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89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

Hello Fellow Brickers!

My battery died, replaced it, ran for a while, died again. Both times no nothing when turning key to ignition position 1.

Figured ALternator.

Bought a new one, think I got the wrong one. COnfigurations on back where wires from car come in are different and not really compatible....

THe old one is 3 wires with O-ring connectors and a voltage regulator already on the alternator, no wires coming off it.

New alternator only has two post for wires and a weird slot where a small metal tab sits and a female type connector would slide into the slot and over the metal tab inside.

I don't plan on cutting and splicing a new connector on the old wires coming off car. Think I just need to order the right one that is wholly compatible.

I've seen both configurations online, but I think I should stay with the existing, right?





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    89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

    I have purchased two alternators at the junk yard - because of supply and demand, they are dirt cheap.

    Both my failures were almost exactly at 215K

    They both were $30 and were marked with the mileage of the car they came out of - one had 110K miles, and lasted to 185K when I sold the car.

    Get a 100 amp alternator from a 700 turbo. Built in regulator - I think it was a two wire hook up.

    Check the brushes on yours, perhaps you can have it rebuilt with new bearings and brushes for short $$$.





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    89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

    Hi Stallison,

    Sorry to keep you awaitin' a reply to your post.

    "Bought a new one, think I got the wrong one. COnfigurations on back where wires from car come in are different and not really compatible...."

    It helps you lettuce know what brand and model alternator you bought new, model or part number, and from where?

    Bosch indicates their model alternator to fit your mighty 1989 Volvo 240 is Bosch model AL157X. The Alternator is 80-AMP. Volvo PN 5003804, yet 397$ from Tasca Parts in NH-state.

    FCP Euro in Groton, CT provides the info here. You would return your old alternator for the 75$ cour charge. The housing has changed to appear more Denso brand alternator in appearance.

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-alternator-244-245-240-242-740-760-940-dl-745-al157x

    Rebuilt by BOSCH. Don't get that made in chinesium rebuilt stuff. Other here have reported problems and poor rebuild quality.

    Your other option is to enlist a electrical auto repair shop that would rebuild your alt as is. Be certain of price for what you get and that the shop is honest.

    After side connection view:


    I guess includes the pulley also? Call them and ask.


    The Tasca Entry:
    https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/volvo-alternator-5003804

    If factory original, the accessory bushings that comprise the alternator to mount plate hinge assembly bushing may be well worn by now, so the alternator-water pump-harmonic oscillation damper crank pulley.

    Meyle bush backside.


    FCP Euro sells three solid rubber bushing:

    Meyle
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-a-c-compressor-mounting-bushing-1378153

    Genuine Volvo:
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-accessory-bushing-alternator-p-s-pump-a-c-compressor-genuine-463909oe

    And CRP
    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-accessory-bushing-alternator-p-s-pump-a-c-compressor-crp-463909


    iPd in Portland OR offers a urethane accessory bushing:
    https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4762/112309-hd-poly-engine-accessory-mounting-bushing

    Two bushings for the alternator. And one or two each for the A/C compressor and the power steering pump.

    It helps to inspect the wiring harness from termination at the alternator to under the engine behind the crank pulley and up along the intermediate cam hump to the starter solenoid and motor. If you 240 does not have a belly pan, or is leaking oil out the front, the wire harness sheathing and insulation can suffer, deteriorate, and short in spectacular ways. The full battery + power and energy routes un-fused (without fuse protection between the battery and the starter motor and alternator) from the B+ post to the starter solenoid and motor and to the alternator.

    "New alternator only has two post for wires and a weird slot where a small metal tab sits and a female type connector would slide into the slot and over the metal tab inside."

    Metal tab in the weird slot is the D+ exciter wire connector. The wire harness terminates with a 14 or gauge wire with a spade terminal.

    Large post is the B+ heavy gauge wire in red insulation that terminates as a heavy ring term.

    Use one post secured to the alt metal housing to secure the ground wire with ring terms at each end between the alt and the engine block.

    There should be a hex nut nearby by at the motor mount plate or something. Many here would recommend rebuilding this ground connection with one or gauges larger wire with 100°C insulation, in a similar blue, with heavy ring terminals.

    Get wiring diagram! Click Files 240. See here and nav your way to the wiring diagrams here:
    http://www.v8volvo.se/mekartips/volvo/index.html

    The Mitchell Volvo 240 1989.pdf diagram helps you.

    Get your digital electric multimeter out and test the thing. 14.5 volts cold at idle or so. Around 13.8 volts when warmed up.

    The Volvo 700-900 Series FAQ Entry on the Topic:
    https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm

    Questions?

    Hope that helps.

    Buttermilk and Sourdough Bread Boyeeeeeeee



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      89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

      Thanks Buttermilk and sourdough,


      Thanks for all the tips and advice....i took my bellypan off a while ago and never put it back, probablhy part of the problem as the connections are shoddy.

      I am returning the one I bought that I called 'weird.' Got the one that matches my old connectiyons from FCP recently and will be putting that puppy in soon!

      Thanks,


      marc





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      89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

      All,

      I too have just put one of these new type alternators into one of my daily drivers.

      The most difficult part was connecting the ground wire.

      What's interesting about this one is I read between 14.5 and 15.0 VDC at the battery, however my son's phone charger which plugs into the cigarette lighter now only reads 13.4 VDC, whereas before it would read what was being seen at the back of the battery.

      I don't have time to track this down, but at least I no longer have flickering headlights and dash lights.

      Now on to the next problem, because there is always a next problem to fix.

      Ugh. It just never ends.

      Matt





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        89 240 Wrong alternator? 200 1989

        Matt,

        I hear you on the next problem to fix.....labor of love these bricks...

        I decided to not to mess with splicing the wires, so I sent it back and got the one that was exactly like my old one....go figure,


        Guess all I had to do was put a different connector on the ground wire to make it slot onto the indented male peg thingeeeee.....well, perhaps another time..



        THanks,

        Marc





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