Re my 850 GLT w/ 145,000 (original seals, including RMS)

My mechanics have this tendency to overfill by about .5 quarts unless I remember to tell them to stop at 6 quarts. I think they have some stupid database that tells them the total capacity is 7, or they are just on the slow end of the spectrum. In any event, will slightly overfilling be hard on the seals in the long run? i.e., should I bother draining off a little? Annoys the *&*# out of me, but I'm moving soon & will have different options (God help you if you want an honest AND competent mechanic in Santa Cruz. if anyone knows a good independent near Chico, CA, let me know!).

Thanks!
Paul
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1982 240 DL (265K) , 1996 850 GLT (139K)

As easy as it is to change the oil yourself, why not? Filters from FCP are only $40 for a case of ten, plus $2 for 10 crush washers. That should last you a few years. Save a painter's five gallon bucket to keep the used oil in, and bring it to a recycle place once in a while.

I find that using the "expensive" Mobile 1, I can change the filter only at 5K miles and at 10K flush the oil sump with new oil and filter.

DIY and always have the correct amount of oil in the sump. 1/2 quart is borderline unsafe for your engine. Pull out the dipstick and check to make sure there is a little bit of suction when the engine is at idle, If there is a small amount of pressure, change your oil separator and PCV system.

Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)

Popular opinion is that if the oil is too high, the crankshaft whips it up producing a froth (full of air bubbles) that gets sucked into the oil system instead of just (incompressible, pure) liquid oil. This froth (being full of air) is compressible, and you both lose oil pressure and lubrication in the critical spots in the engine -- i.e., parts like cam lobes become oil starved.

It's best to remove the excess oil -- you might be able to do that through the dipstick tube using a variety of suction devices (hand pumped and electrical pumped), commonly sold in chandleries (boating supply stores), to change the oil in inboard marine engines. These engines commonly have a sump drain that can't be reached (in the bilge), so the accepted technique is to suck the old oil out of the dipstick tube -- these devices have a long, narrow tube for that purpose.

Interestingly, this is also the proper technique in Mercedes-Benz dealer service departments for their engines -- although it does work in my old M-Bs (M110, M201 and M203 engines), it doesn't completely work in the Volvo (red block) engine -- there's some obstruction that prevents the inserted tube from going all the way down, like in the MBs. But it should get far enough down to suck out the top 1/2 qt or so.
This is a lot easier than opening the drain plug, right? :-)

Good luck.

Good idea--way easier this way than dealing with the plug. Thanks.

Paul
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1982 240 DL (265K) , 1996 850 GLT (139K)

another method is to drop the filter. i heard that the filter and pipe above it hold roughly a quart. you can replace the filter and top off if necessary.

i think the turbo 850's take 7 quarts if they are completely dry. the turbo lines dont drain well during an ordinary oil change and i guess the extra quart is held in the smaller diameter passages.

all these jiffy/quick lube joints make a bad name for themselves dont they?...

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-woodsytf '95 850 wagon 160k

>>all these jiffy/quick lube joints make a bad name for themselves dont they?...

yeah they do. i'd already put about 500 miles on it before checking (urgent road trip, didn't even want to think about it). maybe coincidental, but now I see a little sludge building up near the distributor cap--can't tell if it's from a leaking seal/gasket or not at this point.

paul
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1982 240 DL (265K) , 1996 850 GLT (139K)