Here they are. It is a compulation of stuff I copied from other sites and posts. I have not put things in order. Too busy.
Maybe you can do the job and document it with pictures and orginize the steps. I had planned to do that but have been too busy.
Tom

Volvo AC Clutch Shim Removal Instructions

Basic tools required:
Socket set & flat/ring spanners,
Ideally a long (300mm) 14mm ring spanner to release the auxiliary belt tensioner pulley
One 6mm bolt 40-50mm long,
Three or four 5mm bolts 50mm long (or use studding)
Some 5mm nuts & washers
Micrometer or vernier gauge
Long feeler gauges

First measure the current clutch gap and calculate what thickness of shims needs to be removed to bring it down to about 0.40mm.

1. The 5mm threaded holes are in the clutch inner ring and can be seen in situ with a mirror. A substantial and accurately made puller plate is important. My first one of 1/8” (3mm) mild steel was not accurately drilled enough and bent under pressure because the clutch was very firmly attached. I made up using ¼” (6mm) mild steel. This is just a square or any shape, at least 5cm across, with three holes each 33mm apart, forming an equilateral triangle. The holes should be a good 5mm clearance. If you get a piece of metal ready, it doesn’t take long to drill the three holes after you have got the compressor off and checked the dimensions.

2. I bought a length of 5mm studding and cut off some 5cm lengths. This did work, but when cutting studding, even when running a nut down the cut end, it is not easy to leave a clean start thread. If your puller is accurately drilled, it might be better to use 5cm long bolts, with ‘clean’ ends (see later.) Sorry, I did not take any photographs as requested, but it will become obvious once you get into the job.

3. Unplug the electrical connector to avoid damage. After removing the splash guard, it is not too difficult to undo the four 12mm mounting bolts – two from underneath and two from above. If you can remove them completely while the compressor is in situ, then do so, because it makes manipulation easier. Because of their length, I found that three of them met obstructions and had to be removed later. Make sure that they are replaced as you reposition the compressor.

4. Release the auxiliary belt tensioner using the 14mm long spanner (see Haynes) and slip the belt off the compressor and tuck it out of the way. Manipulating the compressor to get access to the end of the clutch is fiddly, the cable trunking and other bits get in the way, as do the bolts if they are left in, but it can be tipped at an angle to work from underneath. I had difficulty undoing the 6mm centre bolt (10mm head) it made no difference with the clutch electrically engaged. I eventually fitted one of the 5mm studs and jammed a screwdriver between that and the socket head to lock the clutch while undoing the bolt. (The stud bent and had to be discarded, which is why you might need four 5mm bolts or lengths of studding.)

5. Replace the short 6mm centre bolt with the longer one. If you use 5mm screws as I have suggested, first run some nuts up to the heads, followed by washers (to stop the bolt from turning later) then insert them through the drilled plate into the three tapped holes in the clutch. Tighten up the three nuts evenly, forcing the puller plate against the protruding centre bolt until the clutch plate releases. Once it is loose enough, remove the puller and centre bolt and then the clutch plate, holding something underneath to catch any loose shims.

6. Measure the thickness of the removed shims and discard enough to reduce the gap to not less than 0.40mm. (I had just two shims of different thickness and removed one.)

7. Replace the remaining shim(s) refit the clutch plate and pull in tight using the original centre bolt. Chris suggested using nutloc – I forgot. Check that the pulley spins freely, check the gap and electrical operation (remove the clutch relay, back left in the fuse box on the left of the engine, and short the two larger left sockets – no need to turn the ignition switch - replace the plug on the compressor and earth the compressor frame by touching it to its mounting bracket.)

8. Replace the long bolts as necessary and maneuver the compressor back into position (some temporary insulating tape to hold back some of the bolts while positioning the compressor may be useful. They tend to get in the way.

9. Replace the relay and refit the auxiliary belt (see Haynes.)

10. Keep Cool!


New info: 7-05

Thanks to the advice on the Brickboard about excessive A/C clutch clearance, my A/C is working again, and I can add some info to the A/C clutch repair procedure that I posted two years ago.

Checking for the problem is pretty straightforward. If you remove the plastic undertray, you can measure the A/C clutch gap with a feeler guage. (Engine should not be running when you do this.) Much like the first person to report on the issue of A/C clutch wear, mine measured .041" - .042". This appears to be the gap distance at which the clutch becomes incapable of pulling in the clutch plate in hot weather. I removed shims to get it down to .019" and it has had no problem in the recent 100+ deg F weather.

Two years ago, I had posted information about using three 5mm X 080 bolts to pull off the clutch plate. Let me add some info to that: Unless you can find some hardened 5MM bolts, the tip of the bolts will be damaged in the course of pulling off the clutch plate, and will damage the threads in the threaded holes in the clutch plate when you remove the bolts. Therefore, when you go buy the 5MM bolts, I recommend that you also buy a 5MM X 080 tap, and an extra set of bolts. This will allow you to clean up the threads before you replace the clutch plate, as well as have another set of bolts to remove the plate again, if you find that your first attempt at shimming did not get you where you wanted to go.

Just pulling off the clutch plate to reshim, with the compressor still connected to the refrigerant lines is much easier than completely replacing the clutch while the compressor is still connected. You still need to swing the radiator forward, unbolt the receiver/dryer bracket, and remove the 4 bolts that hold on the compressor. But you should be able to get the clutch plate off in an hour (less if you have done it before), and have it back together in 2 to 2 1/2 hours. There is no reason on earth to replace the entire compressor if all you need is a reshim of the compressor clutch. There is a difference of about $800 between buying a compressor & refrigerant that you don't need and reshimming the clutch plate without even disconnecting the lines

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Tom 69-1800S, 72-1800ES, 96-850T,2000-S70 GLT-SE