RWD - Instrument lighting shorted?

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Instrument lighting shorted? 200 1984

A few days ago I tried to fix my hazard light switch, to no avail but not a huge deal. However after I got the dash put back together and left town for a few days I came back to find the battery had drained enough to where I couldn’t start it. I thought it was just because I forgot to turn off the dome light. Come to find out after a jump my instrument cluster lamp (to see gauges and whatnot in the dark) was stuck on. After some tinkering and pulling the cluster back off it was still stuck on. No matter what position the light switch was in my instrument lights stayed on. Then with some more fiddiling my disconnected clock wires started to spark, I’m assuming cause my green wire that lights up my clock was getting power with the rest of the instrument lights. So I quickly disconnected that but now my instrument lights don’t work at all. I’m thinking I shorted out the Rheostat. There’s no continuity off the rheostat anymore. Fuses are all good. I’m guessing I did some serious shorting, any suggestions on how to go about fixing it? I can still get continuity off the Red&White and Gray wires that attach to the rheostat, but the brown (ground right?) doesn’t wanna make my test light light up no matter what I do.

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    Instrument lighting shorted? 200 1984


    First of all the hazard switch in in the console so there is Confusion between instrument lights in the cluster verus the console lights.
    The rheostat is more for the cluster lights but I never noticed if it dims all the lights before, so you got me there!

    Since you were working in the console area and since the lights come on with the headlight switch only you are looking for a hot wire in the wrong place.
    This is what I think has happened, in order fo them on all the time, you are getting power to them from a circuit that is on all the time in the console area.
    This will BACK FEEDing the entire set instruments panel lights irrespective of the rheostat role in things.

    The hazard light system does have power to it on all the time.
    One wire to the socket is hot on to someplace on the switch.
    This is normal so you can throw the flashers on at anytime.
    There is power on all the time to a small clock wire that you may have gotten a hold of or someone may have spliced on to it to get power for a radio's memory source.
    One could learn to hate wires that run wild under a dash! There is enough of them that are not hot wires!

    In some American cars the cigarette lighter has power to it on all the time but since I'm not a smoker I think it only comes on with the ignition switch on the 240.
    These cigarette lighter switches are used more for accessories anymore. The last time I used it I'm pretty sure I had to use my keys!
    The fan blower is the same way as you don't want it working without the keys either.

    With these thoughts, I would go back to where you last tinkered and looked where something got crossed up from a clock as the hazard switch has its on block of wires that go and work through the signal stalk switch, usually?


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