1997 Volvo 850 GLT (B5254T), Automatic, 177K miles

This car does not go reverse. Only goes forward. Probably stuck on 3rd gear.

Here is what happened -
This car was driving fine until last evening. could not reverse from shopping complex. sounds like gear is engaging on reverse but does not move. I could push the car front and back only 2 to 3 inches at neutral gear position which feels like car is in park position. A real slow engine rev at reverse suddenly reversed car and locked the wheels. Felt like car went to park position while going back. Forward gear worked (D Position) but felt like it is in 3rd gear. Somehow managed come back home (2 miles) without stopping and changing gear.

I moved the gear 15-20 times but it did not help.
No flashing up arrow.
ATF level is good and color is good. (changed last year)
Reverse light comes up when gear in on reverse.
Can start car on neutral and park position.

Did little bit of reading but it does not sound like PNP switch.

Any hope for this transmission? Cleaning/Changing PNP switch will help?

Thanks in advance.
Mainak

1997 Volvo 850 GLT (B5254T), Automatic, 177K miles

Beg, borrow, or steal a scanner! Check that the CEL and upshift arrow light up on the cluster by turning the key to pos II.

Try reverse again, this time move the lever ever so slightly towards D. It really could be the PNP switch, or a messed up linkage.

Klaus
--
Common sense trumps a PhD

Klaus,

Thanks for the tip. I scanned and there is no code set. 1997 car and it has no other diag port under hood.

Update:

Checked both rear wheels and they move freely in both direction.

On jack stand with both front wheels up I can rotate both wheels front/back on neutral.

Started car and put it on reverse both wheel started rotating in forward direction where it should rotate in reverse direction. On forward (D) gear it rotates in forward direction but keeps on braking due to trac. Turned off trac tires rotate smoothly but I head grinding noise. Now I put in reverse again after braking and wheels start to rotate in reverse. Tried it couple of times and wheels are rotating in right direction but I hear grinding noise on both direction.

Took the car out of jack stand and now it goes forward and backward without any problem. Still hear the grinding noise but not that loud like running on jack stand. I need to hear carefully with windows open.

Any one has idea what happened?
Thinking of adding lucas stop slip (24 oz). Any comment?

Thanks,

Mainak

Much better diagnostics!! I like the jackstand method, and of course there are no nice little black boxes after 1995.

I wonder if the TRKS is acting up? This will not be caught by a general scan tool. Can you try to isolate the origin of the grinding noise? Could a caliper be stuck?

The tranny sounds good to me, and if a caliper is stuck it might be enough of a drag to keep the engine from shifting to 4th. Drive it around the block and check the heat on all 4 wheels.

Klaus
--
Common sense trumps a PhD

Klaus,

I was curious and drained about 4QT ATF and added new 4QT. Checked level. Yes old ATF looks really dark. I did not realize it is not in good condition from dip stick. Planning to change all of it in the weekend.

Now the car shifts better. Almost cannot feel shifting. I do not see any hesitation during normal acceleration. I have no intension to check hard acceleration at this time.

Grinding noise is loud on 1st gear. Noise goes down immediately when car shifts up to 2nd. Noise on 3rd is suppressed by engine and road noise.

Drove about 30 miles combined highway and local and I am feeling noise has come down a lot.

Reverse gear works but two times I felt vibration. Felt like gear disengaged or wheel locked for 1 second.

I am sure noise is not from any wheel as it changes with gear change. May be transmission already got damaged early when it was not backing up and locked up.

Any idea what is wrong? Is there a easy fix?

Thank you,

Mainak

I'd look at the fluid and see if any metal present...If not it's a possible gear
problem which as Klus stated it's less costly to replace with used one. BTW
make sure you grab the torque converter. Fill T/C with fluid before install and make sure it's seated all the way onto the pump shaft.

Normally I advise against dropping the tranny drain plug. I think your case is warranted. Check the drained fluid for metal contaminants, you should be able to feel it if it is there.
Measure the amount of fluid and add the same amount back in before flushing the tranny with the remaining fluid.

If it is a real tranny problem, or a slipped differential gear, then you will need a new/used tranny. A rebuild costs more than a good used one from a reputable yard.

Klaus
--
Common sense trumps a PhD

Good idea. I am planning flush with a cheap ATF then flush again soon with the better quality ATF if transmission feels better and usable.

Where is the drain bolt? I looked for it and think I need to take off front left wheel off then fold the plastic to access it. Can you confirm? If you have a picture anywhere post it or email me. I looked in the Hynes manual but it is not very clear. If the weather is good I want to try in the weekend.

What ATF do you normally recommend which may be locally available?

Thanks again.

Mainak

This first page should help a lot:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8767&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

Klaus
--
Common sense trumps a PhD

Flushed the ATF. Car runns ok Driven around 200 miles but I hear the grinding noise on 1st gear and reverse but noise has come down a lot. Did not lock up on reverse yet but I can feel reverse is still not normal. Once in a while it stops and need to press gas padal a little. Same thing on drive. Sometimes need to press gas to go forward.

Thank you Klaus for all your help.

Mainak