As 140K and an 1100 mile (roundtrip) drive are both on the horizon, now seemed like a good time to change the timing belt and tensioner. I've heard that the replacement interval can be stretched on the new style belts...but there is no record of when it was last changed.

The Bay 13 instructions seem very complete. Unfortunately, they only address the hydraulic tensioner. There is also not a ton of information in the brickboard archives on the mechanical tensioner. Is it so straightforward that there just are not many questions? Are they supposed to be readjusted after 500 miles like the tensioner on redblocks?

Thanks,
-Nate

Thank you for the responses and advice. The tensioner was indeed mechanical instead of hydraulic. There was definitely more life left on the belt and tensioner, they both felt decent. Everything is back together and runs like it should.

Thanks again.

-Nate

Check out this link - for good instructions.

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ic/ic60326.htm

Cheers, Phil
--
'98 N/A S70 199000 Klm

I am surprised that your 1998 has a mechanical tensioner. They get replaced every 105K miles, along with the belt.
The hydraulic tensioner gets replaced at 140K, the belt every 70K.

Klaus
--
The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are a 95 854T and a 98 V70R :)

FCP Groton lists the cutoff number to be 1266127. My engine number is 1387661, which should fall into the new style. I felt lucky to break enough ice off the hood to read the engine number, pulling the timing cover to confirm was out of the question. Luckily the dealer isn't too far down the road if I'm wrong.

Once this one is done, the 100K change interval will be followed. There isn't the usual sticker on the timing cover showing when it was last changed. The service records I have are from 2002-on, and don't show a timing belt change. Hopefully the belt is well within its service life, but there's no way to know for sure. Changing belts early will be a small price to pay for a little peace of mind (unless things go horribly wrong during the change).

They do not require any further attention once installed properly. Installing them on the other hand is not a simple bolt up deal.

Once you have the belt and tensioner installed you will need to adjust the tensioner. It has a hex fitting in it that is what you twist to set the tension. If you look at it you will see that there is a finger that sticks up in the middle and a set of ears that point straight up and provide a window for that finger to pass through as you tension it via the hex head fitting.

So, tighten the retaining bolt head until it is just snug and then back it off enough to allow the tensioner to rotate as you tension it.
While holding the bolt with one wrench take another and rotate the hex fitting and adjusting arm counterclockwise until it passes through the window from left to right.
With it on the otherside of the window (the right side) now switch directions on the hex and rotate it clockwise until the arm comes back into the window.
With it in the window go ahead and tighten it up.
Lastly with the belt all tensioned up properly pull on the belt between the water pump pulley and the exhaust cam, the tensioner arm should compress and then spring back into place when you release it.

Go slow and don't be suprised if it takes you a couple of times to get it right. Mind you that the setting on the arm inside of the window it temperature dependent, setting it dead nuts in the middle of the window is for approximately 70 degrees or so. If it is warmer or colder out the arm should line up more to the left (colder) or more to the right (warmer). The actual Volvo instructions will have pictures and specs on this stuff. I live in sunny California so it is not a concern for me.


Mark

Thank you for the detailed instructions...that definitely isn't a procedure that can just be stumbled through.