I need to replace my shocks on the 2000 V70 and was wondering if there any other parts that should be replaced at this time? Also, does anyone know a website or illustration on how to do the front struts. The back ones should be easy.

Thanks
Gene

Yes, I think that www.shox.com has the Bilstein touring for your car and it's better and cheaper than OEM. For a diagram, check out:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/CSV70/csv70shocks.htm
You should consider changing your strut/shock mounts as well as the front spring seats depending on mileage as well as your swaybar end links. I would personally replace these with heavy duty ones. These can be bought from www.ipdusa.com Other than that, check your ball joints to make sure they aren't bad either.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.

At 138,000 miles on my 98 V70 I'm about to change my front struts as well. IPD tells me that there should be no need to change the strut mounts. I'm using Bilstein TCs, new spring seats and mounting hardware. I have not purchased new seats at $60 each. Input is welcome on this.

98 V70, lots of DIY maintenance and mods.

RedAlrt,

$60.00 each for spring seats?

My local Volvo dealer sells them for $70.00 a PAIR.

Are you talking about the rubber clad piece that goes into the bearing plate?

Bryan

Correction...Strut mounts at $60 each.

RedAlrt,

That's a great price--the dealer wants $130.00 EACH. Are those OEM?

Where did you get them?

Thanks,
Bryan

fcpgroton.com

heres the link

http://fcpgroton.com/CSV70/csv70shocks.htm

I too have to question the arbitrary replacement of the mount and seat. From what I can see the rubber at the top of my struts looks new and there is no play when I bounce the suspension up and down. I recall replacing struts on other cars 1977 245 and 1983 633csi and even reused the old bolts without a problem. The bolts are cheap though and I will probably replace those and the seat. I only have 75K on the car (2000 v70) and the shocks and struts are a little soft but not nearly used up yet. I believe in heading off problems, but also in the old adage if it ain't broke don't fix it.

How do you get to the top of the rear shocks in the wagon? Does it unbolt from the top or bottom?

Thanks to all. Hope to get some more input on replacing the mounts and seats, particularly if anyone knows what the expected life of these parts is.

Gene

Rubber wears out....thus with mine ('98), I replaced all the parts mentioned earlier. Some of the parts can be visually inspected and left in, but I did all of mine. When I asked to see the strut mounts (the piece at the very top with metal gears in it) that came out of my car, they looked pretty frazzled- like something I did not want to reuse. Other than this, so many people are having prematurely failing spring seats...I'm reading about it all the time on this and other forums, so personally I didn't want to take any chances. shox.com has good prices....call them if the parts aren't on their site...they still have them.
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1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon. My cars have been running so well lately they've got me worried.

Not disagreeing with anyone here...just adding some more points. The metal "plate" is more expensive than the rubber seat, and the plates don't have to be replaced often. But the rubber seat can "look" okay, but should be changed no matter what when you replace the strut, because the center of the rubber seat can be ready to bust out and you can't tell.
Someone asked about access to the rear shocks on the wagons. You have to get the rear floor up to get to the top of the shock and i think there is a difference on the 850s vs the 70 series on how you get is out. On the 70 series there are bolts that you access from the spare tire area.

rickansaldo,

I didn't replace the mounting (bearing) plate when I changed the spring seat. The bearing turns smoothly, but it does have some vertical play compared to a new one.

Would a worn mounting plate rattle when the car is started? I would think that the pressure of the spring in extension and the weight of the car would prevent any movement of the bearing.

There is still a rattle on start-up and over very rough roads. I've replaced the end-links and spring seat. The struts are fine as are the ball joints--with the exception of the LF outer track-rod end.

Any advice?

Thanks,
Bryan