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1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Fri Aug 10 11:27 CST 2007 [RELATED]

I have a 1998 S 70 w/165K miles. The AC works intermitently. First happened over a year ago and then went nearly a year before it started doing regularly.

It works great until it just starts blowing hot air. Will sometimes work again after letting it sit and occassionaly after turning off I get it to work again.

I had the "freon" charged...it was just a bit low...that did not help.

Any ideas of where to look first?

We are taking a trip in early Sept and I want it working again by then.

Thanks...Tom R








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    1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

    posted by  TomL on  Sat Aug 11 03:57 CST 2007
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Sun Jul 25 18:24 CST 2010
    [RELATED]

    Measure the gap between the compressor clutch surfaces. If it is .030 or greater it is too large. The clutch won't engage when temperatures get hot. Shims can be removed to close up the gap to about .015. There was a posting recently where someone used plastic shims to accomplish the same thing but I have not tried it. Search the archives for information on AC compressor clutch adjustment.
    If you are mechanically capable respond to my email and I will send you the removal/adjustment procedure.
    TomL77@rochester.rr.com
    --
    Tom 69-1800S, 72-1800ES, 96-850T,2000-S70 GLT-SE








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      1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

      posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Sat Aug 11 04:19 CST 2007 [RELATED]

      Thanks Tom...I finally got on to Volvo Spped and found a thread with pictures on the "correct" fix by removing shims inside the clutch plate and the "bread bag" clip fix.

      I went out and measured my "gap" and it was larger than my largest feeler guage...about 9mm vs the 4mm that it supossedly sb.

      However, it is a bit difficult to get at...seems you need to take off the passenger front wheel and the wheelwell liner...and probably some type of lift.

      What I will likely do is to take it to a non-Volvo dealer...maybe an AC shop...and show them the narrative of the issue and the pictures of the fix.

      Am I missing something...other say the bread clips (I would use a thin metal shim shaped to the similar size of the "bread clips") procedure should only take a few minutes? Looks like a bit more than that to me?

      Thanks...does seem wrong the Volvo dealers don't know (or don't tell) of the fix and just want to install a new compressor w/clutch.

      Tom R in Two Harbors, MN








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    1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

    posted by  KlausC on  Fri Aug 10 14:28 CST 2007
    Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
    [RELATED]

    Look here first:

    http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=1203377

    Klaus
    --
    Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)








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      1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

      posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Sat Aug 11 02:27 CST 2007 [RELATED]

      Hi Klaus...I followed the link to Vovospeed and read the narrative. I could not get access to the pictures so I registered but did not get back the e-mail acknowledgement.

      I will go out and take a look at the clutch...not something I am familiar with.

      You said Volvo AC is same as other vehicles? In that case would it make much more sense to take to an AC specialist repair shop...vs the Volvo dealership. When I spoke with Volvo service with the symptoms they began talking about condenser/evaporator, etc. Did not sound like they knew the commom clutch issue.

      I earlier took to a small "foreign" car repair shop and they filled the "freon". I think they mean well but may not have enough volume to know the issues?

      I see on line that a compressor w/clutch is $415 OEM new...is the clutch sold separately?

      w/165K miles I am willing to do some basic stuff to fix car...but I need detail steps w/pics to do so. I did the ABS brake module remove/repair by sending to the guy in California. That removal/replacement went well because he had such good detail pics on line.

      Thanks for your help...and comments on the above questions would be appreciated. Tom R in Two Harbors, MN

      P.S. Is there an issue w/Volvospeed registration?








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        1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

        posted by  KlausC on  Sat Aug 11 04:24 CST 2007
        Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
        last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        It takes a day to register with volvospeed, keeps out the computer generated garbage.
        Yes, an automotive AC shop can diagnose your problem easily. They can also do a pressure test for leaks, and are competent to move the shims on the clutch. The clutch is replaceable as a separate unit from the compressor.
        The VS "fix" using 3 plastic bread bag fasteners(?) is a great solution for those on a budget!

        Klaus
        --
        Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)








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          1998 S 70 AC Problem S70

          posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Sat Aug 11 04:34 CST 2007 [RELATED]

          Thanks Klaus...gap is over 9mm. Appears a bit of work to remove wheel/liner to get at the clutch? Alos, I think I would use a metal equivalent to the "bread clip"? Probably makes to most sense to take to a non Volvo dealer...AC shop and show them the gap and let them confirm and fix. Thanks...Tom R in Two Harbors, MN

          P.S. I can't believe that my Volvo deal"er service does not suggest this as the issue. Maybe because they only "replace stuff...and "repair" little!








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            Dealers only R&R S70

            posted by  KlausC on  Sat Aug 11 06:28 CST 2007
            Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
            last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
            [RELATED]

            Remove and replace is much faster than remove/repair/replace. Besides, they make more money on the new part.
            I takes at least 20 minutes to remove the clutch and move the shims, so the dealers charge you for a new compressor & clutch, plus r134a, plus other ac parts which were not needed.
            An AC shop will take off the clutch, move the shims, and test the AC. If they need to evacuate the system for another problem, make sure they replace the receiver/dryer and the expansion valve at the same time.

            Adding the plastic shims is easy. Take the front wheel off, move the flap out of the way, and shove them in. An AC shop will not do that, because it is not permanent. If I were a shop, I wouldn't do that either. Just don't go to a store and get caught removing tags from loaves of bread :)


            Klaus
            --
            Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)








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              Dealers only R&R S70

              posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Sat Aug 11 08:01 CST 2007 [RELATED]

              Klaus...you talked me into it. I will attack in the AM tomorrow.

              Just to confirm...I have a 98 S70 T5 Manual Trans. As I see it...it is way too tight to get to the clutch from above...I plan on jacking up the passenger side and removing the tire (after blocking both the rears and the front.

              I will then remove the many screws that apear to hold down the fender liner which I am hoping will then give me access to the clutch. I am goint to try and find some of the bread clips...but can I substitute any other material with the needed thickness? My gap appears to measure out at about .09MM+ and I intend to have it end up in generally the .03-.04mm range?

              Also, I assume any tough glue should work? I plan on fitting all three clips and then releasing the plate to test the Gap before glueing. When the gap is OK I will put small amount of glue on the clips and insert them and then release the clutch plate.


              Sound OK to you? BTW...would a tin can work for the clips? Cut to size...or is the metal an issue?

              Thanks...Tom R...I will post after done.







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                Dealers only R&R S70

                posted by  KlausC on  Sat Aug 11 10:58 CST 2007
                Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
                last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014
                [RELATED]

                All right :)

                Take a look at the bottom picture of this page, it shows the flap:

                http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

                Very easy to do.
                Now, a beer can is probably too thin, unless you bend it enough to get 3 or 4 layers. At least you can measure the thickness and get exactly what you want, the beer goes into a glass for later :)

                You may keep the glass handy, it shouldn't get cold. It is a simple job.

                Klaus
                --
                Please answer, we need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)








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                  Dealers only R&R S70

                  posted by  someone claiming to be Tom R on  Sun Aug 12 06:14 CST 2007 [RELATED]

                  Hi Klaus...well the gap is now about .04mm! But my beer was quite warm by the time I finished. I can learn but it does take awhile.

                  I ended up using the black plastic cover material from a Folger plastic coffee can. It appeared to be about .04-.05mm. I got bread clip last night but I believe there is more than one thickness. The ones I got were abour .09mm thick and when I tried one there was NO gap. The plastic cover worked well and I did crazy glue them.

                  I also ended up getting to the clutch by removing the front black "pan" that spans the front end underneath tieing into the air dam. Had relatively good access. I also tried to go to an auto parts store to see if they had workable metal shims that I could use...no luck.

                  Thanks for tou rhelp...we will now have to test in high temperatures over time. It always worked for awhile.

                  Is there some type of temperature switch/sensor that could be the problem if this does not work?

                  As an aside...the first time it blew hot air was over a year ago on a day the temps were 100+. It then did not do it again until this summer and now does it whenever it is say 90+.

                  Thanks Again...Tom R in Two Harbors







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