I can't find anything about the service indicator in my owners manual. I bought the car at 72,xxx miles. It now has 77,xxx and I still haven't seen the indicator illuminate. (I changed the oil and filter at 75,xxx anyway.) Does anyone know when i can expect to see the indicator? Also, how do I reset it once it illuminates?

Do a search for reseting the service light, it is easy to do. If you are using synthetic oil, the factory interval is 7500 miles, 3000 is much too soon.
If you are using fossil fuel oil, stop and change to synthetic at the next oil change.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.

Thanks again, Klaus.

We bought the car last summer from a Volvo dealer not far from here. It was a trade-in and appeared to be in really good shape. The car fax was clean and I could see that the same person owned it from new. They had an invoice listing what they did in the back shop in prep for resale. It said they put in Castrol Syntec Blend. So when I changed the oil I went with the same. Not knowing for sure what has been used for the first 72,000 miles, my thinking was to go with the blend for the first few changes, then maybe convert to full synthetic. I may even wait until it's almost timing belt time to convert, that way if one of the front end (excuse me - RH end) seals start leaking, I will have to go in there anyway to R&R the belt and replace the seal(s) at the same time.

BTW - my numbers in the original post were a bit off: Purchase at 72,000; First oil change at 75,800; second oil change at 79,445 (today).

My wife does a lot of short-haul driving in it so I feel compelled to change the oil fairly frequently. If I do go full synthetic maybe I'll stretch those intervals somewhat.

Don't wait for the 105K timing belt change to use good engine oil. This is not a cast iron block that relies on oil splash technology, it has oil nozzles that spray up into the cylinder walls for complete lubrication. At 80K, I doubt that any seals are so completely coated with sludge that the seals dried out. Go ahead and make the switch, the engine will love it. Especially if it is lugged around town all of the time.
Check the manual for viscosity.
Dealers use "blend"s because it is cheaper, not better. They will love it when a car comes in with a clogged oil separator; first, the replace the leaking seals, then a few months later they charge you again for replacing the oil spearator because the seals are leaking again.
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.

I'll take that to heart.

I meant to ask earlier - What about crankcase ventilation maintenance on these things? Is there a "flametrap" like on the red blocks or anything that needs occasional cleaning? Does the oil filler jiggle test work on a turbocharged engine?

No flame trap on turbos. But there is an oil separator which will stay clean with synthetic oils, unfortunately the vacuum lines will get old and crack at around the 10year mark. One of the lines goes to the intake side of the turbo and that nipple can get clogged at close to 120K.
The loose dancing oil cap is gone, the dipstick with a little vacuum is still a valid test. By the time the oil cap rattles, the engine is toast!
Steal the car from your wife once in a while and get the oil hot :)
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My name is Klaus and I am a V ♂ lv ♂ holic.