RWD - front suspension parts- where?

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front suspension parts- where? 200

Suspension parts? Which ones.

I'll bet all of them. I also have a 1990. A 240 DL wagon (P245).

If you buy OEM Volvo parts for your 1990 Volvo 244 DL, but them from Tasca Volvo Parts. They upcharge a mere 10% or so from their wholesale costs.

First and foremost are the failing strut mounts on your 1990 244 DL. Buy only OEM Volvo PN 1272455. Two of them, of course. All after market is crap. Originally built by Made in Germany BOGE (now owned by ZF) with an SKF or a made in Spain open ball bearing race.

Under the black dust cap at the top center of the strut mount, you pack fresh grease, without getting any grease on the rubber bushing material. NLGI-2 SuperLube synthetic silicon grease would be better than hydrocarbon grease.

As you can't purchase Made in Germany BOGE (now owned by ZF) in the Americas ...

As for you owning a BMW, you should already be aware of the degenerate nature of the Made in Chinese junk aftermarket for Volvo. Brands like Meyle come to mind. Failing Meyle brand strut mounts and ball joints as recent replacement on BMW autos can be found across the BMW forums.

If the after market part for Volvo is Made in China, avoid it. Same is true for BMW.

If not from Volvo as OEM, always buy manufacturer that builds the part for Volvo 240.

Why buy an Volvo OEM alternator when Bosch made it? So buy Bosch.

Lemforder is reported by some as of quality and may be the last after market made in Germany for Volvo.

Again, I'd suggest Volvo OEM for the front (small) and large (rear) lower suspension bushings. For the rear (large) bushing, buy two of the passenger side versions of the large (rear) bushings. The driver side large control arm bush has less bushing material to, I guess, lessen vibration transmission to the steering wheel.

Lemforder and possibly Dayna make good outer and inner tie rod ends. Again, OEM is better. Don't buy URO, APA, Febi, and some others.

If the outer tie rods are failing, replace both inner and outer tie rods simultaneously. You'll pack the rack rod gear teeth with an regular NLGI-1 or -2 grease. Pay mind to the proper grease soap complex type as some grease may not be compatible.

You may want to consider replacing the power steering fluid. Your 1990 Volvo 240 should use, if still fitted with the factory pump, Ford Automatic Transmission Fluid "Type F". (The Haynes manual indicates Dexron III, so you can ruin your power steering rack so fast using this Hayne's Volvo 240 power steering fluid spec).

As for replacement strut cartridges?

Say NO to crappy Made in Mexico Sachs. Some retail vendors of crappy Made in Mexico Sachs after market junk will brand it as Boge. Boge bought Sachs, and ZF bought Boge. Again, we in the Americas have to suffer crappy Made in Mexico Sachs.

Bilstein HD won't fit in those strut tubes on your 1990 244 sedan.

Bilstein Touring remains stiff and lasts far longer than most. Bilstein is wholly superior to Made in Mexico Sachs junk.

Remember real Made in Germany Boge Turbo Gas struts and shocks. Those were good. You can buy Made in Germany Boge struts and shocks as Volvo OEM from Tasca Volvo Parts or your local Volvo stealership.

Yes, we call them STEALERSHIPS.

Else, you can choose Koni for Volvo 240. They'll fit your 199 244 DL. Yet one set may cost a good deal. Maybe 500-800$ for Konis.

As for the bad driver seat ... from your local Volvo 240 equipped junkyard, pull the passenger aside front seat cushions from a vinyl seat, and pull acceptable seat back and seat covers. I'll guess cloth? Clean and sew. The springs and seat grid may have failed. Some may use wire rope or some kind of durable rope to remake a seat web with all eight (or ten) springs. You can still buy replacement seat webs from Volvo and after market as OEM.

Hope that helps.


The Best North American Technical Writer. (period)
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New front suspension parts- where? [200]
posted by  bmwjohn  on Tue Jan 27 21:02 CST 2015 >

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