Hi,

Maybe you should look into this web sight of shop that shows some bad rotors.
The site has a few other helpful maintenance tips as it an independent repair garage that gets repeat customers for giving explanations.

https://www.ferrelsgarage.com/the-garage-blog/common-brake-problem-in-winter

Heed to what he says about the pads and the calipers pockets causing the problem in the first place.

He doesn’t go into depth about brake pad cross contamination’s getting into the rotors pores.


Whenever replacing pads I always scuff the rotor, using brake cleaner. I use brake cleaner twice! Before and after a scuff. Turning only if necessary
Used rotors and pads can be used if treated the same way as long as they are flat and even.
All pads and rotors are bigger coming out of their molds and receive final machining with inspections as batches in stages. It’s mass production with many techniques to match.


Each brake pad manufacturer can have their own recipe for friction materials.
For a pun … the materials get rubbed the wrong way 😊

There is no standard specification out there other than say SAE. A “DOT’s” requirement could be less on pads than that of brake fluids. There is a limited number of manufacturers of brake fluids.

I haven’t seen pads with specific certifications other than their own bragging of advertisings.
Similar to the snake oil.
Different grades of performance or levels of expense varies the materials and of course the mind games played within a consumers own wallet folds.
I try for the middle of the road on products, as the law of averages works MORE BLINDLY. IMHO.

The best thing to do is keeping the calipers serviced in climates that promote corrosion or are running in environments not conclusively allowed not to be harmful to either components.
Example… You shouldn’t go racing on a dirt track made or built inside a cement or rock quarry. 🤭
I don’t think I could stand to own a vehicle that lives in a salt belt area myself.

The rear brakes do work less than the front brakes and consequently run colder. Moisture in brake fluid migrates to there due to its natural composition too.

Since most of the stopping work is done up in the front of car, the rears get ignored rather easily.
It's probably a pet peeve with area mechanics, having to idle themselves with doing vehicle inspections. Ho-hum attitude plus it’s a set fee that might affect their credentials and that keeps them away from doing larger $ jobs.
You can’t blame them there!
They like whole axle pricing so you doing it yourself stops that opportunity too.
Inspection got started for a reason and mostly it’s about public safety with some sliver lining in the fringes.
The inspection doesn’t make a boat payment but it keeps the lights on and the rent paid.

With you get the whole story or information about brakes, or anything else of desire, can always be a good move!

The patrons of the BRICKBOARD have appreciated getting and giving so it feels good that we are still a bunch of needed fixers no matter our age differences or individual mannerisms.
The web site above appeared the same to me.

Phil