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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

...so...

I stumbled over this car for cheap not running with good compression and a newer timing belt. I figured I've owned several sweedish snowmobiles this will be no problem.. well it's becoming a problem.

It cranks, has spark, has fuel pressure. The check engine light does not come on at all (but it may be the bulb for all I know) but the service light and other appropriate idiots do show. It enters diganostic for the ignition on terminal 6 and showed sporadic crank position sensor, so I replaced with a known good one... no change. I also replaced the cam sensor with a known good one just because I had one, no change.

the most troubling symptom is that it will not enter diagnostic on terminal 2: I get a weak LED when the cable is plugged in. The LED lights fully when I press the button but then does nothing, it just goes back to weakly on. It won't enter any of the three modes. I swapped the middle computer with another one, no change. I have checked/cleaned all the grounds I can find (the bunch in front of the battery and the black wire from the CPU box to the engine), no change.

it does weakly fire one and sometimes two holes on cranking.. enough to hear a "whump" out of the exhaust but not enough to kick it. It has fired up once since I've had it, first key of the day, it ran for two seconds then it immediately died and went back to business as usual...

even more confusing, it won't fire on a squirt of ether, even tho it's got brand new plugs, cap and rotor, and shows spark at the HT lead

I'm in cleveland. It's cold. certainly not too cold for volvos, my other two sweedish snowmobiles merrily start every day. I've got the battery topped with a charger. It SHOULD start....

any ideas? It's driving me bananas. Anyone seen the diagnostic not work on terminal 2? how did you fix it?








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

Hi, can it be the immobilizer? Me the weak OBD LED means that I haven't used the key in separate VDO immobilizer. Thus not all power is available where it should.
br Tapsa
2x850-94








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

The immobilizer you're referring to, I assume, is the stupid little round extra key you have to stick in the dashboard? This car doesn't have it.

My mother had one for a while on an 850 originally purchased in germany. It stopped working, and so did her car. It took two weeks to get the proper parts to fix. Pain in the ass.








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

How's the coil? Nice and new?
--
'97 855na, Mobil 1, K&N, various IPD's and eBay's








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

I've become a fan of chasing the ground points down to be sure they're not weak. There's a ground strip just in front of the battery that showed a lot of corrosion on my '94 and was the likely culprit of my recent problems--clean the hell out of it with 220 grit and tighten the connectors. I also saw a paragraph in either Mitchell's or Alldata that described a similar procedure for the DTC readout box A&B itself....pull it apart and be sure there's no corrosion in the connections underneath it....








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

If the plugs aren't wet after a start attempt, could you have a bad injector relay?
Could the alternator have a bad diode board? or loose wire?
--
My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

The last time I had that diagnostic problem, I fixed it by closing the driver's door :) All doors and trunk need to be closed for some reason.

Does it still have compression? If not, that 3 second start could have caused the lawnmower syndrum. The engine will turn over very easily, so just crank it for 2-3 minutes.

If it has compression, check the voltage from the coil.

Klaus
--
My name is Klaus and I am a Volvoholic.








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93 850 crank/no start test lead 2 doesn't work 850

... interesting.. I tried doors shut no dice. Still weak LED and no response..

It doesn't seem to crank easy it sounds same as when I ran the compression test.

I can't find anything else on the car that doesn't work that might point me in the right direction... the transmission indicators function correctly, the info dash works, the keyless entry works... I don't think there could be any serious wiring issue, but I'm not sure how I'd attack it anyway.. the chiltons is vauge at best, has diagrams but not colors or useful connector pinouts...

in my mind this has to be something stupid... but even with a running '94 sitting right here to compare with I haven't been able to figure this out







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