So since I had to rent a car for a week while waiting for my new mechanical ignition part to come in, I want to go ahead and do the brake pads that need replacing. I haven't done this myself before so I could use any tips, but also need to check what I will have to order:

- front brake pads
- rear brake pads
- power brake bleeder from FCPgroton? (worth $50 I think?)
- fluid
- do i need the springs/hardware for sure?

How much brake fluid will I need?

How do I know if I should be doing the rotors as well?

I replaced pads only, front and rear, at 115k miles, then pads and rotors both at 230k. I would recommend replacing the hardware -- I had a rear brake dragging due to the pads binding on the retaining pins. You should get the power bleeder and flush the fluid annually -- you don't want to find out how expensive an ABS unit is. One quart is enough to flush the fluid on these cars.

'98 V70 5-speed 242k, '91, '88 240s, '69 164, '71 Mercedes, '21 & '42 Packards

Replacing pads and rotors have nothing to do with brake fluid. If you wish to flush the brake fluid, there is a blue synthetic which is perfect and can be purchased locally at any auto parts store - DOT 4 compliant.

You need to measure the front rotors for thickness to determine if they can be reground to smooth. The rear do not take much abuse and can go many more miles than the fronts. If the front rotors have a large rusty lip on the outside edge, more than 1mm, I would consider getting new rotors.

http://volvospeed.com/850fbrake1.php

A simple 7mm allen tool is needed to loosen the caliper slides. I use a hammer against the tool to bang it loose. Same with the caliper bolts. The hardest part is putting the caliper spring on - I use channel lock pliers and a long screwdriver to get enough leverage. Don't forget a coat hanger to hold the caliper to the spring.

The rear brakes should get new springs, the old ones get rusty. The rear calipers don't need to come off, they are exactly like to 850s.

If you use FCPGroton it will take a long time to ship. How about http://www.autohausaz.com/
If you get OEM rear pads, they have a shim builtin.

Klaus

Thanks for all the great advice! But frustratingly, I ended up having to put the old brake pads back on and everything back together with the intention of taking it in to the garage for the brake job. Everything is just too solidly rusted in place! I couldn't budge the caliper (lucky the old brake pads are so work they fit in) and no way I could get the caliper bracket off. So I admit defeat and here comes the credit card to pay for this it's going to be expensive as labor here is $100 to $150 an hour :(

Now I still have to see if I am brave enough to try the ignition replacement so I can actually start the car and drive to the garage!

Bummer. I had to really whack my rachet handle and put a few dents in it before the caliper bolts broke loose. Then I had a heck of a time getting the old rotors off. Used a hammer on them also. And I do NOT like using a hammer!!

Klaus
--
Please answer your responses. We need to know if the advice is good or bad. The 164 has a new home, all I am left with are 2 turbos :)

I've yet to work on my Volvo brakes. But on most cars, if your just replacing the pads, you don't need to do anything to the brake hydraulic system. So, you can probably get by without the power bleeder and brake fluid.

However, if it has been 2 years since your last brake fluid change, you should consider doing that anyway. And the power bleeder does make it rather simple to flush out the old fluid.

As for the rotors, I don't know if Volvo rotors can be machined. If they can, it would be a good idea to have it done. Or, if you think you'll own the car for a while, just buy new rotors and replace them. But save the old rotors. If the old ones can be machined, have it done, and keep them in the garage for the next change. New pads always do better with new or machined rotors.

Arg in the middle of the brake job now... can't get those darned bolts off the caliper bracket (the 15mm ones) !! I have soaked them in WD40 and hammered the ratchet, they're just not coming off.

The front rotors definitely have about 1mm or maybe 2-3mm rust border on them. I bought the new ones anticipating this because I don't know if they've ever been replaced, but now I can't do it! This is so frustrating, any more tips on getting the bolts out? (I don't have a blow torch and have already soaked the things in WD40 so I don't want to try heat..)

Took the day off work to do this and have gotten nowhere, I'm so frustrated!

Yes forgot to mention we have had the car 2 years and brake fluid has not been flushed in that time, who knows how long before that... brake pads were fairly new when we got the car but we have put a lot of miles on it since then.

Great idea on going ahead and buying new rotors, then machine the old ones if possible and save for next time!

Also thanks Klaus for the heads up on shipping time, maybe I will check prices at the dealer, if they are comparable I'll just go there.

Do you all recommend Genuine Volvo parts or are the alternatives sold at IPD etc good?