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Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

Hi Folks,

I have recently acquired an IPD exhaust header for my 123GT.

Does anyone know which inlet manifold i should use with it? Do I need to cut apart the existing iron manifold to separate the inlet portion?

Thanks for your help!

Andrew





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n.t. 120-130 1967

no text.





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B18/20 IPD header IS JUNK, THOW IT IN THE BIN. 120-130 1967

Upgrade your exhaust buy elongating the downpipes to Volvo Header length and upgrade the exhaust to 2.125" or 2.25" for a stock B18B.

4-1 headers are for high rpm engines with huge cams only. They will actually scoop power away at low to medium speeds to place it high up at it's tuned length and you will NEVER get the SU's to run properly. They sound crappy too.





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B18/20 IPD header IS JUNK, THOW IT IN THE BIN. 120-130 1967

I have to chime in if only to agree with the other posts--especially the ones urging not to cut up your combo cast iron manifold. I am collecting up the carb linkage for a parts customer and was glad to see he was using a '67 manifold. Making stepped washers is easy to accommodate a 544/122 aluminum manifold but why bother when you have a fine one to begin with. Dress up that combo manifold--powder coat it or simply paint it. The first manifold I painted with high temp black turned white with the first start-up and then run to full temp. What worked for me later was to paint it--let dry--run the motor briefly to get the manifold warm--let it cool -- then run it as normal. Looked great for a long time.
BTW--I have a spec sheet buried somewhere for stages of the B20 from "back in the day". Highest hp stage called for a stock FI exhaust (same as your combo exhaust) and a stock downpipe extended 4 inches before the merge to one. That one produced 190hp and run to 9,000 rpm. -- Dave





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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

Agree with Derek and Matt on this one. The one-piece iron manifold on your GT is special and worth keeping, ideally on the car! Good luck with the GT. They are exceptional cars right from the factory.





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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

I have a nice aluminum dual intake, email me for pic's if your interested panel63@hotmail.com





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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

DO NOT cut the 123GT manifold. They are unique, and therefore rare.

Please, do tell more about your car. As I'm sure you know, GTs were never imported or sold in the US, and people are always curious.
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂





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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

Hi Matt, and to all the others who read this - still have not got the hang of this forum, and would like to do a reply all :-) Anyway....

Fear not, I havent done anything to the manifold. The car still has its stock cast iron combo one and Volvo stock exhaust system. This car is a very long story, I will make it brief here but if anyone knows where I can post some sort of a blog I will write a spiel with photos. From what everyone has said - I am not going to change to the 4 branch manifold even though I have the aluminum manifold etc.

I am from the UK originally, came to the US in 1996. In the UK my dad purchased a green 123GT in 1967 and kept it garaged. I got it when I was 17 and cherished the car - it still around, the owner sometimes comes on this board. It was complete, rust free and unmodified. When I left the UK I had to sell it, so I thought, I was given bum info by the moving company and I was heartbroken. When I turned 50 I had a sort of mid life crisis and HAD to get another 123GT.

Not easy to find here, i found out, eventually I got this one from a guy in Portland, OR. The car was in DEPLORABLE condidition. It had been in the previous owners family since new, he inherited it at 15 and proceeded to ruin it completely by stripping out every GT specific part and trying to make it into a hot rod. When I got it the dash had holes hacked in it for aftermarket pep boy style accessories, the interior was shot, the shifter had been cut to accommodate a "coool" gear knob...the list is endless. Over the years he had tried to "repair" floors etc, these were done awfully with what looked like HVAC sheetmetal. It had Cragar SS wheels with massive oversized tires, a Weber carb, and the most sacriligious of all, he had a tiny sports steering wheel on it. How he drove it with those tires on I have no idea. It originally was red, but had been resprayed white for some reason, badly, i.e. all the interior was still red. I bought it sight unseen based on photos, but when I saw it I nearly cried.

This was in April 2016. My goal was to have it on the road and pass PA inspection by October 2016 as I didnt have a garage so wouldnt be able to work on it when winter came in. It was a monumental task...every night I worked on it for 2 hours minimum. Everything had to be replaced..carbs, manifolds, washer bottle.wiring harness, switches, repro GT steering wheel, steering column stalks, very rare Smiths tachometer, interior, dash pad, locks,.. I shut my eyes and sourced all the parts and managed to find even the rare ones like the manifold and the tacho. Some parts like the 123GT relay panel on the inner fender were missing completely so I made one out of sheet steel and used ordinary square relays to be going on with. I deliberately did not add up the receipts of the money I have spent but I am sure it is a small fortune.

But - it all came together, it passed inspection in October, then it was phase 2...regrouping to do all the non urgent bits. BTW - I could not have succeeded with this project without the kindness of others - Agent_Strangelove, Ron Kwas among many others. Still lots to be done - recently I put a reconditioned OD transmission in it, took the axle off and painted it and put new bushings all round, I have a pair of recon 3 bolt SUs I had done in the UK which are as good as new, so they will go on very soon. After that the crossmember is coming off for painting and a rebuild. Amazingly the other day I found an original GT steering wheel and relay plate!!!! So they will go on too and I can take off the awful repro steering wheel.

Once thats done long term is bodywork. The badly repaired floors need to be cut out and done properly, plus the paint job needs improvement. Maybe one day I can strip it to a shell and repaint it in its original color but for now this will have to do. I have tried to make it as original as possible under the circumstances. I also installed air conditioning in it from scratch. Thats another story of many swear words....

Go here for some photos...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzTrAPg_UYr-azlJamRmOWxJMzQ

Andrew





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B18/20 IPD header 120-130 1967

The normal swap is to use the earlier alloy inlet manifold. This is fairly straight forward but the 4 branch and the alloy one don't match up at the fixing studs. You can machine to match or use stepped washers. Frankly the standard GT combined manifold is good and with a slightly larger exhaust system and some very mild engine work is good for about 145bhp. Up the cam to a D or a K if staying with Volvo. Good aftermarket ones are available, not the IPD/Isky ones. 123GT uses a C cam. Your 4 branch will need a suitable exhaust too but with a stock engine will show very little improvement for the cost involved.
All the above IMO. Did you get a 4 into 1 or a 4-2-1? The 4-1 tends to reduce low and torque but helps a fraction over 4k rpm. If you drive at those revs regularly you might just notice it.





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