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I've owned my Volvo 850 2.5 10V 1995 Estate for 18 months now, 212,000 Miles on the clock (203000 when I bought it) It's got the dreaded RMS oil leak which I was about to do myself (when brave enough) but now I have a more immediate problem, it won't start.....
I've had intermittent starting since I got it, the engine will sometimes start then die after about 3 seconds, even though it sounded right (no misfires or tapping etc) it was clearly an engine management shutdown, so I looked it up on sites such as Volvospeed and took the advice.
I cleaned the Flame-trap and Throttle body and changed the Oil to GTX HM and filters etc. it "seemed" to help, but got sporadic episodes, where it would take 2-5 attempts to start and continue running, there was no apparent reason, as it happened when the engine was hot or cold and sometimes didn't happen at all for weeks...
BUT.. three days ago it took about 20 tries to start up when cold, then was OK for the rest of the day, the day after, it refused to run for more than 3 seconds and has refused since.
I have spent time and money in the last couple of days, I checked the Spark Plugs (like new with no oily/bad deposits) and cleaned them... The distrubutor cap was well coked and pitted so cleaned that but it still looked bad, so I replaced it, to no avail. I cleaned the Flame-trap yet again, but it still refuses to play ball.
My local mechanic (too busy to look at my car for 2 weeks) advised it's probably the Crank Position Sensor, so I bought one from a Genuine Volvo Dealership for £40+vat, but it didn't make any difference. I also checked all the visible wiring and connectors to sensors and fuses thereof and the main relay etc.
I obviously needed to get the OBD2 fault codes (I have the connector on the centre console) but I didn't have theOBD2 reader and wasn't going to waste £25 or more getting it done at a local garage. (I could buy one for £39) So I made my own reader... with some great help from the internet, and am now the proud owner of a reader and these 2 codes.
121 and 122 Which apparently mean
1-2-1 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) signal absent or faulty
1-2-2 Air Temperature sensor signal absent or faulty
Where are these sensors, and are these codes relevant to the problems I am having?
I hope someone can help, I'm tearing my hair out and having to drive a hired car "yeachh spit. spit" compared to a Volvo 850, it's a tin can.
Please help me before I go bald
Thank you in advance!
David
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posted by
someone claiming to be tapsa
on
Sun Oct 2 19:30 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Hi, I was able to fix the start-and-run-for-few-seconds by renewing the fuel pump relay (103) for 50$ as the only thing I did and this advised by local Volvo tech. 220kkm 850-94.
br Tapsa
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posted by
someone claiming to be ksg
on
Mon Sep 26 02:33 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Try disconnecting the connector on the MAF sensor located on the air cleaner housing and see if the car will start. This should cause the engine controls to go into "safe mode". The car if it starts will probably idle ok but will produce very little power (no fuel enrichment available). The diagnostic light will set itself so you will have to clear it.
If this test goes as I say you will have identified a bad MAF sensor. However if your car sometimes runs for more than a couple of seconds, you might look closely at the MAF sensor wiring and connector for an intermittent condition.
The air temperature sensor if bad will not prevent the car from running. It is located at the lower front of the car on examples I've seen.
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Things that come to mind to check:
Gas cap gasket
fuel filter
fuel sending unit
MAF unit itself bad
Throttle body itself bad.
Sorry I couldn't help you more than this. These start/shutdown problems are sometimes difficult to track down.
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon
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Thanx Madeinjapan.. I'm going to take a look at these things you mention.
Further to my original post, I cleared the codes and now I get a 1-1-1 code (no problems found) but the car still won't run. The Lambda light now goes off (was stuck on) so those codes must have been spurious? or is there a possibility that there is a sensor that shuts down the engine but doesn't give a code?
I'm looking at fuel flow now...
I dunno, I'm seriously annoyed with this car, probably end up taking it to a Volvo dealership and see how much this is going to cost.
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I had a no-start problem, did the plugs, rotor, dist. cap and cam position sensor. All made no difference.
If you are getting spark the cam sensor is fine.
What worked to start (and no problems since) was to run the starter until it started. Either make sure your battery is charged and/or hook up jumper cables to another car and grind the starter, without any stops, for upto to 2 minutes.
I had the first signs of life after about one minute 10 seconds and keep grinding until fully running, about 1 minute 35 seconds.
My mechanic didn't know why but he has had the same procedure work on 3 cars.
Worth a shot.
And before getting a new MAF sensor check the fresh air hose that goes from MAF to throttle body for small cracks that might only show when engine 'flexes' as it is running. They are usually on the underside of the hose where you can't easily see them.
Good Luck!
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posted by
someone claiming to be tapsa
on
Mon Oct 3 20:20 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Hi,
also had some of these after a very short drive less than 60sec around zero temperature. Drove out from garage and it didn't restart before running the starter for a minute or two with gas pedal down - watch your converter if doing this. I figured it migth be miscalculating the sparc position or fuel need when restarting?
br Tapsa
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posted by
someone claiming to be looncraz
on
Mon Sep 26 15:08 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Howdy,
Something you may wish to check would be the plastic intake duct after the air mass meter (Mass Air Flow Sensor).
A leak in that hose can be problematic, and sometimes impossible to see. I had this exact problem, and that is what solved it for me ('94 850).
Also, check the wiring from the MAF, which is attached directly to the air box which contains the air filter. The MAF body connects to the plastic intake hose to which I earlier referred.
For a quick fix, duct tape works great if it is the intake hose, make sure you wrap around several times as the duct tape will stop holding onto the plastic when heat is applied unless there is pressure from multiple layers of tape. The duct tape will hold to itself perfectly fine.
--looncraz
(1986 240DL (268,000 Miles, now totaled :-(, no repairs) - bought @ 124k Mi, 99
(1994 850 Handling Kit, Spoiler, S/M-Roof, 60K Mi) - New Purshase
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posted by
someone claiming to be Makoshark
on
Sat Oct 1 18:11 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Agree with everyone. The symptom you discribe sounds like a bad MAF sensor. Try to disconnect the MAF and start the car, If it starts you found the problem, a bad MAF.Good luck.
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Thanx everyone who replied, especially Madeinjapan who got my focus onto possible fuel-flow issues!
I have fixed the "No start" problem by replacing the fuel filter, I did a few other things to help stop the "reluctant to start" issues I still had as well and now my 850 starts first time and runs better than ever!
New Items.
Fuel Filter (No obvious reasons but looked like it had NEVER been replaced (212K miles)
Distribibutor Cap (Old and Pitted)
Crank Position Sensor. (was not the culprit, but didn't do any harm to replace)
Alternator (bearings dry and not charging new Battery efficiently) This item was a Biatch to replace)
Haynes Manual (never would have found the hidden bolts on Steering pump without it)
Other things I did.
Checked Vacuum system and repaired a break on Hot/Cold intake flap valve (I broke it during attempts to repair car doh!)
Checked all contacts and wiring to sensors)
Cleaned Spark Plugs (were in good condition)
Added Redex to Petrol Tank as I believed the intermittent "reluctant to start" problem was due to low compression (sticky valves)
Added Oil Enhancer to also help with valves and YES these two things fixed the problems I had since owning the car :¬)
Now All I have to do is replace that damned rear-main-seal, yeah right, I'm leaving this until Springtime.
Cheers
David
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Dave,
Glad that you found the culprit. You're good to go on the fuel filter for another 100K now unless you run into some really contaminated gas. Did you check all the vacuum elbows and flame trap? If these are clogged and then unclogged sometimes the RMS issue clears itself up. The clogged hoses create added pressure on the RMS. Anyway, just a thought. Good luck when you tackle that pesky job.
Regards,
MIJ
--
1998 S70 T5 Emarald Green Metallic, 2004 V70 2.5T Ruby Red, Previous Owner of Black '94 850 Turbo Wagon
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