Volvo AWD Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 4/2006

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Rear main seal replacement procedure

posted by  db on  Fri Jan 2 06:26 CST 2009
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Thu Aug 19 14:50 CST 2010
[RELATED]

Anyone have a link to the procedure on how to DIY the rear main seal? I remember it posted here a while ago, but cannot find it via the search function.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    Rear main seal replacement procedure

    posted by  KlausC on  Fri Jan 2 10:44 CST 2009
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Most shops just remove the driver side suspension, both axles, put the car on a lift and drop the subframe just enough to get the tranny unbolted from the engine. It is a 9 hour billable task, but most good shops will do it in 5-6 hours.
    If your car is just weeping oil, you might want to investigate replacing the oil separator and/or the PCV piping to releve the crank pressure.

    Klaus
    --
    Volvoless. Sold the R. There is now a void...








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Rear main seal replacement procedure

      posted by  db on  Sat Jan 3 06:48 CST 2009
      Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
      last visit: Thu Aug 19 14:50 CST 2010
      [RELATED]

      Yeah, good idea. It just started leaking oil and I checked to see if there is a vacuum while warm and running at the dipstick. I pulled it out and it was pushing air out the dipstick tube. Tells me the PCV and or tubes going to/from it are plugged. I removed the oil trap about 150K ago (it's and N.A.). I am going to pull it apart and replace the separator and tubes/elbows as soon as the parts come in. I am hoping that I didn't blow my rear main seal. I just hit 250K with it too!








      •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

        Rear main seal replacement procedure

        posted by  KlausC on  Sat Jan 3 07:25 CST 2009
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        Check the small lines going to the vacuum tree and see if any are blocked.

        People have had luck changing the PCV system. It should delay the RMS replacement and also save the cam seal. It is a 5 hour job to replace the oil separator box, leave the injectors in the manifold if you can.

        I used a screwdriver to clean out the crud in the hole in the block where the plastic box fits into it. Try not to scratch the block.

        The manifold has a support that bolts to it next to the bolt for the dipstick. Make sure the bottom support bolt is loose before trying to put the mani back on and then tighten the top bolt before you tighten the bottom bolt.

        Do NOT overtighten the injector rail 2 screws if you take them off. They torque at 1 lb/ft, just snug.

        Klaus
        --
        Volvoless. Sold the R. There is now a void...








        •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

          Rear main seal replacement procedure

          posted by  db on  Wed Jan 7 09:17 CST 2009
          Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
          last visit: Thu Aug 19 14:50 CST 2010
          [RELATED]

          Just got done with replacing the oil separator and cleaning out the tubes or replacing them. at 250K, it wasn't as bad as I thought. Nothing was completely plugged up, though the lines were gunked and coked pretty bad. We'll see if that solves my oil leak problem, but I'm not hopeful as I already see a few drops under the car...though that could be from all the oil that leaked out already. I did start the car up and let it warm up. I didn't feel any pressure out the dipstick tube, but there wasn't a vacuum there either. Is that normal? BTW, thanks for the tips!








          •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

            Rear main seal replacement procedure

            posted by  KlausC on  Wed Jan 7 09:36 CST 2009
            Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
            last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Give it a week or 2 to dry up, if it does. The finger on the dipstick is fallable because the vacuum pressure is so small in the crankcase. What you don't want to feel is any pressure, ever.
            Your engine is now very happy to be breathing correctly.

            Klaus
            --
            Volvoless. Sold the R. There is now a void...







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.