We had a little shunt with our 2005 s80; everybody fine, but the impact broke the threaded portion of the driver-side inner tie rod. How tough is this to replace? (I've done a few of these on our old 240s, so I understand the basics, but have never done a FWD set-up). Any special tools required, or just a large pair of channel-locks? FWIW, I have appropriate jack-stands, etc.

End link for the front bar is also bent,so that's going to be replaced too--I was thinking of using the IPD replacements. Any BTDTs on these?

The outer tie-rod end and the lower ball joint look good, but I am thinking of replacing those too just to be on the safe side. Any show-stoppers to watch out for with these?

Of course, an alignment (and paint,etc.) will follow . . . .

Thanks in advance for your insights and advice!

Steve A-

Hi, I haven't actually removed them on mine (I had to repalace the steering rack which came with inner tie rods already on it) but here's a few things that might help. IF, I say IF the inners are the same as on an early 1999, The socket side of the inner tie rod screws right into the rack/piston and has wrench flats as you've probably seen. They are very narrow, and will require a thin (1/4" thick) wrench to fit on them. I think it's a 32mm, but I really don't remember now. Lisle makes a special "wrench" for these type of tie rods with interchangeable bits to fit different sized tie rods. These kits are about $130 and do a decent job. I got mine on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. Snap-on and probably Mac makes them too. You'll need to counter hold the steering rack/piston or the torque could break the pinion gear inside the rack casing. When you extend the rack by turning the steering wheel for better access, and remove the boot, you'll notice a small hole on the underside of the rack/piston. I THINK that there is a Volvo tool or special spanner that uses this hole in some manner to counterhold. Like I said, I stopped investigating it when I realised my new rack already had tie rods on it, so this is conjecture here, but I'm pretty sure it needs to be counterheld somehow to avoid damage to the steering rack. Other than that, I think everything else is pretty straight forward. The flat rate time for the job is only about a half hour a side for replacement so it must be pretty easy with the right tools and experience. Some of the inner-to-outer rod bolts can be pretty tight and rusted on and the inner end of the boot on the drivers side looks a little difficult to get to as well. good luck. Post back how it went!

Thanks for the reply. I did the job last Saturday. R&R of the inner tie rod was relatively easy--very similar to same job on our 240s, but with a better place to "counter-hold" the rack. I used a 15" open-end adjustable ("Crescent")wrench on the tie rod end; it worked well.

I ended up replacing the outer tie rod end too--pretty "banana-ed" from the impact.

The dealer had the OEM sway-bar down-links in stock--and gave me a pretty good deal too--so used those for now (may go with IPD or larger QBM units if/when these fail in the future).

Strut and control arm looked good, but will confirm that when I get it on a lift.

Post-MX test drive went real well--tracked straight, felt nice and solid, no new noises. In fact, it seemed a little quieter, so I might have been needing to replace at least one of the sway-bar down-links anyways.

It goes in tomorrow PM for a final safety check and an alignment, then on to the body work next week. It's been pretty interesting how Volvo put the car together.

Still, we consider ourselves lucky that we could make this a learning--instead of a healing--experience!

Thanks again, and best regards,

Steve A-

Glad it went well for you! Just curious though, how did you counterhold the rack?

A "special" wrench I borrowed from one of the mechanics at the Ft. Eustis auto craft shop. Not sure what it was called, but looked a lot like a small-headed pipe wrench with a long handle.

Next challenge may be a bent strut on that same side; I have about 1/8" (3mm) less clearance between the tire sidewall and the strut tube on the driver's side than on the passenger side. Possible that the steering knuckle and strut could have been knocked out of calibration, but we'll see.

If the left strut is bent, then I guess I'll replace both as the car has 40K+ miles on it. Probably do both spring seats too "while I'm in there" ;^)

Best,

Steve A-