I apologize in advance for the length of this, but technical problems require technical explanations.

Some time ago I installed a VDO boost gauge and pod in my 1998 V70 T-5M. I ran the vacuum tubing from the vacuum tree up to the A-Pillar along with the electrical wiring for the gauge lamp. I installed the pod, then connected the wiring and tube to the gauge and pushed the gauge into the pod. The fit was snug enough that I chose not to use the included bracket. I felt that this would make a later removal much easier, if I had to replace the gauge lamp or remove the pod in order to remove the upper facia. My prescience was rewarded, when my AC evaporator needed to be replaced, which required a field stripping of the entire front of the cockpit by my indie. But, that is another story.

Following that replacement and the reinstallation of the upper facia, pod and gauge, it seemed that the boost indication was less responsive than prior to the removal. When I pulled the gauge from the pod, I could see that the plastic vacuum tube had crimped where it entered the brass fitting on the back of the gauge. From the location and orientation of the crimp, it appeared that the tube had been jammed against the curved portion of the back wall of the pod. When I pulled the gauge out of the pod about an inch, boost readings were much more responsive in speed and amplitude. When I again seated the gauge, the readings again became less responsive. It seemed clear that seating the gauge was crimping the vacuum line and affecting the readings … not unlike crimping a garden hose.

That caused me to find my trusty tape measure to check distances. Here is what I found:
• The vacuum fitting is located at the 6 o’clock position on the back of the gauge and near the outside edge.
• The distance from the faceplate of the gauge to the tip of the brass fitting is about 3 inches.
• The distance from the face of the pod to the curving pod back wall at the 6 o’clock position of the brass fitting is also about 3 inches.

I was now sure that there is insufficient space for the stiff plastic vacuum line to make the curve dictated by the shape of the pod back wall at that location. As the gauge is seated, the pod back wall forces the vacuum line to bend and crimp shut.

While VDO manufactures the gauge, I don’t think that they make the pod. When IPD mated the VDO gauge to IPD pod, it seems that they overlooked this potential problem of tubing bend radius and gauge-to-pod clearances.

I now keep the gauge pulled out about an inch in order to get accurate readings, but it is very unsightly. I plan to replace the tubing, but I fear that it will result in the same problem for the same reason.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? Is there a fix? Is IPD reading this?

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Dave in Virginia; 1998 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars, Rocha ABS Control Unit, Koni FDS Struts and Shocks/// 1988 245 DL Wagon// 1967 MGB Roadster

I would copy this very nice post and send it as an Email to IPD. Then look around for a vacuum elbow, 90 degree, to mate the line to the gauge.

Once the line gets a crimp, it is toast. Is there enough line to cut it at the crimp point and then install an elbow?
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

I received a reply from Scott Hart at IPD. He admitted that it was a tight fit, but said that he had not received any customer feedback with problems similar to mine.

As I was replying to Scott's e-mail, I had an epiphany:

The current gauge has a range of 30" Hg to 15 PSI. The scale is symmetrical around the "0" reading, which is at 12 o'clock. In that configuration, the nipple is at 6 o'clock and is affected by the pod back wall, as I described.

However, some upcoming mods (Stage III???) may take me above 15 PSI boost, so I bought a 30" Hg to 25 PSI gauge from IPD, which is yet to be installed. That increased positive boost scaling drove the "0" reading to about 11 o'clock, with the nipple remaining at 6 o'clock.

From a visual ergonomics standpoint, I would prefer the "0" reading to be at 12 0'clock. In that way, with a quick glance I know if I am in positive or negative boost without actually having to read a number on the faceplate. I can place the "0" at 12 o'clock by simply rotating the gauge clockwise in the pod. Doing that will take the nipple to about 7 o'clock, which would buy me more clearance from the back wall of the pod.

OK, so the word "TURBO" will be slanted, but who cares.
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Dave in Virginia; 1998 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars, Rocha ABS Control Unit, Koni FDS Struts and Shocks/// 1988 245 DL Wagon// 1967 MGB Roadster

LOL TURBO at an angle will drive you bonkers!

Once that vacuum tube was crinked after the re-install, it was compromised and will easily bend again with the slightest pressure.

Watch out for the cops!
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My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.

Fret not. The new gauge will get new tubing.

As for the slanting "TURBO" ... we shall see.
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Dave in Virginia; 1998 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars, Rocha ABS Control Unit, Koni FDS Struts and Shocks/// 1988 245 DL Wagon// 1967 MGB Roadster

Somehow I knew that Klaus would be the first to see this and reply.

Yep, Step 2 is sending the text to IPD.

A 90 deg elbow would seem to be the logical fix. Perhaps IPD will begin including this part in the installation kit.

After I posted, I thought of a good test to prove my theory. Take an uninstalled pod. Take a boost gauge and install a small length of vacuum tubing. Insert the gauge into the pod, ensuring the correct "UP" orientation and have a look in from the A-Pillar side. That should tell the story.
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Dave in Virginia; 1998 V70 T5(M): IPD MOTRONIC+ ECU Upgrade, Sport Muffler, IPD Strut Tower Brace; VDO Boost Gauge, IPD Anti-Sway Bars, Rocha ABS Control Unit, Koni FDS Struts and Shocks/// 1988 245 DL Wagon// 1967 MGB Roadster