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Turbo inspection[240-260/85] posted by Paul S. on
Wednesday, 6 May 1998, at 4:28 p.m.

I'll be ripping the turbo off the exhaust manifold soon.

Is there any bench top inspection I can do on the turbo?

Any turbo tips while the turbo is off the car? I will replace, hoses, gaskets, etc..

Thanks,
--
Paul S. (Mr. Project 245T)


Re: Turbo inspection[240-260/85] posted by Bill on
Thursday, 7 May 1998, at 7:01 a.m.

You can do a little pm work here. Take the oil return tube and make it spotless. Any blockage from oil gunk has to be removed. Some turbo shops recommend replacing it; their warranty is void if you don't! Do the same with the oil supply line. An automotive machine shop vat is a good way to make sure they're clean, or a good soak in carb cleaner. Check the rotating assembly by spinning it by hand; it should rotate freely. Look for any obvious signs of contact, or any damage by debris. You'll need to look as far up in the housing as you can. If you are really industrious, match mark the housings and remove them to expose the impellers. Word of warning here: stripped and broken bolts are common here. Also check for radial clearance in the bearings by moving the shaft perpindicular to its axis. There will be a fair amount of play, but it should not move more than maybe a sixteenth of an inch at the end of the shaft (this is a very rough estimate, use good judgement or get someone with experience on this to check it for you). Another area to examine is the waste gate section. Cracks radiating outward from the hole are common and considered to be normal. Only if they have really opened up, or if there are other cracks through the housing, should this piece be replaced.
Depending on the milage and your wallet thickness, consider a new water-cooled center section and ease your worries. For around $400 you can put your housings on a new cartridge; or they will do it for you (recommended). A shop I would recommend is Turbo Engineering Consultants in Colorado; friendly, easy to deal with. Phone number available if you're interested.
Also check out www.alliedsignal.com/automotive/garret for some good general info and pictures of the innards of your turbo.


Re: Turbo inspection[240-260/85] posted by Bill on
Tuesday, 12 May 1998, at 7:05 a.m.

Another bit of info on the turbo: As I mentioned before, broken or stripped studs and bolts are pretty much the rule on these things. The exhaust studs should be replaced with grade 8 studs. Your local nuts and bolts supplier should have them. An alternative here that I like is to use grade 8 set screws of the proper length (50mm or so). With these you can use an allen wrench to run them in and not bugger up any threads. Where the turbo bolts to the manifold, my original setup had studs screwed into the turbo and the nuts were on the back side of the manifold. The replacement watercooled cartridge had non-threaded holes, so I had to use thru-bolts here (again, grade 8). The problem is that all of these suckers tend to loosen up, no matter how tight I dare pull them. These last four are particularly difficult to get to on the car. What I would suggest (and what I'll do next time it's on the bench) is to either drill and pin these four bolts after tightening, or get some good self-locking nuts that will stand the temperature. Also, the metal gasket at this joint is apparently a Volvo only item; no one else even shows it in their books.




 


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2016. All material except where indicated.



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