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coolant leak/intermittent"brake failure"[240-260/1985] posted by Ted Y. on
Sunday, 24 May 1998, at 11:10 p.m.

Please help!

After spending all day replacing thermostat, ALL cooling hoses, cleaning expansion tank, installing old radiator (after sending out for pressure test/ roding out), and checking all belt tensions in my 1985 245 turbo wagon, (whew!).....I have developed a coolant "drip" around the bell-housing for the transmission.

The bottom portion of the thermostat housing appears "moist", though I cleaned the mating surfaces carefully (or so I thought) and replaced the rubber o-ring supplied with the thermostat. I asked IPD if there was a gasket for the thermostat housing I should replace while I have the cover off, and they said, "no". It's frustrating, after doing all this work, to find a mystery leak. It is difficult for me to pinpoint the exact location of the leak. I have checked all the tightness of all hose clamps, and have re-tightened the thermostat bolts. I even checked as best i could around the body of the water pump... no luck there.

Has anybody had a similar problem? I am almost afraid to start the motor. I have thought about driving 3 mi. to my freind's German car garage, and asking him to take a look.

Last question.....(I promise) .... My "brake failure" warning light on the dash lights up intermittently (mostly in the rain). Sometimes during daily driving, the pedal suddenly "goes soft" I plan on bleeding the braking system..hopefully this will take care of it.

I also installed IPD's front and rear anti-sway bars. Since my turbo already had stock bars (although smaller), I am curious to feel the difference. AND I installed new steering rack boots.

I'm beat.

Any advice on the cooling and braking problems would be MUCH appreciated.



Re: coolant leak/intermittent"brake failure"[240-260/1985] posted by George Swift on
Monday, 25 May 1998, at 12:31 a.m.

George says;

Ted , Re-check the water pump. Remove the protection plate if necessary. Usually when a water pump leaks (a little) it drips off the bell housing after following rh side of block. As for the brake problem, I'll bet that the master cylinder is by-passing. A quick visual check would be to look for wetness around flange where the m/c bolts to the servo. My advice is to buy a new one, (if thats the problem) because I've seen rebuilds of poor quality. Brakes are no place to take shortcuts, or try to save money. --
George Swift....Volvo Car Care

Re: coolant leak/intermittent"brake failure"[240-260/1985] posted by Jerry Andersch on
Monday, 25 May 1998, at 9:54 a.m.


I had the exact same experience, some time back, with coolant dripping off the bell-housing. It drove me nuts trying to figure out where the leak was located. I wish George and the Brickboard had been around then because it was,in fact, the water pump. Not leaking at the body/gasket but leaking round the seal on the main shaft. Clean and dry the pump body. Then after running the engine for a few minutes check the underside of the most forward portion of the pump near the fan for coolant.(Engine off while checking) A small auto inspection mirror is really handy for looking carefully at the back and underside of components.

Do replace your brake master cylinder. I haven't priced a new Volvo MC lately but last time I bought one it was about $80 ... and with a little help from a Haynes or Bentley Volvo repair manual you should be able to replace it with relative ease. You'll need new Dot 4 brake fluid and will have to bleed the system to finish the job. Instructions on bleeding brakes can be found in the manuals as well.

You certainly don't want to be pushing your Turbo along a twisty canyon road ... trying out those slick new IPD bars ... and have the brakes fail! --
Jerry Andersch 1980 242DL 1986 245DL 1988 244DL 1995 944T

Re: coolant leak/intermittent"brake failure"[240-260/1985] posted by Craig Chernos on
Tuesday, 26 May 1998, at 11:08 a.m.

Bundy - can't answer the question re coolant leak, as I don't have the same model as you. But I think my 164 shares a similar braking system configuration - a split circuit - and the brake failure light comes on when there is a significant pressure differential between the two circuits. The 164 had this problem a while back, along with the brake pedal suddenly going soft with a loss of braking force. Replacing the master cyl did the trick. Best wishes, Craig Chernos


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