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I have a 96 850 Turbo with 138k and for the past month have been learning as much as I can about changing my timing belt. I've been on everyone's message board and researched all threads dealing with changing a timing belt. I have all the parts, from FCP, and a lot of tools including air tools. I'm changing out the water pump (Hepu) the idler pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley, Conti timing belt, and a new serp belt.
All of the timing marks lined up perfectly and I removed everything except the crank pulley. I thought I could get the belt off without removing it. Wrong! I had to cut the belt to remove it. Then I decided it might be better to remove the crank pulley. I used my impact wrench w/30mm socket and off came the nut. I then tried to remove the four 10mm bolts on the crank pulley. All but one came off. The one that was frozen in place was pretty high up and couldn't get a wrench (impact) onto it. So, I reinstalled the other bolts on the crank pulley so I could turn the crank with a screw driver to the point where I could use an impact wrench. I turned it slowly about 1/4 - 1/3. Unfortunately, the bolt head rounded off and now I'm trying to use a 'bolt out'.... without success.
My question is...Did I mess up the valves or bend the valves by turning the crank? I only turned to the point when I felt some resistance and then stopped. I'm concerned that I may have bent the valves and will have a disaster when I put it all back together, start the engine and ??????.
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OK, the question no one is answering...could you have bent a valve? Yes.
Chances are you didn't, but yes. I have done it on a Jag 4.2L engine and barely felt resistance.
The good news...fire it up. It's as much work to check as it is to correct...almost. No..wait, just do a compression test. Might as well not ding the piston if a valve head drops off.
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Well I'm almost finished and everything is looking good. However, I need to torque the 30mm nut on the crankshaft damper (pulley). I have an impact wrench that is capable of 300 ft pounds maximum. My shop manual calls for 133 foot pounds for the 30mm nut and 18 ft lbs for the four 10mm bolts.
Would anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to torque these items? I have a(clicker)torque wrench too. The problem is that the crank turns when I try to use the torque wrench. I'm working alone so I don't have a helper to secure the crank while I apply torque to the nut. I was thinking of using the impact wrench to torque it. But that would be a guess as to how much torque the impact wrench is providing.
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posted by
someone claiming to be Larryp
on
Sun Oct 22 23:40 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Rick,
Don't forget the additional 30 degrees(?) of tightening for the 10 mm bolts. The 18 Ft lbs is way too low for a final torque. Check me on the spec again. Mark those and use your torque wrench to angle tighten them. For the 133, have you tried to calibrate the torque wrench on a stationary nut, using your torque wrench to check the calibration nut?
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Torque it correctly. I've heard of people jamming something in the cam gears to keep the camshaft from turning.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic (125K), 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red (45K), Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold at 140K and miss her). My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.
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Sorry for the blank reply. I'm somewhat new to this.
The bolt that I rounded off was one of the 10mm on the crank pulley and I left it in place since it is tightly frozen. I will not take off the pulley now. I lined up the marks again and installed the new belt. You're right, with time and patience, you do not have to remove the crank pulley. Now that I know what obstructions are around the crank pulley, I can fit the new belt onto the crank sprocket with no problem.
I don't beleive I damaged the valves when turning the crank by hand (screwdriver assisted). I stopped turning when I felt interference. I think it would take more than turning by hand to bend the valves.
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"Unfortunately, the bolt head rounded off and now I'm trying to use a 'bolt out'.... without success"
What bolt head rounded off? One of the 10mms, or the 30mm?
It is unlikely that you have damaged any valves. Regardless of whether you have or not, I would proceed under the assuption that you have not damaged the valves.
You should not (and do not have to) remove the crank pulley in order to change the timing belt. I repeat, DO NOT REMOVE THE crank pulley.
Now, knowing that you do not have to remove the crank pulley, you are going to have to stare and probe at the gaps and slots around the crank pulley to figure out how you are going to thread the new timing belt around the crank pully. Maybe practice with a piece of the old timing belt.
It can be done--'cause I and a million other people have done it.
As far as the bolt the you've rounded-off, it may, or may not, be important. Was it tightened (or re-tightened) before you rounded it off? If the bolt was tightened (or retightened) don't worry about the rounded head. If it is not tight, you are going to have to replace the bolt, but Forget about the easy-out-f-you are asking for far more trouble if you break off an easy-out in the bolt (assuming you do have to remove the bolt).
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posted by
someone claiming to be 777
on
Mon Oct 23 01:38 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Greetings:
Hey Ken,
I need to replace my timing belt on my 95 850 GLT AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. I have retained the instructional from Volvo spped.com. You had mentioned that there is no need to remove the crank pulley, aside from that how much easier is the belt replacement? Also can I get around anything else in particular as far as what the instructions stipulate. My goal is to make the transition from new belt,waterpump, and serpentine belt as smooth as possible. I am vry mechanically inclined, however this is my first volvo timing belt. One of the dealers in the area wants 105.00 per an hour! How much time would one need to complete such a task? Don't get me wrong the volvospeed.com presentation is very very informative, its just that I further elect to hear/gather insight from other members of this board who have done these belts time and time again. Please chime in any of your experiences and or important FYIS'. In addition any other members please feel free to elaborate as well. Thanks in advance!
Best Regards
1995 Volvo 850 GLT S.W. A.T. 155,000 Original miles
1988 Volvo 740 GLE S.W. A.T. 500,000 Original miles
1988 Volvo 740 GLE Sedan A.T. 190,000 Original miles (donated)
1989 Volvo 740 GLE S.W. A.T. 250,000 Original miles (donated)
1989 Volvo 740 GLE S.W. A.T. 440,000 Original miles
1990 Volvo 760 GLE Sedan 6 CYLINDER A.T. 185,000 (MOTOR SEIZED)Bad oil leak Avoid!!!
1990 Volvo 740 GLE S.W. A.T. 164,000 Oringinal miles
1992 Volvo 740 GLE S.W. A.T. 310,000 Original miles (insurance totaled flood damage).
All are/were non-Turbo.
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I did the timing belt on our '96 850 by simply following the step-by-step instructions in the Haynes 850 manual. Took me about 2 hours because this was my first 850 timing belt (have done others on other cars before). Not a hard job for a mechanically experience person.
I wish there was a more comprehensive aftermarket 850 manual available, but the Haynes covers some jobs well, including the timing belt.
John
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posted by
someone claiming to be 777
on
Mon Oct 23 06:57 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Thanks John!
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put a block of wood under the oil pan and raise the engine 1/4" it works
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I followed the instructions here for my 850 and had no problems. http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php
I need to do the belt on my V40 soon. Anthing different about the V40 I should know?
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