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RWD - Noise from rear, on jacks only one wheel turns. Still.

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Noise from rear, on jacks only one wheel turns. Still. 200 1987

After the better part of last weekend, the moose has new parking brake shoes and hardware, new rebuilt calipers, new centric rotors, and new ATE pads. I didn't have new spacers so I reused the old ones. Moving parts are now coated with blue brake anti-seize. The brakes are bled with the Motive in the right order using the Bosch fluid from IPD. The axles came out. The bearings and races looked ok to the untrained eye. The splines looked good. The blue seals looked good and not leaky. The nasty old bearing grease, what little was left of it, is cleaned out and the bearings are repacked with Lucas red & sticky, which had the most wonderful things to say about itself. The differential fluid is still at a good level and only a bit dripped out as the axle shafts came out. The champagne sparkle seen before was from little bit of anti-seize from the threads of the fill bolt. The lug nuts are all carefully tightened progressively to 82 ft-lbs using the star sequence.

And still .... there is progress but the same problems persist. The wheel seems to be trying to turn now. It's slightly better - off the ground it'll go a bit with a little encouragement. The noise seems diminished but remains. It's kind of a scratchy, scraping sound. I think there might be two similar sounds, one that is there anytime the axles are turning and one that chimes in when the throttle is applied.

Engine off, in neutral, the wheel will turn by hand with a small scrape sound about once per revolution.

The parking brake seems to work appropriately now. Way better grip. One thing - if I pull it up after not having it applied it for a while, it gives a little twang like plucking a banjo string as it's on its way to engaging. CB, is this what you were talking about with a stripped sheath and rusted cable? I'm not seeing it but maybe it's somewhere I didn't look at.

The rear flex brake lines looked fine so they stayed. Further reading suggests they may fail on the inside without showing it on the outside, causing the caliper to stick engaged. The brakes are a bit fad-ey. There is no squealing, at least. In turning the hub & rotor by hand, it doesn't feel like the caliper is sticking.

Next steps are changing out the rear flex lines, hiking up the rear and roughing up the rear pressure regulators to get the bubbles off, bleeding again, removing the panhard and inspecting the differential internals.

Any other ideas? And any hints on getting the screw-on retaining ring for the speed sensor off in order to remove the differential inspection cover? or is it better to work the electrical connector loose?

Thanks as always for wise advice and appropriate mockery of rookie errors.


 





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New 1 Noise from rear, on jacks only one wheel turns [200][1987]
posted by  Kindofhandy  on Sun Jul 29 01:52 CST 2018 >

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