I'm about to change the timing belt on my daughter's car. We do not live too close, so I'd like to make sure I have all the parts on hand so I can get this done in a day, and have a day reserve in case it gets ugly as sometimes these things do. When I went to order parts, it seems I need to know the engine serial number. Read up on having my daughter get that for me, but wanted to explore other ways to do this. It all revolves around if the engine has the older hydraulic "automatic" tensioner or the newer "manual" one. I've read that if the car has the distributor version, then it is the hydraulic tensioner. Is this a "for sure thing"? I know it does have the distributor type ignition.

Can the car be converted to the newer manual tensioner, and just order those parts instead? Is there any advantage of one system over the other? I know the tensioner on the manual is replaced with the belt, and it seems good practice to replace the hydraulic unit every other time along with the tensioner and idler pulley. I’m doing the 140K change (a little late at 150K) so I am skipping the water pump this time, but will get it next time unless someone can convince me otherwise.

Any other comments or recommendations are always appreciated. Also, does anyone have the bolt pattern for the 4 bolts that hold the crankshaft harmonic balancer to the pulley? I’d like to make my own tool that Volvo recommends for the change. I do have some experience on these as I did my 01 V70 T5a about 3 months ago and wish I had that tool when re-torqueing the crankshaft nut.

Jerry
01 V70 T5a

The S/V70 engines on cars built after May 1998 will probably have the new tensioner. No, you may not replace the old style tensioner with the new one. I would order new tensioner rollers with the belt. The hydraulic tensioner should last a while longer yet. Also get a new S belt, it has to come off anyway.

You should be able to change the belt without removing the crank pulley, it is just a tight fit. Remove the spark plugs to make engine rotation easier. Mark the crank TDC position indicator with whiteout.

The non-VVT engine does not need to be rotated past TDC and back again, there is no tension on the cams. The cams will move freely, so be careful.

Klaus
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Common sense trumps a PhD

Klaus,

Thanks for the advice. On a different forum, I had a reply that said I could convert to the manual tensioner, but recommended the hydraulic for its "ease of installation". YEP, after compressing it, it is pretty simple, but the manual I did previously is really simple too. What I'm really trying to get by is driving 200 miles just to get an engine serial number to order parts! I will be replacing the S-belt, and all pulleys with either the hydraulic or manual tensioner. I'm still undecidedon the tensioner replacement. I will do a brake and radiator flush while I have the car, and flush the tranny too if I have the time.

From my perspective and "anal-retentive" attitude, it looks like a long drive this weekend (but I do get to see my grandsons so it's worth it).

I have the leftover belt and tensioner from my change on the 2001 V70, AND WILL SEE IF THIS FITS AND WILL REPORT THE RESULTS. My next question is: Is the hydraulic tensioner powered by engine oil pressure, or is it a "stand alone" system?

Jerry
01 V70 T5a

Both tensioners are "stand alone" units. Compressing the hydraulic tensioner takes about 20 minutes which you can do ahead of time. Use a finishing nail to pin it in the locked position.

Flushing the tranny takes about 30 minutes and 3 gallon jugs marked at 2qt intervals. Oh, and a long necked funnel and clear 1/2in tubing about 5 feet long.

IPD has a cam locking tool which can be helpful.

Klaus
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Common sense trumps a PhD