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Searched all fuel pump relay posts.. found similar but not same issue. I'm very impressed with the advice on this site, so hope you folks can help me.
Problem: The ubiquitous, 94 855 Turbo -"cranks won't start", after quitting dead at 30 mph when running fine with no problems.
Read every related post and completed all suggested diagnostics.
Power checks ok to fuel pump with VM
No fuel pump sound when cranking or listening in rear compartment
103 switch wiggles like a hula dancer in that socket, is that normal?
One time, got no power to pump, wiggled and seated 103 again, power read positive again.
Unique issues:
1. Cannot remove 103 Fuel Pump Relay (every post says, "took it out to check corrosion, broken solders, etc, yet no one mentioned not being able to get the puppy out at all?) I think I understand the snap connectors, but there is no space to release the left connector on 103. What's up with that? ...I'm fairly adept at solder, but really need to get it out first...
2. Stoopid me broke the 90 degree connector removing fuel pump pipes, stuck tite with 12 years of committed service, so now I cannot proceed to diagnose until I replace. Plastic snapped at smaller bore plastic inserted into rubber hose. I am unsure whether it is the pressure pipe, or return pipe. (it has yellow tape on it if that means anything to volvo repair pros, and not just a preference to previous owner.!) The electrical connectors also have a yellow tape strip, but not the second fuel pump pipe.
I have Chilton manual, not helpful at all in identifying which hose is what.
The dealer wants 75 bucks each for the pipes, I'm trying to get used locally.
Have a guy who will sell me pump, harness, both pipes, 02 sensors (it's time anyway) and fuel pump relay switch for $250, off a running 850 turbo sedan. Looks like a great deal, (verify?)but I still won't know how to get out that @#$%! 103. I'm also not sure I'd need the whole fuel system if it is just the relay.
Last, out of curiosity, why is my special little fuel pump relay switch green-when everyone else says the 103 is red?! (and online pics show it red)
thanks in advance-
dori
ps yeah, i'm a girl but I wrenched with my dad since age 8. Just used to chevys and fords... only been a Volvo owner (obsessor!) for the last 8 years.... still discovering.... for example, I'd gladly race you removing a starter from my F-250 pickup and this 850 turbo, the latter requires several bloody knuckles and the flexiblity of someone from cirque du soleil....(grin)
cheers!
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I hope you got that @#$#@$ relay out by now. I was just received an email:
HI Klaus,
I saw your post on brickboard about the fuel pump relay problems. The main problem are cold solder joints onto the pcb mainly where the relay coil wires are connected (yellow arrows on the pic below). The cure is to resolder all pads with a 63/37 tin/silver alloy (no tin/lead) I used to fix half a dozen of those fuel pump relays and the intermittent no-start/stalling problems NEVER came back.
Best Regards
Jack Sturgeon
Canada
I will email you the pic,
Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)
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posted by
someone claiming to be naftals
on
Tue Feb 7 02:02 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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I feel your pain!
I have just the same situation with the lights relay (the big one, next to FP Relay) on my 1995 850. Just would not come out. I am also very reluctant to go too hard on it, since the temperatures are well below freezing.
Did you find a way to get the FP relay out?
p.s. I think it must be FP relay that will do the trick in your case. I had similar simptoms on my 740 and fuel pump relay it was. It switched off when it got warm.
Cheers,
naftals
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Another victim of the stuck relay! No, I have not received my parts yet, so she's still sitting in the driveway. ( got it nice and shiny while I'm waiting.,)
I have not found any mention of what to do with stuck relay all over net, I don't want to jack it around and damage it further or worse, the fuse next to it that threatens "DON'T TOUCH ME, I BITE" or something like that...or fuse socket. hmmmmm....
Somebody.. help!
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posted by
someone claiming to be naftals
on
Tue Feb 7 23:45 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Well, the garage checked it out and found that both low beam bulbs were out. And the stuck relay still is in there and functioning well. Sorry, but I will not be able to offer any know-how, what to do with your FP relay.
The garage did not even take any money for the whole ordeal. Do I feel stupid now or what?
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Better stupid than broke! Congrats on the easy fix. They didn't tell you anything about why that relay was stuck, eh? Rats.
I shall carry on..... in search of the ever elusive "stuck fuse" solution....
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posted by
someone claiming to be naftals
on
Tue Feb 7 22:04 CST 2006 [ RELATED]
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Well, I gave up and took it to a garage. It is still -15C here and I am parked on a street. Consequently, I was very reluctant to wiggle it around- plastic gets fragile at these temperatures. And the fingers get numb also.
Anyway, let's see how the mechanics get it out. I will let you know.
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First, my 850 wagon is a non-turbo. I replaced my Green relay (original) with a red one and was hesitant like you as well. The relay should just pull out as I recall.
In my case the 103 electronic relay was failing after starting the car, which caused me some trouble with dianostics. When I would first turn on the key, the relay would activate, fuel pump would come on and I would have fuel pressure. After 45 seconds to 12 minutes the car would start sputtering and die (just like running out of fuel). After replacing the fuel filter I decided to put some test leads on the relay by popping off the dust cover. I didn't even have to put the meter on it. I could see the relay tips were open. After letting it cool down, I restarted the car and watched the relay again and after about 40 seconds or so I could see the relay tips open up. The car started to sputter and I quickly closed the tips on the relay manually. The car leveled off and idled. I did this several times and felt I could keep the car running forever this way, which confirmed I did not have a fuel pump problem. I then pulled out the relay and jumped the appropriate points with a jumper, started the car and it ran for 30 minutes before I shut it off. I ordered my relay, socked it in and away I went with no problems.
If you are having problems pulling out your relay, you may have excessive corrosion or a melt down of some sort. You may be able to pull the torx screws around the perimeter of the fuse box (pull your battery cables first!), then inspect and repair the relay panel connections. Be careful though...I did some repairs on a BMW 535i fuse box and there were ground points that were tied to the mounting screws that were a bear to get back in alignment prior to reassembly. You may find the same thing as well.
As for your questions on the parts, most likely you are dealing with the relay and at most the fuel pump. My research showed that the majority of the time the relay was to blame. An excellent source for parts is Rockauto.com I have found them to be much cheaper than even the Brickboard vendors listed and they ship very quickly. I got a new PNP switch for around $60 (1/2 of the price from anyone else). I got rear hatch struts for 1/2 price as well. I have found them to have most parts plus they have an excellent parts lookup system on their website.
Good Luck.
Doyle
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Ahhh. 103 color change is original vs replacement. So simple, yet mentioned NO where. Thanks!
And yes, sounds like deja vu all over again with my situation and yours. Diagnosing shore is tricky with the intermittant failure of the relay... I think that would have been all to the repair if
A) I could get the bugger out, and
B) I didn't snap the fuel hose off its connector.
(okay, I'll come clean. My husband really snapped it off, but I wanted to take responsibility for it cause he felt so bad! He's a bit intimidated by my dad as Uber Auto Master Mechanic, HVAC certified, Master Electrician - who always knows the way we "should" have done everything, since he basically has done everything right or wrong, with every mechanical device under the sun, in his 75 years... so I didn't want him to get the wrap again for goggling up the vovo...) My dad really is extremely nice, and tactful about it, but it still is hard to admit to the old Father in law you just cost yourself at least 150 smackers by going commando on a stuck connector....
And I really appreciate your suggestions, (especially the disconnect on the cables, I like my hair curly, thanks...) It gives me more confidence to keep plugging away at this one and not admitting defeat and carting her off to the shop!
Cheers.
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By the way, I wouldn't spend $250 for a bunch of used parts, which may not have as much life as the ones you already have. You are better off looking for a pick and pull yard and spending $25. There are a couple of Bricksters in you neighborhood, if I remember their handle I will post and let you know.
Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)
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Yep, that's an excellent point. If I wasn't so skint right now, I would get the darn new pipes, no problem. The only thing that deal had going for it was that the guy said it was off a running car, with no current codes. If I pick from a wreck, I wouldn't know how long she was sitting... He also gave me a guarantee, return if no work-y. Not sure how I could enforce that over 1500 miles away -thru the mail no less. I found another guy with the same 855, and 70,000 less miles on it than mine with a dead tranny he's parting out. Let's see what he asks...
Yeah, I cannot explain WHAT the PROBLEM with that relay fuse, it will NOT come out. I did not want to take out the bank to it's left, cause it has all kinds of "scary monster" warnings all over it, to handle with care.
(boooooo-gie woooooo-gie wooooo-gie.....)
I figured why look for more repairs than I already have, but it may be the only way. That left side clip must be seriously confangled.
I appreciate your advice. Hope you weren't put off by the "aww, dad" comment, it's just you have the same great insight and advice my dad would give.. but he's 1200 miles away and makes fun of my Vo-Vo and her pricey parts habit. (I think he secretly likes the zippy little girl really, just won't admit it cause he's such a Chevy guy)
A million thanks for addressing my dilemma.
D
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Yellow tape indicates it is the delivery hose. If I remember correctly, you will need a new hose AND elbow, they are one unit.
Sounds like relay 103 will need to be fixed if you can wiggle it. It does pull out. Just fix your fuel line first :)
Klaus
--
(V♂LV♂s 1975 164, 1995 854T, 1998 V70R)
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Excellent! Yellow means delivery. THANK YOU!
Yes, as one unit, they go for about 75 dollars.. Ouch! And it looks like it snakes deep underneath , so spelunking I will go...
Sooo, no tips on how to get out my strange, green relay until I do my fuel line, "homework"?? ;) Awwww... daaaaaaad....!
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