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RWD - 95 940 help with in-tank fuel pump removal

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95 940 help with in-tank fuel pump removal 900

The larger 73 litre (19 gal) tanks in the 94/95 940's had longer sending units than previous 900/700's. Removal is similar to the older units, but as I vaguely recall you need to pull the spring loaded barrel back to complete the removal. You'll definitely need to pull the barrel back for installation. Here are my notes and recollections of 94/95 940 sending unit removal/installation:

Starting at the original 6 o'clock position, pull the unit out of the neck then tip down as you keep pulling out as far as you can, then turn to the 10 o'clock position and continue to tip and pull out until you can grab the barrel and pull it back a bit to allow the end of the unit to come out. Easier to do than describe, at least after the first time.

Re-installation is a bit trickier. You'll need a length of fine string, stout thread or fishing line. Loop it over the fuel pump clip keeping both ends out the neck. Use the loop of string to pull the barrel back as you install the unit. The gyrations are simply in the reverse order. Before starting, get a flash light and observe the anti-splash bucket in the tank -you've got to get the pump and barrel in there and turned back to the 6 o'clock position before releasing the barrel (release one end of the string so you can pull the loop out of the tank). If you do it as I did, the barrel will be pushing against the bottom of the tank before you've got it fully seated in the neck so I had to "bump" the unit into place. A better tip from someone else is to loop the thread out through the capped vent and tie it back so you can fully seat the unit before releasing the barrel (that's one of those "wish I'd thought of that back then" ideas). Getting the unit fully seated flat in the neck gasket before installing and tightening the lock collar is very important -otherwise you will not get a good seal. If the face plate of the sending unit doesn't end up parallel to the inside lip of the lock collar then you didn't get it fully seated. If you later smell gas fumes then you didn't get it fully seated. If you later inspect through the access port and notice a fluid stain on the tank then you didn't get it fully seated. Use good light so you can see what you're doing, but be careful that you don't create a spark hazard that could ignite fumes (like a broken bulb, flicking a switch or even plugging into an outlet).

The plastic lock collar ring threads are easily stripped and it's only supposed to be hand tightened. When working through the access port I like to tap it about 1/16 to 1/8 turn more than my grip can accomplish. If the plastic lock collar does not already have a metal ring clamp around it then I highly recommend going to your local (big box) hardware store and getting a 5" stainless steel ring clamp (stamped SS). Lightly tighten the ring clamp around the outside of the collar before tightening the collar then fully tighten the ring clamp when done.

You will find most of these notes plus those of others in the 700/900 FAQ. Art's fuel sender page is excellent, especially with all the pictures, but don't overlook the resources right here in the 700/900 FAQ.
--
Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 Never overestimate what little I know.

 





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New 95 940 help with in-tank fuel pump removal [900]
posted by  someone claiming to be miracleman49  on Wed Sep 27 10:44 CST 2006 >

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