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Volvo RWD 200 Forum

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1993 245 200 1993

Ideas!
Oh Boy, now that asking for some guessing from me as I have little experience with ABS.

I have a new to me '92 for only about a year now and cannot tell you if I have ever felt it work.
I have heard the the pedal pluses when it does engage.
A 3 MPH stop sounds like it is way to low to make ABS engage or should I ask, why should it?

How do you know the ABS has taken over?
If the light is flashing on that does not mean it's working but to the contrary.

I have never put much stock into ABS before as I don't want to drive like I need them to begin with.
You could say I'm a fair weather and a distance keeper driver.


With normal brakes, if you feel you have to push harder than normal to get results, the first things that can give you that feeling, would be the loss of power booster assistance.

If the pedal travels farther down than normal, then it maybe losing some fluid power or built up capacity in the chambers some where.

If no leaks are to be found around the car and the level stays up then the master cylinder seals could be seeping internally between front and the rear brakes circuits.

Soft brakes are caused by air in the system. This symptom is not normal found unless at some time or other the fluid ran low in the reservoir or the brakes were recently repaired.


How long has it been since the brake fluid was replaced?

I replace fluid throughout the brake system whenever I am doing a pad service.

FYI, It is actually recommend to be replaced ever two years.

I exchange out the fluid, in the reservoir only about once a year or so.
You could say every two or three oil changes would be the most effective even at the 7,500 interval.

My logic is, the fresh will draw up moisture from the rest of the fluid in the system because the fluid is hygroscopic. The system is pretty much sealed, except for the seal seams themselves so I move the moisture up to where I can take it out regularly.

I use a suction gun or to come clean about it, I use a ham or turkey baster.
My wife gets a new turkey baster more often than we ever have turkey anyways.
(:) Hmmm? (:)
I better go find it before Thankgiving. Luck have it, I might be home this year and then I will be the one that gets shot! (:-(

Just kidding! I have my own baster and a pot to cook my thermostats in. I use clear vegetable oil for temperature testing. I get a more even heating control range, from the top to bottom of the pot, without the bubbles of steam vapors interfering with me seeing the disc crack open.

Oh well, check out the fluid condition. A light medium brown color is allowed but nothing close to dark brown or black as some cars get to be!

I believe that these ABS's are a wee bit less forgiving if their fluid gets wet. Especially with winter coming, that big block of mass under the hood there will suck moisture towards itself from everywhere else in the system.
Winter short trips don't heat that block on the fender much.

Check the vacuum line to the boosters check valve and rock the the check valve in the grommet as if you were taking it out. It should try to suck air in and will let you know it has none inside too!

By doing this you will see if it's holding vacuum after the engine stops. If it leaks down stopped its leaking while running as well. Sometimes the disc on the very top cracks around the center edge.
Are you hearing any sounds od an air leak when using the brakes?
Is the idle doing any short blips of engine speed?


A slight loss of vacuum assistance can make a car feel like you just switched over to drum brakes!

Post back with what you come up with.

Phil


 





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