn't crank it with the starter you can back the whole thing back up and re-time the shafts. The timing belt will want to mess with the tensioner when you crank it backwards but with the spark plugs out it shouldn't be to bad.
The secret to life here is to get the belt very taught over the idler from the crankshaft sprocket to the intake cam sprocket and then the rest of the way around before you pull the "grenade pin" on the tensioner.
...Lee
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