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86 240 Just Quit[240-260/1986] posted by Michael Krutolow on
Saturday, 2 May 1998, at 12:15 p.m.
My wife's 86 240 just quit today at a stoplight. Restarted right away and
ran fine. I did notice during the day that there was a slightly rough idle.
Previously had 3 experiences where car seemed to die for split second as
making right turn, hesitated, then ran fine.
Any clues? or where to start? Seems to happen when less than 1/3 of a tank
of gas...maybe fuel line in tank?
Thanks in advance
Re: 86 240 Just Quit[240-260/1986] posted by Stoney on
Saturday, 2 May 1998, at 7:23 p.m.
Well start with the fuel pump relay then check the wiring harness plug at the firewall connection-if the harness is moving when you turn there sould be a separation of the connector/wiring or a momentary short that could be the cause. Then there is the dreaded Pre Pump fuel feed hose-if it is corroded/dried out and crumbly then you could be losing fuel flow during the turn. Also check the connection at the main fuel pump and if it has the big computer box on the right front fender behind the headlight check the connector-the sleeves inside the computer box can bet spread out and lose contact.
And it is definately not the carb as you ride is FI and don't got a carb!
Re: 86 240 Just Quit[240-260/1986] posted by Rob Abel on
Sunday, 3 May 1998, at 8:50 a.m.
You might get lucky and clean the throttle body with a carb-cleaner soaked
rag and see improvement. It does sound like that if the problem wasn't electrical
this time, it will be soon. You have the same biodegradable wiring that my
'87 740 has. I've been replacing wires one at a time as I find them. Also,
because the FI system runs on low voltage it is very susceptible to oxidation/
corrosion at connectors, both power and ground. good luck
Re: 86 240 Just Quit[240-260/1986] posted by Dave Stevens on
Monday, 4 May 1998, at 3:12 a.m.
My vote is with Stoney's second thought, a rotted in-tank pre-pump connector hose. The classic symptoms are as you mention: stalling/coughing with 1/3 tank or less, especially during turning or on steep inclines.
Just for good measure, first inspect/clean both fuel pump fuses and the 20 amp fuel system fuse under the hood on the left fender. To make sure the pre-pump is working: start the engine, remove the gas cap and listen down the filler neck. If you hear a buzz that's the pre-pump working, although the connector hose may still be rotted. If no buzz then the main fuel pump is doing all the work and you are susceptible to vapour lock symptoms. The next test is to pull the main fuel pump fuse with the engine running (it gets hot!), a good pre-pump and connection should keep the engine idling, albeit rough. Of course you could always go about this the long way, just keep the tank over 1/2 full for awhile and see if the problem goes away.
Getting at the pre-pump and connector hose isn't all that difficult for a determined DIY'r, although perhaps a bit more awkward with a sedan than a wagon. You can replace the connector hose with a piece of fuel line (1/4" ID). If you need more details, please re-post, I think I've got some notes.