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Hello folks,
My tailgate wiper has taken to either working very slowly and weakly, or not working at all.
I haven't had the tailgate apart to check things out yet, but I would appreciate suggestions as to what might be the problem and what I might be looking for. And of course remedies.
If it turns out that I need a new wiper motor assembly, which ones will work?
Obviously another 1998 V70 will work, but I'm assuming 1998-2000 used the same part?
What about beyond that?
What about the earlier 850 wagons - did they have the same part too?
All help/comments appreciated.
-Joel
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 190k+
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All wagons from 1994-200 will work for you. BUT, it is probably not the wiper motor that is at fault. The shaft that connects the motor on the inside to the arm on the outside is probably frozen up due to salt and other contaminates.
It is best to take the motor off and lube the shaft. Not an easy operation, but one that usually works wonders. Leave the wiper arm on and with the motor off, work the shaft around with added oil unitl it moves freely.
Klaus
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Common sense trumps a PhD
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As prescribed, lubrication was the key.
All the 'arm' joints were working fine, the problem was in the bore that holds the wiper spindle and goes through the tailgate window. Everything else was fine - this was frozen solid.
I pulled the whole thing out, cleaned out that bore/tube and lubed everything up nice, and it works better than it ever has.
This only took a couple of hours.
I even repainted my wiper arm while I had it off. It looks awesome.
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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Hey Klaus thanks.
Any chance this could be done with the motor still in the car?
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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Sorry. The panel has to come off. There is too much resistance by the motor, besides risking damage to the internal stops which tell the motor where to stop wiping and where to park the blade when off.
Stop by a dealer and get a few plastic studs for the lower part of the panel, you will break at least one off :)
Klaus
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Common sense trumps a PhD
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If you own a 98 V70, and the tailgate panel is still firmly attached, consider yourself very lucky. More than likely, it has come loose at one or more studs, due to "energetic" closings over the years.
Regardless, removal of the panel for wiper repairs is a golden opportunity to install the IPD Tailgate Panel Repair Kit.
http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=128,370,498&P_ID=212&CAT_ID=498&V_ID=629
It installs very easily, will lock down your panel firmly. and will withstand future uncontrolled closings.
Just a thought ....
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Of course, if the tailgate does come down too fast, new struts will solve that problem.
Klaus
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Common sense trumps a PhD
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I didn't want to look like an IPD sales rep mining the Brickboard, so I left it at the kit recommendation.
But, I knew full well that Klaus would follow up with a suggestion to replace the struts, as well.
BTW, strut replacement is very simple. The first one may take you three minutes. Armed with that knowledge, the other one will take one minute.
If your tailgate has a habit of falling on your head, you will find that replacing the struts is money well spent.
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I have already done the struts (OEM from FCP) and was very happy with that job.
My tailgate interior panel was flopping all over the place. I had to pull it off because the linkage for the opener-handle had come apart inside and after I fixed that all up I couldn't get it back on.
I actually took all the plastic fasteners out completely and drilled small holes to match up with the mount points for the plastic studs, and used black zip ties to hold the interior panel on. There is now a black zip tie where each stud used to be. I am actually quite happy with this arrangement, as it makes it easy to get off again, and is a very strong mechanical fastening. Admittedly it doesn't look as good as the underneath-the-panel plastic studs, but you don't seem them unless you really go looking for them. And they do hold well.
I'm working on getting my wife to close the doors more gently, but she doesn't seem to grasp the concept for the tailgate....
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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Excellent advice from all of you. Another thing you can do once the inner panel is off: install sound-deadening film to the metal of the tailgate. I used Deadskin from Rockford Fosgate. I've applied it in several cars; the older and more buzzy, the more it helps.
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This is great advice! I hope I can find some place local that sells it. Maybe a car-stereo installation place?
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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I bought the DeadSkin at a car stereo place. It's surprisingly expensive, obviously a lucrative profit item for the companies that sell it. Some folks have used some sort of gutter or roof insulating mastic that they bought in sheets at Home Depot but I never confirmed if the local one had it. For soundproofing, you need a material with mass so that it will reduce vibration modes. That's why the soundproofing sheets I have seen are tar based with a foil covering. Light material like fiberglass fuzz won't do anything to dampen metal ringing.
By the way, one needs to convince one's spouse to not slam the tailgates vigorously, just lower carefully.
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How heavy is this stuff then? Will it adversely affect the lifting capability of the trunk struts?
Does anyone have any experience with the spray in stuff? Maybe it doesn't have enough, as you say, mass?
BTW, on working on the SO in this regard... she's coming along.
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1998 V70 AWD Turbo 195k+
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The sheets I installed, 3 12x12-inch sheets, weighed all of 1/2 lb or so, nothing to influence the struts. Dynamat is the other brand of soundproofing. I've never tried the spray stuff but have considered it for the firewall of my 1981 BMW, where the tar-like firewall lining broke away in pieces years ago. I don't know about the heat resistance, but that would not affect your tailgate. Old-fashioned undercoating spray may also work. I think it is mostly tar. Can you even buy it now?
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