RWD - front suspension parts- where?

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front suspension parts- where? 200

Just got a 1990 244 DL automatic. 200k until (of course) odometer gear went dead.Still going through - weather still bad. Maintenance? Probably not. Drivers seat is really bad. Light brown cloth and I'm in Indy. Anyway, whats the current view on less expensive suspension parts? Tie rods, ball joints, etc. I need to get this up on a lift. I'm sure there are surprises awaiting. I'd hate to have some mech. point out urgent problem and have to rush to OtterZone. Then I need some cheap trim pieces, be back soon. Plan to be a DD. Thanks!

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    front suspension parts- where? 200


    FCP Euro is a good resource for parts. They sell genuine Volvo (make sure they aren't made in China), and OEM parts from various manufacturers. They have a lifetime warranty on every part they sell.

    Also if you have a local indy Volvo shop, check them for parts. Many are willing to offer free repair advice if you buy their parts and become a regular customer.

    Good luck, Jim

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    front suspension parts- where? 200

    Suspension parts? Which ones.

    I'll bet all of them. I also have a 1990. A 240 DL wagon (P245).

    If you buy OEM Volvo parts for your 1990 Volvo 244 DL, but them from Tasca Volvo Parts. They upcharge a mere 10% or so from their wholesale costs.

    First and foremost are the failing strut mounts on your 1990 244 DL. Buy only OEM Volvo PN 1272455. Two of them, of course. All after market is crap. Originally built by Made in Germany BOGE (now owned by ZF) with an SKF or a made in Spain open ball bearing race.

    Under the black dust cap at the top center of the strut mount, you pack fresh grease, without getting any grease on the rubber bushing material. NLGI-2 SuperLube synthetic silicon grease would be better than hydrocarbon grease.

    As you can't purchase Made in Germany BOGE (now owned by ZF) in the Americas ...

    As for you owning a BMW, you should already be aware of the degenerate nature of the Made in Chinese junk aftermarket for Volvo. Brands like Meyle come to mind. Failing Meyle brand strut mounts and ball joints as recent replacement on BMW autos can be found across the BMW forums.

    If the after market part for Volvo is Made in China, avoid it. Same is true for BMW.

    If not from Volvo as OEM, always buy manufacturer that builds the part for Volvo 240.

    Why buy an Volvo OEM alternator when Bosch made it? So buy Bosch.

    Lemforder is reported by some as of quality and may be the last after market made in Germany for Volvo.

    Again, I'd suggest Volvo OEM for the front (small) and large (rear) lower suspension bushings. For the rear (large) bushing, buy two of the passenger side versions of the large (rear) bushings. The driver side large control arm bush has less bushing material to, I guess, lessen vibration transmission to the steering wheel.

    Lemforder and possibly Dayna make good outer and inner tie rod ends. Again, OEM is better. Don't buy URO, APA, Febi, and some others.

    If the outer tie rods are failing, replace both inner and outer tie rods simultaneously. You'll pack the rack rod gear teeth with an regular NLGI-1 or -2 grease. Pay mind to the proper grease soap complex type as some grease may not be compatible.

    You may want to consider replacing the power steering fluid. Your 1990 Volvo 240 should use, if still fitted with the factory pump, Ford Automatic Transmission Fluid "Type F". (The Haynes manual indicates Dexron III, so you can ruin your power steering rack so fast using this Hayne's Volvo 240 power steering fluid spec).

    As for replacement strut cartridges?

    Say NO to crappy Made in Mexico Sachs. Some retail vendors of crappy Made in Mexico Sachs after market junk will brand it as Boge. Boge bought Sachs, and ZF bought Boge. Again, we in the Americas have to suffer crappy Made in Mexico Sachs.

    Bilstein HD won't fit in those strut tubes on your 1990 244 sedan.

    Bilstein Touring remains stiff and lasts far longer than most. Bilstein is wholly superior to Made in Mexico Sachs junk.

    Remember real Made in Germany Boge Turbo Gas struts and shocks. Those were good. You can buy Made in Germany Boge struts and shocks as Volvo OEM from Tasca Volvo Parts or your local Volvo stealership.

    Yes, we call them STEALERSHIPS.

    Else, you can choose Koni for Volvo 240. They'll fit your 199 244 DL. Yet one set may cost a good deal. Maybe 500-800$ for Konis.

    As for the bad driver seat ... from your local Volvo 240 equipped junkyard, pull the passenger aside front seat cushions from a vinyl seat, and pull acceptable seat back and seat covers. I'll guess cloth? Clean and sew. The springs and seat grid may have failed. Some may use wire rope or some kind of durable rope to remake a seat web with all eight (or ten) springs. You can still buy replacement seat webs from Volvo and after market as OEM.

    Hope that helps.


    The Best North American Technical Writer. (period)
    Writin' technically ...

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      front suspension parts- where? 200

      Doesn't the factory owners call for ATF in the PS Pump? I know the AT calls for DEXRON II, the M-47 manual calls for FORD type F automatic in the manual transmission, but the ATF would be better as type F rather than the dexron used in the tranny? I thought the Bently manual called for Dexron ATF ALSO? Comments?

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        front suspension parts- where? 200

        Uncle bmwjohn,

        Power Steering Fluid.
        Refer to the your Volvo 240 owner manual. Just like my 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon (and the fuel delivery problems I can futz with on Sat-Your-Day ...), a 1990 Volvo 240, with power steering, in the North American Market uses:
        Ford Automatic Transmission Fluid "Type F"

        Use any sort of Dexron in that 1990 Volvo 240 power steering pump, and in about a year the power steering rack seals fail and the inner tie rod boots fill with red fluid.

        Do a search for Volvo 240 owner manual. Include (no quotes) "PDF" your search expression string using your fave search engine.

        The Haynes Volvo 240 repair manual, up to the final imprint in 1997, displays Dexron III as your power steering fluid across all of Volvo 240. WRONG! How do I know? My 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon has a power steering rack, and a pump. The rack is wholly manual, now. No power assist. The Dexron III destroyed the seals, and I need a new power steering rack for my 1990 Volvo 240 DL wagon.

        Automatic Transmission Fluid.
        I dunno the fluid spec for the model range of AW-70 AW 71, and such, on 240, 700, and 900. Read your owner manual. Better yet, search the brickboard. Just be sure to corroborate any information. (Helps to filter out brickboard poster misinformation)

        General Motors owns the Dexron lubricant specification.

        We are up to Dexron V or VI now? In some instances, you would use the new Dexron type. Yet in some instances, a non-GM device on a non-GM car design the device to use Dexron II. In some instances, you want to use the newer lubricant specification. Ask the brickboard, and perhaps turbobricks, what they suggest you use in that Volvo 240/700/900 automatic transmission.

        Manual transmission Lubricant.
        As vvpete here on brickboard or turbobricks. The Volvo 240 owner manual is WRONG.

        The later M45/M46 and all M47 and M47 II Volvo 240/700/900 manual transmission use a gear oil chock full of the same sort of hydrostatic friction that Ford Auto Trans Fluids "Type F" and "Type F/G" and "Type G" serve up.

        You use Volvo OEM Part Number 1161645
        Part Name TRANSMISSION OIL
        MSRP $23.95
        Core $0.00
        Save $9.36
        Online Price $14.59

        (I think that is Tasca Volvo parts price. Copied from my numerous prior post on M47 tranny lube.)

        If you can't swing that, use no less than Redline MTL synthetic fluid.

        MTL = manual transmission lube.

        Go to the Redline website to know what Redline MTL version for M47 (Volvo 240).

        If high mileage, go to the next heavier Redline MTL.

        Search for the Volvo 240 manual transmission overfill method.

        Replace Redline like every 40,000-50,000 at the MOST.

        Do NOT use Ford Auto Trans Fluid Type F in that M47.

        Maybe be okay to use Type F in the M45/46.

        I do not have the Bentley Volvo 240 bible in front of me. It remains well packed and not in reach.

        The Amsoil Super Shift® Racing Transmission Fluid SAE 10W is both Type F and Alison C-4 compatible. Type F and Alison C-4 are very different fluids, yet this fluid works fine so far in two M47 IIs right now, so take that with some salt grains.

        Does that help?

        Happy Friday everybody! Each and every one!

        GO SEATTLE SEAHAWKS!!!!!!!


        Duffy Anchovy.
        Salty Fishies are Anchovies!

        Geely and Volvo. Sweden and China. Huh.

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      don't forget the steering column, and ... 200

      Woops, forgot, ....

      On the steering shaft column, you have the lower and upper U-joints.

      You check for play in these like a RWD drive shaft U-joint, twist fore and aft, and feel for play.

      Usually, it is the lower, larger, steering column, just above the steering rack, that fails first.

      If you Volvo 240 does not have the belly pan, and each and every Volvo 240 must have its belly pan (unless you don't care for your 240), else all works in the engine bay deteriorate somewhat to a great deal faster, without the Volvo 240 under engine compartment belly pan. You can find replaced new at a Volvo 240-equipped yunk yard.

      Volvo OEM and the OEM vendor of the 240 steering column are no longer available, some report. Some may have used new old stock in their possession.

      Else, you have Made someplace in the western Pacific junk from FCP Groton (CT-state) and iPd (OR-state) for Volvo 240.

      Hope that helps.

      You humble, sort of getting tire of them, Volvo 240s, owner and operator.
      Waitin' for that 2016 model year made in Sweden Volvo 164 or 242 GT ...

      Waitin' a looooooooooong time ...

      So long.

      Say "Made in Europa".

      So long.

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    front suspension parts- where? 200

    Got a good pair of outer tie-rod ends (about 25k easy miles on mine) that you can have for shipping costs. From 28211
    82 242 5.0L; '10 Cayman S; '15 Honda Fit

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    front suspension parts- where? 200

    Hope this will help a little-IF you are willing to pay shipping: (from California) Dave-my long trusted mechanic- has "tons" of good used parts or can get them for you. Call him at (510)395-2360 (please don't call him before 9am or after 7pm pst.) Good luck.

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