The Brickboard

BrickBoard Archives

The files contained in this listing have been automatically archived from the active forums. Because the vast majority of posts are now in one place, this archive is considered legacy. You should use the SEARCH feature OR choose your topic and select date tabs within the forum you choose.

Alternator Replacement / Modernization[140/73] posted by Craig White on
Wednesday, 20 May 1998, at 9:12 a.m.

OK, here we go..the road to rebuild. While rebuilding the '73 142 (b20e) I've decided to go the whole nine yards. A problem the car always had was the alternator - a funky looking MOTOROLA...eesh! I can't remember the headlights ever being full brightness off the 35 amps that thing put out. (Do to night vision problems, I run pretty serious lamps, and driving lights.) Here's the issue:
The bearings were going on the alternator, so I want to replace it. The housing is so worn that it no longer (effectively) tightens to the block. Always loose, and the resulting myriad of problems from being loose.
I called everyone I knew for a replacement with no real success. I did however find someone who would sell me a "modernized" version. It is said to work on this car, eliminates the rats nest of wires the old model has, as well as another electrical component I've since forgotten the name of. It puts out 70 amps. (No more dim lights!) This guy has done this for others with 1800's to satisfaction, and the price is certainly better than what I was facing with replacing the original.

Too good to be true? A hassle to install? Any thoughts on having done this before? Anything to watch for in the installation?

I see much money being spent this summer on this car...oh well.

- Craig W.

Re: Alternator Replacement / Modernization[140/73] posted by Wes Pyle on
Wednesday, 20 May 1998, at 10:05 a.m.

Hi Craig,

I upgraded my 145e about 10 years ago. My car had a 60 amp. I put in halogens and guess what? The alternator wouldn't keep up. I'm now running a Bosch 70 amp that I got from a junk yard. I can't remember what car it's from. Anyway, it was an easy swap. Had to stack spacers/washers where it mounts to the block for proper belt alignment. Also, the new unit has an internal regulator, so minor wiring changes were needed.

I'll look at my car and see if I can find a part number on the alt. I used.


Re: Alternator Replacement / Modernization[140/73] posted by Craig White on
Wednesday, 20 May 1998, at 11:56 a.m.


The "new" alternator will have the internal regulator as well - resulting in the wiring changes. That's the part that bothers me. In fact, anything re: wiring makes me unnecessarily nuts. The gentleman I spoke to said he'd offer plenty of over the phone step-by-step, etc. I'll need it. Any thoughts you can offer on what to expect would be greatly appreciated.

The good news - the mounting and hardware are modified at the shop, and delivered to me as the fit to a B20 is a no brainer.

An aside: I found a mint pair of yellow/amber lenses (from a '53 Mercedes) for the fog we get here, and will finally be able to use them!

Thanks - Craig W.

Re: Alternator Replacement / Modernization[140/73] posted by Wes Pyle on
Wednesday, 20 May 1998, at 1:00 p.m.

It's been way to many years!!! I've looked at my car, and I'm looking at my manuals. The wiring is very simple. The BIG red one is a no brainer. You will remove the external regulator from the car. Now, assuming that your 142 is the same as my 145, is your car a US model? The wire that plugs onto the "D+" spot on the old regulator is the one you want. It will be the other wire to the new alt. This wire comes from a 6pin connector near the battery, it is also the connector for the front left side marker light. What I did, was to run a new wire from this connector over to the alternator. Plug it in and it works.

Hope this helps. Happy charging!


Re: Alternator Replacement / Modernization[140/73] posted by Jim McDonald on
Wednesday, 20 May 1998, at 5:21 p.m.

If memory serves, the '73 models had a 55 amp alternator[my 145 did]; if your lights are dim, especially if you run lots of them, you'd better rewire the light circuits as well. I'm fond of the idea of using a separate relay for each light, wired directly to the battery[through a fuse, of course]. This saves the hassle of replacing the original wires. On my 544, with 80/100 H4s, I hooked the relays to the battery with 10 gage wire[+ and -].


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2016. All material except where indicated. is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.

Powered by Denizen Motive Forum - Custom Software for Volvo Enthusiasts