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I like that, "the manual says they should not go bad". Wouldn't that be nice. They are pretty much a cake walk operation, the only thing kinky about them is the torx socket you need to get the bolts out that actually retain the hub assembly. The tutorial on Bay 13 is a good one for sure, the only place that I diverge from their instructions is that instead of taking it loose at the lower control arm and leaning it out I will pop it loose at the ball joint and the strut, pull the caliper and then lay the entire knuckle ontop of my tool box and change it out. It may sound like more work but in reality it takes me 10-15 minutes tops to change one out, so how much time could it really save me. In the later cars there is some adjustment where the strut and the knuckle bolt together so it is possible to disturb your camber settings if you take it apart there. If you do not plan on having it aligned when you are done then I would do it just like the Bay 13 plans line out for you.
Get yourself an SKF hub assembly, it is the same as the Volvo one only it will not come with new bolts like the factory Volvo one does, otherwise it is the same part. Easiest way to tell if they are bad is if you get noise from them, a noise that increases and decreases as you steer left and right. Take the car out and drive it like a drunk on his way home from happy hour, slow swerving motions left and right. You should be able to hear the "wah wah wah" noise come and go as you steer in and out. Beyond that I have never had to replace one that was not making noise.
Mark
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