Volvo AWD S70 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 8/2007 S70 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

98 S70 suspension advice needed S70 1998

Sorry in advance for the long post...

I have a 98 S70 with 113,000 miles (purchased in 2001 with 60,000 miles). The car has been making a rather unpleasant knocking noise when going over almost any size bump, even at low speeds. The local dealer has advised me that the right front spring seat needed to be replaced ($230). I took the car to an Midas and they said that the struts, strut mounts and tie rods (on both sides of the front end) need to be replaced (around $800, including 2 wheel alignment). Their pitch was that the labor was not much extra to do this all at the same time. They did not mention the spring seat at all.

Is the spring seat the same as the strut mount?

I plan to keep this car for at least another year and want to make sure I am spending my limited funds wisely. I have not replaced anything on the suspension other than a right front CV axel (?) and tires. I also had to replace the left front wheel bearing last year.

Should I just do the spring seat as the dealer suggests or take the plunge and do the struts, mounts and tie rods? Will new struts make for a "smoother" ride over bumps and holes in the road? Are there any brands that I should make sure they use?

Thanks for any advice on this.


FYI-This car a few other issues that I would like to fix eventually:
* front pass. door will not lock
* a/c evaporator is leaking (per a/c recharge leak test)
* driver door hinge make loud popping sound when opens and closes
* fuel door will not close












  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

    98 S70 suspension advice needed S70 1998

    The strut mounts do fail. I had thought this was the case with a 1997 850 w/110K miles, but found out that it was the sway bar end links ($60 pair).
    If it is the mount, then the strut needs to come off in order to replace it. You should look for an independent garage close to you that can do a better diagnosis than Midas. Your struts are probably good.
    What I did is have my kid push down on the fender to make the noise, while I was under the car looking for the source. As soon as I grabbed the link, the noise went away! Easy fix.
    The other stuff:
    pass door lock? Will the button not go down when the door is closed? Or the motor not working?

    Most AC evaporators develop leaks, just buy some cans of r134a and add it once in a while. The replacement of the evap is 10 hours of labor.
    Driver door hinge, buy a new door check strap if that is what is broken. Requires removing of the door panel and a torx combo tool.
    Fuel door, if the tab is bent, bend it back. If it needs a new spring to keep it closed, get a new spring. Easy fix.

    Klaus
    --
    Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.