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Hi everyone !
First: I'd like to apologize to a few folks around here for dropping off the scope and not finishing up some email conversations and getting back to them. Or replying to posted questions...it wasn't due to a lack of caring....it was lack of eyesight ....uggh
Second: PLEASE Always use appropriate eye protection when using compressed air to blow the smutz out of miscellaneous crevices, nooks & crannies ... especially ones that contain battery acid / residue....
So.... a couple of...
Parts:
you should check all of them for pricing & completeness of parts to finish a job....you cannot rely on any local outfits to stock anything for 240s
iPd
[about 1/2 from iPd, a feature I likeon this website you can create an account for each car and shop for parts, and store your parts into "baskets" which you can then order at any time. you can set up and name the baskets by repair job. it's handy to print out and make a shopping comparison chart....order free paper catalog...has go...
Hi Jim,
I doubt very much you have any failed fuel pump. This sounds to me like a failure to get the electricity to the pump, not a failure in the pump.
The pumps will outlive anything else on the car unless continually starved of fuel by a non-operating tank pump or rotted hose in the tank. Even then, the dying pump makes so much noise you'd have to be a teenager with a 1000 watt stereo not to notice its cries for help. In short, look for simpler troubles getting the voltage to the pump,...
Chock the front wheels so it won't roll away from you. Then jack up the rear end with the floor jack under the center "pumpkin" of the rear axle. Once it is way up there, put your jack stands under the factory jacking points on the bottom of the floor underneath the rear doors. You can consult the owners manual to find their exact location (where you would jack up the car to replace a flat tire).
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...current...
FCP Groton: http://www.fcpgroton.com
IPD: http://www.ipdusa.com
Both speak Volvo and have good websites. There are some that will rail on the FCP new layout. The old one was easier to use.
Used both more than 5 times each for orders from $10 to $600, had a minor issue with parts quality quickly resolved. Parts were shipped promptly and orders were accurate. Humans answer the phone and know what they are selli...
If the clutch stops engaging, try this: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=80181
it only takes a few minutes to do, then you will know whether or not there is too much play in the clutch.
Klaus
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I still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :)
The reason for this post is to provide information about the differences and potential advantages (I did say potential) of the LH 3.1 vs. LH 2.4 24x Bricks. Below is a brief list of the technical differences I'm aware of from working with both:
1: Throttle position sensing:
LH 2.4: The throttle position switch is literally two switches in one, one for the idle position, and the other for Wide Open Throttle (WOT). Beyond those two states, the ECU does not know where the throttle is positioned....
Using the instructions found
here - I made a rear trailing arm bushing tool today.
First, I have to say "thank you" to the board members who took the time to take measurements, snap photos, and do the R&D on this tool. I'm sure it's saved many of us a lot of time, money and frustration.
I tried my new tool out on the rearend I dropped from the parts car. The inner sleeves were so far off center that...
It is likely that the aftermarket wheels came with special lug nuts of their own, and some of them were lost or damaged at some point, and replaced with stock Volvo parts. If the lugs are exposed, the ones for the alloys are probably chrome acorn type or similar, for improved appearance, so the difference MAY only be cosmetic. However, it is possible that the angle of the bevel where the nut meets the wheel is different than stock for your wheels, (as far as I know, all Volvo original wheels ca...
Nothing I've read here or in your earlier, related thread convinces me the problem is any more complicated than a failed #1 universal joint.
U-joints should have no appreciable play. When they do they can be louder than you'd expect in a manner that you wouldn't expect. And they're dangerous. It does seem that the forwardmost u-joint fails more frequently than the other two.
The rear end you describe seems normal. A little free rotation at the pinion input as you load up the internals...
The first thing to cover is a "knock sensor" -- this detects "engine knock", which can damage the engine, and to prevent this, if it is occurring, the sensor is connected to circuitry to electronically retard spark timing (and can be successful as long as the fuel is at least 87 A.K.I. -- see below). Advanced timing improves power and fuel economy, but makes engine knock more likely under certain conditions (hot weather and heavy load, such as accelerating); retarded timing prevents knock, but...
A couple of weeks ago our 1985 245 "Daisy" failed the evaporative emission system test on the California Smog Check. The test, at least as it applies to this model and year vehicle was performed as follows:
1. The evaporative line from the gas tank to the evaporative (charcoal) canister in the left front wheel well is pinched off just before it enters the canister.
2. Nitrogen was introduced to the fuel/evaporative system via a fitting that replaced the gas tank cap. The system was pressuriz...
Dave,
You're giving me an idea... What about a parts cross-reference database for our 4/544s? Would contain original part number, optional picture, alternate part numbers, sources, etc. I would be happy to host it on my restoration site. Parts such as the VDO tank sender, lights, switches, fuses, shocks, tires, etc. would be prime candidates. I'm sure that if all the 4/544 Brickboarders put their data together, we could generate a good-sized list.
Thoughts?
--
Tony Scarola
1958 Volvo PV44...
With the exception of the P1800, I have owned at least one example of each of the RWD models. I find your evaluation of them to be well thought out, though biased in favor of the earlier cars. Here are my comments, based on actual experience:
122--You are mostly right on with this one. However, the rubber floor mats are a big minus as they trap moisture and make the floor rot out. With the exception of the 68 (and later, not imported to the US) models, these cars lack important safety features...
©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.
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