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Won't start with dashboard removed (go figure?) 850 1995

I'm doing the evaporator core job on my 95 turbo 850 wagon. I'm unable to remove the core from the lines, so I was going to take it to my local volvo shop. I checked to see if the car would start, it did, perfect. I killed the engine, reattached the steering wheel (for safety, of course,) and turned the key to start. Nothing but cranking. I've plugged the vac line for the turbo guage by the way. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks everybody.








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    Whay can't you remove the lines. I just did this job. You have to relly pull hard. I actually gemoved the lines ( several bolds hod down lines) in engine bay to give more room to pull on them. Make sure you have a good quality sproing connector remover. Don't give up you have it almost done. Worst comes to worst cut the evaporator adapters at the fire wall with a hack saw. Don't give the stealer any money!!!!!!!!



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      Not a bad idea, I'll try pulling on the lines a few mor times, if no dice, I'm cutting them. Thanks for the advice. No I'm just hoping that once I reassemble everything that it will start.



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    I think you should keep trying to remove the core. Do you have the correct tools? They are called "spring tool" or "spring expander" or similar. They are hard plastic come in sets marketed to fit Ford products. It does take a lot of force to expand the springs which retain the core on the fittings. I made a little backing plate to keep the expander in place so I could compress it more fully. Also even when you have the springs expanded the old o-ring seals make a very tight fit. It took 2 people in my case to get them free.

    Or is there some different problem?



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      I don't think that there's a different problem, I have the ford spring coupling remover doo-dads, bought them from O'Reilys Auto parts. I also made a c-shaped backing plate as mentioned in the other post, I used channel locks to confirm that the plastic tool was pushed in completely. Maybe I'm not pulling on the tubes hard enough. I might cut the connection at the evaporator, reassemble and have my shop pull the cut stubs out of the line and attach to evaporator. With the securing bolts off of the AC line it should have plenty of room to install new evap and leave old stubs in place. Thanks for your advice.



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        When working on mine a pro mechanic friend pointed out that the evap lines are made of a very hard aluminum which will withstand considerable force. It could help to put some kind of clamp around the lines that remain in the car (to give you a bearing surface for applying force). Just put the clamp at a little distance from the mating parts where the evaporator enters. This worked for the accumulator line which was stuck fast.


        He said if you don't distort the lines (making them out-of-round) it is no problem to bend them a bit so they meet up squarely with the lines in the car. I inserted a thin metal dowel covered with electrical tape to aim the new evaporator's lines to the proper angles.

        You have already removed your dash but my son and I found it helpful to keep a little notebook with all the steps written down in order. The only issue we had getting everything back together and running was the large red connector under the dasth - at first it did not seat properly and we got all kinds of drivability symptoms and warning lights. We secured it with plastic ties and it has not given further problems.



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