http://www.brickboard.com/V8/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2008, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 11 Oct 2008 23:09 GMT Sat, 11 Oct 2008 23:09 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 120 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I do, almost every day. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1293370/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Sun, 3 Aug 2008 04:14 GMT So you are in the New England area? When I was reading your description of the 780, I was thinking it sounded like Steve's car.%0D%0A%0D%0ASwedish Car Day is coming up October 19, can you make it?%0D%0Ahttp://www.larzanderson.org/%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1305423/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 2 Oct 2008 04:40 GMT Hi Greg,%0D%0A%0D%0AI would love to make it out to SCD, but I live in Pittsburgh. I'm going on a tour of Dynatech facility in Ohio on 10/18. They are a race shop and Superformance dealer, having an open house for the local Mustang clubs.%0D%0A%0D%0ASteve is now thinking about swapping an LS1 into a Porsche 944.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy brother lives in Georgia (with the 780). He met someone down there with a supercharged 5.0 in a 745 (this car was on ebay several months ago, I think the guy ended up keeping it).%0D%0A%0D%0AAndy http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1305526/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 2 Oct 2008 19:11 GMT I am exploring options for a V8 conversion and i am just wondering what the limits are of the stock differential on my '88 780. Is it possible to fit a ford 8.8 back there? If so how hard is it?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1302057/hp_limit_780_rear_end.html?rss=1 Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:01 GMT I just picked up an 88 780 and am exploring the same options. I believe that it would be possible to swap the rear axle with one from a 765. The only dimension change between those cars is 1" on the wheel base. The track appears to be the same. My project is for a higher hp touring car with an eye for longer term parts availability. Seeing the B280F in place made me think that the V8 option is a no brainer!%0D%0A%0D%0ARegards,%0A--%0AWill Dallas, www.willdallas.us, www.willdallas.org, www.willdallas.com, www.dallasprecision.com 86 245 DL 222K miles, 93 940 260K miles, 88 765 GLE 152K miles http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1305456/hp_limit_780_rear_end.html?rss=1 Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:25 GMT What are the odds that another guy named Andy has a V8 Volvo? I am on my 3rd!!! %0D%0AThe first was an '86 745 with a 5.0 and AOD w/shift kit. The second was an '89 780 with hipo 5.0 and T-5 (Edelbrock heads, Cobra intake, etc.). Now I have a '91 745 with a 5.0/AOD from a '91 Lincoln LSC. The drivetrain is bone stock. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe '86 745 & '89 780 were both converted by my friend Steve Rose. The '86 was purchased by a guy who *had to have it*, it wasn't actually for sale! My brother now has the Bertone as his daily driver. I bought the '91 745 on ebay a couple of years ago, it had already been converted in-house by Ross Converse. I've had some teething pains with it, but now with a ~new fuel pump it's running great. %0D%0A%0D%0AAndy Schor http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1305360/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Wed, 1 Oct 2008 22:19 GMT I read it with great interest but in some periods, like the last few weeks, I may be offline from it. I wish it had more traffic.%0D%0A%0D%0AAndy%0D%0A1986 745 w/ 1990 5.0 & T5%0A--%0A- http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1305355/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Wed, 1 Oct 2008 21:45 GMT A couple of times a week http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1299352/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Tue, 2 Sep 2008 12:18 GMT hey guys, been awhile.%0D%0A%0D%0ALong story short, abought two years ago I had to get rid of my old 240 wagon. I just got a 240 sedan a few weeks back and now, i'm trying to get back into the swing of things. %0D%0A%0D%0AI'm looking to do a 350 swap (LT1, LS1....maybe LS2? Don't know yet) in the foreseeable future. I Thought I remember reading a few years ago that when you do a V8 connie on a 240 you need to consider heavier front springs? %0D%0A%0D%0AMy question: Has anyone here done a V8 conversion using Kaplhennke's coil over system? They say they provide you with a spring set to suite your preference but....what about heavier motors? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1303569/kaplhenke_coilovers_v8.html?rss=1 Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:17 GMT great reply...thanks!%0D%0A%0D%0AI've been going back and forth with Ben actually. He's confident that he can provide me with a spring that'll suite both the B230 in there and whatever V8 I decide to go with. Except maybe the old school die cast 350.....they weigh a lot. But the LS1 only weighs 80 lbs more than the B230.%0D%0A%0D%0Ayou mentioned something about swaybars smaller than 25mm....I'm not sure I understand why? I've got the IPD front and rear swaybars and they're both 25mm (maybe 22mm on the rear....i don't remember which exhaust configuration i have under there).....why would I need to go smaller? Too stiff otherwise? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1304227/kaplhenke_coilovers_v8.html?rss=1 Fri, 26 Sep 2008 12:41 GMT Yeah, I think that as long as you use a stiffer than stock spring, it should work all right with the redblock or the V8. So probably something at least 200 lb/in. Like you said, the V8 conversion doesn't always add a TON of weight.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs for the sway bars, yeah, if you had really stiff springs, then the 25mm would probably be too stiff, causing you to lose some traction.%0D%0A%0D%0AI had said that the Volvo V6 bar was 23mm, but I believe that they did also come in something like 21. A guy I know has a 260 front bar that is smaller than 23 mm. So there are some choices there.%0D%0A%0D%0AFor the rear, if you have a dual under axle exhaust, then you're stuck with the older style IPD bars in either 25 or 22. (The new IPD single humps may not clear, but I haven't seen them in person yet)%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1304340/kaplhenke_coilovers_v8.html?rss=1 Fri, 26 Sep 2008 21:29 GMT You will probably want stiffer springs anyways, to improve handling in general. A lot of people with V8 conversions just use aftermarket lowering springs which are generally about 10-20% stiffer than stock, stock being somewhere around 150 lb/in or so. (240 Fronts)%0D%0A%0D%0AAnother option would be the diesel springs, which are stiffer. You might need to cut them depending on how much weight you actually have.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you are considering coil-overs, then I have to assume you care more about handling than ride quality? You could just call Ben and see what he suggests for spring rates. He may suggest that you build your car first, and then see how much it weighs front and back.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhen I do coilovers, I will probably use around 350 lb/in springs in the front with about 250 in back. Note that you will need Konis to deal with this, or have Bilsteins custom valved. Ben covers all this though. Also, with these kinds of spring rates, you will want sway bars smaller than 25mm.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe only option there would be the Volvo 23mm V6 front bar, which can be hard to find. %0D%0A%0D%0ACall Ben and ask, because I'm no expert. I'm just going off of what I have picked up from Turbobricks and other sources over the years.%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1304193/kaplhenke_coilovers_v8.html?rss=1 Fri, 26 Sep 2008 03:27 GMT I have a 1968 P220. I've been entertaining thoughts of a Buick / Land Rover 215ci v8. I'm sure someone here has either done this or knows something about it. I'm not sure how easy this motor would be able to find. When was it last produced? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1301603/215_220.html?rss=1 Sat, 13 Sep 2008 14:57 GMT Dave, Thank you for your most informative post . In your first post you mentioned that you had several motors and parts. Would you be able to supply me with what I would need for the conversion? I did search online and found many suppliers, D&D was one of them. I'm just looking for a reliable daily driver.It would be a five speed. What could be done about the rear end? I'm always reading about using one from a P-1800 , I guess mainly for the disc brakes. I'm thinking about the ford axles and brakes from ,I think it's vintage. I think I have a lot of homework to do before the first wrench comes out. Thanks again. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1302499/215_220.html?rss=1 Wed, 17 Sep 2008 23:42 GMT I doubt you really need to do anything to the rear for now. It can handle the torque of the 215. You won't be increasing the weight of the car and unless you're running it on a road course or doing mountain driving the brakes can handle any normal speeds. The very low rear end ratio will be a disadvantage but you can deal with that later--you'll have enough on your hands to procure and fit the motor/transmission. One thing I learned about long term projects is to allow yourself some satisfaction along the way. With the original rear the car will be a rocket from a standstill. Enjoy it while you can. Fuel mileage friendly ratios/disc brake rear can be be a project for a future date. I have one Rover and two Olds motors available and will send you an off the board note with the details in the near future. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1302946/215_220.html?rss=1 Sat, 20 Sep 2008 16:28 GMT The rear diff will take 450-500 hp because you can't put much rubber on the rear of the vehicle. 215-225 mm wide tires are max.%0D%0A%0D%0A I'd worry more about the axles and arms if it is an IRS car.%0D%0A%0D%0A You can swap in a 1041 axle/arms but you will lose ride quality. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1302715/hp_limit_780_rear_end.html?rss=1 Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:33 GMT As far as which motor to use-GM or Rover-I think that depends on the intended useage. For a street car, stock or warmed over it probably doesn't matter. There are differences in the alternator, p/s and a/c mounting systems--so one may suite you better than the other. For all out performance the fact that Rovers have a forged crank may be a factor. That may not be a big concern because there are folks who built up high HP motors using the GM motor and I don't thinks crankshafts were a problem. The turbocharged Olds version had steel rather than cast iron main bearing caps. Availability--GM built around 3/4 million of them so if you look around you will find one. I was in (south) FL a few years ago and saw loads of Rovers. An imported car wrecking yard in my area deals in Rovers-they get $2,000 for a motor. I paid $400 for one Oldsmobile and $100 (pre-skyrocketing scrap prices)for another-both running cars and made swaps for other motors/parts. Oldsmobile versions have a combustion chamber similiar to the B18/20 -- Buick/Rover almost a hemispherical design. Olds motors have flat top pistons and control compression ratio with the deck height of the head. B/R have recessed pistons. Intake and exhaust manifolds, water pumps and front timing covers have differences but are interchangeable. I latched onto an original GM bell housing that had bosses machined for the original 3-speed and for the BW T10 4-speed--which my '84 Camaro T5 bolted up to straight away. I would think the BW 5-speeds in Jeeps-and/or maybe the Chevy S10? (top mounted shifter) might work for you in the 220. Sources of info--Hot Rod Magazine did a big article on the motors when current--and later in the 80's they took anther look. You can find these on ebay--I have them buried somewhere and could copy the aricles for you. There's a soft covered book--V-6 Performance by Pat Ganahl--that has useful information-(the Buick 231 was based on the 215 V8). Sources of parts--the usual gasket and parts manufacturers still have parts available--and, although I had a bad experience with them (poor, indifferent and nasty service bordering on the absurd), D&D Fabrications in Michigan (they have an online catalog now) have EVERYTHING you'd need. I understand they now have someone other than the owner doing the mail order side of the business so maybe things are different. When I was training as a Honda tech (about a 100 years ago) they stressed service--and showed a survey that said customers with a positive experience would tell 2 people--a bad experience-12. I'm way beyond 12 now. Good luck with your project and don't hesitate to get in touch if you have any questions. -- Dave http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1302394/215_220.html?rss=1 Wed, 17 Sep 2008 14:07 GMT Now I'm really excited. Thanks for your reply. Would it be better to use the GM motor or the english {rover}? Carburation or FI? What is a good source for parts? So many questions. I do want a 5 speed. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1301741/215_220.html?rss=1 Sun, 14 Sep 2008 01:42 GMT Wow! this thrills me. I'm a great fan of the 215 and built an Olds powered 265 nearly 20 years ago. We had it on the road 10 years, 150k miles. I'm in the middle of redoing it now--new donor body, out with the auto-in with the 5-speed. There's great interchangebility between the GM and Rover versions--oil filter angle, water pump size, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds -- so you can tailor to what you have rather than doing big surgery to make things fit. Even in low compression, 2bbl form the motor has vastly more torque than the 4 cyl--driving is effortless. It's a very oversquare motor so it likes to rev. It has a long and impressive racing history---Formula 1 champion twice--raced at Indy, CanAm, Bonneville, etc., etc. It weighs exactly the same as the B18/20 so springs and shocks can handle it easily. Before my slushbox gave up it got 21mpg--that's without a long, cruising, top gear. The 4.10 or 4.56 rear gears you have may be VERY short but the T5 stick shift has a fairly long top. And the GM automatics--200 and 700 series can be adapted. I have a few complete motors and many parts--timing covers, cyl. heads. New parts are readily available--there is interchangability with the Buick V6. Crower makes 12 grinds of camshafts. Should I go on? OK-- Mount it low--mount it as far back as the 4 sits--it'll handle just like a Volvo. I welded a B20 oil pan to the Olds flange (made a new oil pick-up) so it fits down properly. You can bring it up to a full 5 litres if you like. It'll be tight side to side in the 220 but worth the effort to get done. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1301631/215_220.html?rss=1 Sat, 13 Sep 2008 17:33 GMT I look at this site about once a week or so. I am almost done with my V8 242 so it fun too see what other people are up to.%0D%0A This is the second V8 Ive had in this car. The first was a pretty healthy 355" chevy with trick flow heads and alot of other stuff. The trans is a T56 and the rear end is stock with a 4.10 gear set and true torque locker. One of those dash mounted G meters put the horse power at 347 at the wheels. I took it to the track a couple of times but it never did real well due to lousy 60 foot times (so so tires). The best it did was 13.40 @ 104 mph. The 60 foot times were about 2.2 seconds (really bad).%0D%0A This new engine is a 383 chevy with Dart heads and a couple of T3-4 hybrid turbos. Ive been at this swap for a couple of years now and it ran for the first time a week or so ago. Still have some details to work out. %0D%0A I really just enjoy the building of the car as much as driving it. Fitting the two turbos in has been a real chalange. I envy people with great big engine compartments. %0D%0A I any one is intrested I could fill in the details and baybe post a few pictures. %0D%0A Thanks%0D%0A 18 http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1300064/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Fri, 5 Sep 2008 22:26 GMT Damn, of course we're interested! Why don't you start a new thread with some pics? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1300065/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Fri, 5 Sep 2008 22:34 GMT Well, that's why I posted this, to see who is around. If you asked a question, you'd probably get an answer... eventually.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs for your sale post, I read it, but what kind of comments were you expecting? Your post doesn't really say much, and there aren't any pictures.%0D%0A%0D%0ATurbobricks is more lively for selling this kind of stuff.%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295335/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Wed, 13 Aug 2008 02:47 GMT still around, but read to sell the brick. Love the fun, but bought civilization finally. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1298909/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Sun, 31 Aug 2008 03:02 GMT I read it.%0A--%0ALeon Ramseur, Gastonia, NC, 2001 V70T5. 1993 940 Wagon. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1298977/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Sun, 31 Aug 2008 15:43 GMT I check in occasionally, but it has been slooooooooow. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1293454/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Sun, 3 Aug 2008 16:03 GMT I've been having an ongoing but intermittent issue with my car. The drivetrain is stock '91 Lincoln LSC (5.0 w/AOD). It has been driving fine for several days. Today it started up and idled OK, but when I accelerated up the hill it sputtered and would not rev past 3500 rpm or downshift. When I back off the throttle, it will idle and will accelerate gently (thanks to the V8's torque) uphill. I suspected the fuel pump and have a test light connected to it. The light stayed on throughout the event (suggesting that the FP is not the issue). This scenario has occurred in similar fashion a few times, then magically it will run fine again until the next occurance. On days when it runs fine, it runs great! %0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0AAndy Schor%0D%0A'91 745 V8%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294132/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Wed, 6 Aug 2008 19:40 GMT Sure enough, although the fuel pump tested OK it evidently *was* the culprit. Replaced with a known good used one, the car is running fine. Hooked up the old one on the bench and it ran after a smack of the hammer.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for the input,%0D%0A%0D%0AAndy http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1298819/need_diagnostic_helpfollow.html?rss=1 Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:57 GMT Disconnect, clean and smear a little dielectric grease around on the "10 prong" plugs attached to the back of the plenium, one is white and the other is black. Fords are famous for this connection failing. There was a recall and they added a short extention with better fitting plugs.%0D%0AStart the car, wiggle the plugs around and see what happens.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295701/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Fri, 15 Aug 2008 04:24 GMT hi wongg...to answer your questions, I just put the post out there as a feeler....keeping it short and sweet semed appropriate to me and posting pictures is a pain on this board, though I do have some pics available that I was planning on sending to anyone interested. As for what comments I was expecting, I guess I was hoping to get in touch with any interested parties from the v8 board. Pretty straightforward stuff.%0D%0A%0D%0AMaybe I will check out turbobricks, but just the name itself suggests it's not the place to find v8 info. thanks for the tip.%0D%0A %0D%0AI'll probably scrap the car since I can't use it and nobody seems interested. It seems a shame to me since the car is already set up for a v8 drivetrain. oh well.%0A--%0A1978 242 285k (gone) / 1987 240 wagon 250k / 1990 240 wagon v8 project http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295474/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Wed, 13 Aug 2008 21:17 GMT Turbobricks is really for anyone who has a (mostly RWD) Volvo and likes performance. While it's true that there are some closed-minded folks there who frown on V8 swaps, I don't let them bug me. There are a bunch of people on there with V8 Volvos, and you would probably have much better luck there.%0D%0A%0D%0AThey WILL pester you if you don't have pics there, though.%0D%0A%0D%0AFunny thing about the V8 haters, none of them have every said anything bad to my face, in person. I have to wait and read their comments online to see how they really feel.%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295547/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 14 Aug 2008 02:58 GMT i check it often but have noticed it's not seeing much activity at all. i posted a volvo v8 project car for sale and did not get one comment or response...which seems like a pretty good indication that traffic on the v8 part of this site is wayyyy low.%0D%0A%0D%0Amakes me wonder what it's gonna be like in the fall when i start my volvo 240 v8 project...hmmm%0A--%0A1978 242 285k (gone) / 1987 240 wagon 250k / 1990 240 wagon v8 project http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295166/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Tue, 12 Aug 2008 06:24 GMT I check in every week or so. Seems pretty slow though.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust finished my 940 Chev LS2 swap. Light motor and fricking RIPS compared to the old small block. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294937/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Mon, 11 Aug 2008 09:47 GMT Yeah, this forum is pretty slow. It's awesome that there are people who are finishing projects, though! Is the LS2 all aluminum? What trans?%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295151/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Tue, 12 Aug 2008 02:59 GMT once a week got new car 1982 black wagon IPD everything chevy 350 new paint this car is sweet cant wait to get it fired up http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294876/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Mon, 11 Aug 2008 00:01 GMT Where are you located? Be sure to get some pics up soon! http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1295150/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Tue, 12 Aug 2008 02:57 GMT This morning (Saturday) the car didn't start at all. The starter cranks but engine won't turn over. A couple of times it seemed like it was going to start, nope not today. The fuel pump test light was lit, fuel tank ~1/4 full. Now that I think about it there have been a few times that it had some difficulty starting, but eventually caught and ran OK afterwards. %0D%0A%0D%0ALast summer (in an attempt to solve this same ongoing issue) my mechanic tried swapping in an ECU from a FLAPS, but he said it ran better with the original one which I believe is from the '91 LSC (this was a Converse in-house conversion). Maybe the replacement was defective off the shelf? %0D%0A%0D%0AI still believe that it's something (relatively) simple, what am I missing?%0D%0A%0D%0APossibly tune-up related (plugs/wires/cap/coil)? Is there a throttle position sensor on this engine? Ignition module? %0D%0A%0D%0AThe symptoms are "all or none", meaning that it's either fine or or it's running like crap (not a gradual degradation).%0D%0A%0D%0AArgh. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294671/still_need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Sat, 9 Aug 2008 20:22 GMT Haveyou tried calling Ross At Converse engineering? If you need his number check his website. Also check for proper voltage to the Ford ignition coil and check the coil itself. Historically the these coils were designed by GM and had problems like you describe. check fuel pressure also and the EEC power relay and the Fuel realy operations. Hope this helps. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294709/still_need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Sun, 10 Aug 2008 00:26 GMT After driving well this morning, the car had a rough time starting then ran crappy again. I limped it home and switched to the red block ('88 745T with 330K miles) for reliability. The difficulty starting (cranked but not quite turn over, then started but ran rough) might suggest cap/wires/plugs, but why would it run fine then funky? Presumably it will run well again without being touched...then rough again intermittently... http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294333/still_need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 18:36 GMT I visit every few days. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294502/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Fri, 8 Aug 2008 18:35 GMT When I want something or when I need an answer on the various quirks of my 240, 850 or 760, I generally look here first. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294566/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Sat, 9 Aug 2008 02:24 GMT What would you recommend? I will be swapping a 350 sbc into a 1990 740 SE turbo. I currently have an M21 (close ratio) but I am thinking of selling it to get a T5 instead. My engine put out about 380hp. Can a "good" T5 handle the torque? I would prefer a T5 because of the overdrive obviously, but also because the shifter bolts up on top, centered on the tailshaft. The M21's shifter is of to the side and I think that would interfere with the center console inside the car. As for the bellhousing, would you recommend a '84-'88 Corvette bellhousing or a regular bellhousing with a hydraulic throughout bearing such as a Howe or McCleod? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294278/bellhousingtransmission.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:19 GMT The T-5 should be able to handle the torque if you are not drag racing it all the time. As far as I know, the best T-5s are not really rated for that much torque, though. (If you make about 360-380 lb-ft). You can beef them up with aftermarket rebuild parts if you are worried, I think you can make it good up to 500 lb-ft, but then at that point you are spending as much as a TKO. Advantages are that the T-5 is still lighter and smaller.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe stock T-5s with a short shifter also shift nicer than a TKO with a short shifter. I don't know how the beefed up T-5s shift. Google G-Force.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat other tranny options do you have? Can you use a TKO-500?%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm not familiar with your bellhousing options, but I am partial to the hydraulic throw-out bearings. I like the theory behind them, and I like how mine works, but setting them up is kind of a pain. It's definitely more work than a cable clutch, and will cost more.%0D%0A%0D%0AGot any pics?%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294421/bellhousingtransmission.html?rss=1 Fri, 8 Aug 2008 02:47 GMT Greg, thanks for the info. I heard the T5's are ok unless you beat on them all the time. Also, street tires are sort of a safety valve for the tranny. As for the bellhousing, it will depend on how much money the local salvage yard wants for the corvette ones. No pics yet, the car looks kinda rough right now, but it is currently white with the original Volvo body kit. Similar to this one.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k65/themadchigga/mah%20carz/DSC02398-bw.jpg%0D%0A%0D%0AMine will be black or silver with TSW snetterton wheels.%0D%0A%0D%0AMarty http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294461/bellhousingtransmission.html?rss=1 Fri, 8 Aug 2008 14:12 GMT Hi guys thanks for responding. It is a stock FI, worth a look to see if the throttle body is sticking. I have changed the fuel filter then R & R'd it for inspection (clean and clear). %0D%0A%0D%0AIt rained here on Tuesday, the car sat outside (wasn't driven) then ran poorly on Wednesday. Maybe this is a red herring, but I thought I'd mention it. Moisture under the distributor cap? %0D%0A%0D%0AFuel level between 1/4 and 1/2 full (93 octane). I have considered this possibility. It doesn't seem to happen on a full tank but that could be unrelated. Up or down hills, left or right turns do not seem to have any effect. But... %0D%0A%0D%0AToday (Thursday) it started right up and ran well. It upshifted at ~5K on WOT. I haven't bought gas yet, so the fuel level is about the same. Well slightly less after a couple of WOT runs ;>)%0D%0A%0D%0AIt has done this in the past as well. Hence the term 'intermittent'. To me it means that nothing is actually broken. It has been quite frustrating. I have a few errands to run this afternoon, will see how she runs and report back. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks again,%0D%0A%0D%0AAndy http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294282/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:36 GMT Yeah, I guess it could be weak spark as well. I had a 240 that did stuff like that, but it was clearly linked to wet weather, and it went away when the car warmed up and dried out.%0D%0A%0D%0AI guess you should start with the basics, and clean all your grounds. Clean electrical connections to the coil. Replace maintenance items like cap & rotor and plugs if they haven't been in a while. Wires, too, if they are old.%0D%0A%0D%0AIntermittent problems are the worst. I've been dealing with one with a piece of gear at work.%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294422/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Fri, 8 Aug 2008 02:52 GMT I'm still around. I'm writing up an ad to sell my 1990 740 Wagon with 5.0 HO & T5. It runs great but I have more cars than garage space. Greg, I met you at Volvo show at Larz Anderson. Any suggestions as where else to advertise? Craigslist, I guess. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294287/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 14:59 GMT Hey Bob! I figured you had sold your car a couple of years ago. Are you on Turbobricks? That would be a good place to put an ad. I think you'll need to be a member to post a classified ad.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat other cars do you have?%0D%0A%0D%0AGood to hear from you!%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294383/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 22:48 GMT I do occasionally, I have been working on my other car project but I am about to start my first V8 swap into a 1990 740 turbo SE. I am sure I will be visiting more often in the near future. I actually have a question regarding bellhousing/tranny, I will start a new thread. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294270/roll_call_still_reads_board.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 13:59 GMT Even if your fuel pumps are running ok, it could still be a fuel problem. It sounds like a fuel problem. Could also be some kind of spark misfire problem.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhen was the last time you changed your fuel filter? That could be clogged, but I thought that when that happened, the symptom is not intermittent.%0D%0A%0D%0AIs your problem coincidental with fuel level at all? I believe that on the 700/900s, there is a short bit of flex hose from the in-tank pump to the hard line. This hose can get a hole in it, so when fuel sloshes back in the tank, you could lose fuel delivery. Then if you have a full tank, the problems go away. Just an idea.%0D%0A%0D%0AHave you checked your fuel pressure at all? Do the pumps ever sound different?%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294201/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Thu, 7 Aug 2008 03:44 GMT Is your 91 785 with a Ford 302 fuel injected or carb? I assume FI, so check the throttle body to find out why it is not getting enough air when you floor it. If it is a 4 barrel carb, check that the extra 2 barrels are not opening until the throttle is at WOT.%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AI still miss my 164 and my 854T. Just driving a V70R :) http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1294151/need_diagnostic_help.html?rss=1 Wed, 6 Aug 2008 21:55 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/