http://www.brickboard.com/V8/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2010, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 21 Mar 2010 23:09 GMT Sun, 21 Mar 2010 23:09 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 120 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I sorta agree. I started out with a $4,000 budget with the wife. Really low (11k) mileage engine/transmission, headers, complete rework of brakes and shocks, tires and the budget is about gone. Engine is still hanging on the engine crane. And I probably should replace the steering rack with 183K/28 years. Already bought the windshield wipers and antifreeze though. All those saying $2k are reusing the old windshield washer fluid. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1409968/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Tue, 16 Mar 2010 02:37 GMT Having done a couple 242 rebuilds, and a hot rod truck and a Porsche and a few others.... I think you will be REALLY hard pressed to get the car close to where you want it for less than 10k. The ONLY exception is if you have a fully operational foundry and machine shop.%0D%0A%0D%0AWith that said, go for it! There is no better school than the school of hard knocks.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck!%0D%0A%0D%0AAndrew http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1409963/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Tue, 16 Mar 2010 02:17 GMT Hey gang. I am new user and I aplogize if I am asking old questions. I have been intrigued by the thought of doing a V8 swap into a brick but wasnt sure if I was up for the task of doing it. As it turns out, I recently found a 1980 244 that has a Chevy 350 (I know the Ford 302 is lighter but if it is already set up for a chevy I'llmake it work) and a Turbo 350 AT tranny already in it. He is asking only a few hundred dollars for the car since it appears to need to an engine rebuild. I want to jump on this but I have a few questions that I need help with before I do. And all help/assistance is very much appreciated!%0D%0A%0D%0AThe Chevy 350 is apparently from an old 1970s C10 pickup. It has a mild cam and a weiand intake. Will the fact that this is from a truck make a difference in performance? Would it make more sense to rebuild this one or look for another high output 350 to swap? %0D%0A%0D%0AThe owner said it needs a speedo cable adapter in order to get the speedo to work with the GM tranny. Any idea what I will need and where to get it?%0D%0A%0D%0AIf I ever need to replace the motor mounts, would I get those at the JTR web site or are there any mounts from other cars that work?%0D%0A%0D%0AI want to put on the IPD lowering springs and anti-sway bars. Can I do these with the extra weight of the V8? Ideally I'dlike to get the IPD rims as well but I may have a lead on a set of rims from a 960. WIll these work?%0D%0A%0D%0AHow easy is it to get all of the essential gauges to work with the new power plant?%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm sure I'll have more questions. I just want to see how much trouble/work I am looking at with the current issues with the car. I really want this car.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0A%0D%0Aknotthead%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1406126/284_questions.html?rss=1 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 15:40 GMT By far, the simplest solution is to put a long block rebuild in. The SBC 350 came in so many versions over so many years you could take your pick on compression and I suspect everything else would just bolt up. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1406258/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Mon, 22 Feb 2010 12:43 GMT I have done the Converse installation into a 740 diesel. Still going strong after 10 years. I would be happy to share my experiences (although I warn you it's been 10 years).%0D%0A%0D%0AContact me off line at pcohen@earthlink.net http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1404716/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Mon, 15 Feb 2010 02:12 GMT I posted the following in July, now have a Mountaineer 302 hanging in the engine bay and have questions.%0D%0A%0D%0AWednesday, July 15, 2009 7:47 AM%0D%0A"Been wanting to put a V8 in my 1982 245 Diesel Wagon for the 12 years since the engine died. . . . Found a 2000 Mountaineer 302/transmission in a local recycling yard. It has 11k miles, been in inside storage for 8 years and would include everything from fan to drive shaft, including wiring harness and computer, MAFS to O2S and all accessories ie: alternator, starter, PS pump, AC compressor. Would like to end up with a car that looks factory. Seen pictures of very good ones and others. . . . Would you folks comment on how deep a hole I am digging myself? The wife has said get it running or get rid of it."%0D%0A%0D%0AThe engine/transmission appear that they would fit the engine bay fine if I had a smaller oil pan. Pulled the pan and the engine slipped right in but there was not room to put the pan back on. Pulled engine, installed pan and dropped front cross member/suspension. Now cannot raise cross member without raising engine above hood height.%0D%0A%0D%0ADiscussed with friendly, neighborhood salvage yard and they did not show a lower profile pan. The Explorer/Mountaineer appears to be built with no consideration to lower space due the high ground clearance. What other Ford/Mercury products might have a smaller pan? Or am I missing something entirely? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389054/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Nov 2009 22:35 GMT If you have access to or can fabricate yourself, modify the block side Ford mount to accept Chevy style mount on frame. That will rotate the attaching bolt geometry to something thats easier to access. Front to back rather than side to side. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398667/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:11 GMT This is probably too late to help much but I have done a few of these conversions and may partner and I used to manufacture kits to drop in a Mustang HO engine and tranny in both 200 and 700 models. We owned the Canadian rights to the Converse kit for a time and used Ross's well proven kit for the base for our kit. We did a lot of changes on hoses etc. to make it easy to install. After selling over 30 kits and installing 7 or 8 of them we quit as sales were too low to continue. The mustang engine is near perfect for this purpose because it has the lowered oil pan that straddles the Volvo x member, it has tube headers that clear everything except the right frame rail but are easily bent towards the engine to provide the clearance needed. If the tubes cracked while bending they could be mig welded back to near perfect. We never had to reroute anything to do with the heater because we provided formed heater hoses and fittings so that the hoses ran in behind the engine. It is a challenge for the first one or two but you end up with a better car than Volvo ever thought of. The basic car is tough and reliable but that under powered tractor engine that Volvo used just didn't cut it! http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400648/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Tue, 26 Jan 2010 00:24 GMT Hi!%0D%0A%0D%0AWhere are you located? There's a young soldier at Ft Eustis (VA) trying to sell a LT1 engine (350 cu in) from a 93 'vette. I think he's asking 500, but I don't know anything about its condition. Just a thought . . . but might give you something else to think about (getting an engine from somebody else's project)%0D%0A%0D%0ABest,%0D%0A%0D%0ASteve A- http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1406724/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Wed, 24 Feb 2010 23:49 GMT Thanks TestPoint!%0D%0A%0D%0ALet's see...%0D%0A%0D%0AFrom what I am told it was a diesel so I believe it to have the radiator and rear end you mentioned. The current owner said that he never had any issues with overheating.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm not sure about the history of the Chevy 350. It could have been rebuilt prior to being put in...or not. To be on the safe side, I would probably have it completely refurbished anyway just to know and to have piece of mind. I guess my real question(s) about the truck engine vs. a High Output car version was just based on performance. If I am to rebuld the 350 truck engine that is currently in there, would it make more sense performance-wise and cost-wise to just plop in a different, higher compression engine or even a crate engine from JEGS or Summitt. I also know the local AdvanceAuto stores have replacement 350 blocks for pretty cheap as well...and you can get replacement, truck or high output versions. Ideally I'd like to have the 302 Ford in there instead. I had an 88 Mustang GT convertible a couple of years ago and loved it. Plus, like you said, it is a bit cheaper to do the Volvo with a Ford if you are starting from scratch. Since this one already has the Chevy, the tranny and the drive shaft in, I figured it would be easier to just rebuild or replace that.%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as interior and paint go, the paint is a bit faded, but still has decent shine. I could work on it over time. I'd like to paint it a flat or satin black or something bold like bright orange down the road at some point anyway. The good thing is, there is very minimal rust to take care of. The interior is tan cloth and in decent shape. %0D%0A%0D%0ABusget-wise, if I can get the car for $400, have the engine rebuilt and get it road-worthy for under $1500 I'd be in good shape. That plus the IPD springs, sway bars, and rims/tires should put me under $3K. The owner said other than an engine fix - he thinks it is a rod bearing - it only needs the speedo cable adapter and a radiator overflow tank. I can work on the paint luster/respray and update the interior as I go I think.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm not sure what the quality of the install is at this point. Maybe it makes sense to find a different car and do the Ford conversion for roughly the same price as fixing the Chevy? At least that way I'd have a Ford, it would be lighter. I'd just have to worry about getting the driveshaft refitted (not sure how hard/easy that is.%0D%0A%0D%0A- knotthead http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1406188/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 22:53 GMT You obviously have found JTR. They have a sister company, Stealth Conversions, that sells all the little pieces such as speedo cable connectors/converters.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe Volvo electrics are really simple. Everything can work. JTR recommends specific things like motor mounts that are GM parts counter items.%0D%0A%0D%0AA 1970's engine is surely going to need rebuilding. One alternative is to find a current V8 from a GM truck but that can get a little pricy. Another is a crate engine or a long block rebuild. %0D%0A%0D%0AI spent a year trying to find a way to buy the complete GM set up and never found a cost effective way compared to Ford. Lots of Explorers out there. I found a '00 Mountaineer 302 with AOD and everything that connected to the engine, including drive shaft, 11k miles for $2400. A complete equivalent GM setup V8 would have cost twice that.%0D%0A%0D%0AOne thing to consider is how well the original conversion was done. Was it a Diesel car? You need the Diesel radiator or one of the Corvette ones JTR recommends Need the vented brake rotors, the 3.32 rear end, the Diesel transmission mount. All those things ok?%0D%0A%0D%0AYou need to establish a realistic budget for what you want to do. What condition is the interior/paint? This kind of effort is all emotional so only you can decide %0D%0A%0D%0AI have the JTR books if you have any specific questions. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1406181/284_chevolvo_questions.html?rss=1 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 21:36 GMT Thanks for your response. The weather has been terrible for the past 6 weeks and I have not spent much time on this project.%0D%0A%0D%0AI have the early (pre'93) oil pan and pick up tube installed now, resolved the heater hose question and am ready for the motor mounts.%0D%0A%0D%0AThere is a lot of references to the Converse Engineering 'kit' but little info on what it contains. I would also like to understand the reluctance to share personal experience information on the conversion. I come from an on-line Jaguar restoration world and if you ask a question a dozen folks will line up to offer answers or at least suggestions. %0D%0A%0D%0AI have the JTR books which details all the issues on the SBC engine but there are a lot of little physical issues to resolve using the Ford 302. I also have the green books on the Volvo and the complete Ford manuals, all 8 inches of them. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe next is the exhaust system. I have a complete Explorer system, manifold to muffler and separate cut-off of the down sections.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe question of the day is: Should I remove the exhaust manifolds when locating the engine for motor mounts, assuming I will replace them with custom units or leave them on and adjust the mounts, best that I can, to accommodate them?%0D%0A%0D%0AI know I can noodle through this and intend to become a resource for others as I resolve all the little issues. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400683/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Tue, 26 Jan 2010 02:43 GMT Sorry, I meant to say you need clearance on the right hand side to clear the frame rail. Just for clarification, right side to me is looking towards the front of the car. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1401190/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Thu, 28 Jan 2010 13:48 GMT Spent several snowy days researching headers. The stock iron headers, especially on the right side just can't seem to compromise with the range of engine locations.%0D%0A%0D%0ASanderson seems to have the best dimensions displayed along with pictures. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/%0D%0A%0D%0AI would appreciate anyone comments on the use of their FF1 or FF3 headers. Because of the GP40P heads these two are the only ones in their inventory that will allow spark plug changes. They even volunteered to mix the two, L & R if that helps.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would also be appreciative of any other suggestions on other manufacturers. I find a number of new header for sale on eBay due to fitting problems. Don't want to join that club. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1404410/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 15:04 GMT Spent several snowy days researching headers. The stock iron headers, especially on the right side just can't seem to compromise with the range of engine locations.%0D%0A%0D%0ASanderson seems to have the best dimensions displayed along with pictures. http://www.sandersonheaders.com/%0D%0A%0D%0AI would appreciate anyone comments on the use of their FF1 or FF3 headers. Because of the GP40P heads these two are the only ones in their inventory that will allow spark plug changes. They even volunteered to mix the two, L & R if that helps.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would also be appreciative of any other suggestions on other manufacturers. I find a number of new header for sale on eBay due to fitting problems. Don't want to join that club. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1404409/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sat, 13 Feb 2010 14:58 GMT I would like to offer some details, info and observations from my experience with creating the "ultimate"Sleeper.With a great deal of expert effort from a Volvo friend who stuffed Vegas and Luv Trucks w/ V8's back in the 70's.We did 4 swaps into 740 series, both V6 & V8s( No Kits). The last one was a 302 into my '84 760 diesel body,.30 over cop motor,mild cam, pulling great between 1200-4500 RPM, perfect for really causing trouble in sleeperville!! OK, enuff fun,still got her, 50K later,solid and quick,22Mpg, if mildly driven in town, 29 on road, 3.73 rear and ford truck AOD. Now for the 142 Roller.............%0D%0A%0D%0A ENGINE SPACE (opening) is tight between those upper control arms- fairly close from rt to left. One thread mentioned a 122, and the measure is probably close on both models, but the Windsor should ease in ok,minus the fuelpump.This area is more like a hot-rod swap into a 50's Ford may be like.%0D%0Ayou may want to hammer the firewall where top of bellhousing hits-round off the rt.angle to slide motor back a little more-you'll see.%0D%0A%0D%0ABLOCK HUGGER Headers- will go a long way to resolve most of the exhaust clearance issues, which will be at rr of motor firewall.There are probably more choices now( mine was in 1996).huggers snug the oilpan-we did a little crossover and a 3"single exhaust.%0D%0A%0D%0ARACK AND PINION Steering--I have seen a 240 rack bolted to a 140 X-member. The tie-rods should even fit the 140 spindles and rack is adjustible. Find some 164 springs for the extra 100+ lbs.on the front end, an estimate.My motor had the Frt./RR Sump-OIL PAN: skinny in the middle-perfect! Some Ford pickup motors had a rr sump-would work.%0D%0A%0D%0AFAN-Clearance ETC. I did a Ford single serpentine, reverse rotation wtr/pmp, and that was short enuff to run a Flex-Fan w/ no clutch.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou folks are going to have a blast!!! I'm here in Sunny Florida where "Big Daddy" Don Garlits once said: " THERE AIN'T NO SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBIC INCHES".%0D%0A%0D%0AMy 2 cents worth, Kayo.%0D%0A%0D%0AAll rusting Majesticly: 62 544 --63 544--64 B210--'88 Bertone Runners: '81 Turbo'Coupe --'84 760-V --'71 GMC Suburban 3 door%0D%0ADrivers: '00 Jeep Cherokee LTD--'07 Tuscon Hyundai--gas pedal good!%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1401776/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Sun, 31 Jan 2010 04:17 GMT My son and I are starting to compile parts for a 142S Ford small block install. Originally intended to go hipo 289, as I have a couple on stands. But today one of our Jeep junkie buds (who does Ford into Willeys) kicked us down a 351W that we're going to mate with a C-4 with C-5 valve body, and stab em in there. We know going that route in that chassis, that the reticulated ball steering will have to be substituted with a rack and pinion unit (Mustang II or T-Bird), or swap out the entire front cross member. Being a current and past Tiger owner (3 since 1970), I've seen how the steering geometry problem has been approached and know that this area is where the most thought and possibly fabrication will occur. In the first proof of concept Alpine built by Ken Miles, he just left the Fairlane 260 and auto trans in front of steering, removed the engine driven fan and put electric fans in front of the radiator. Crude and out of balance, but it worked. We're looking to build a reliable sleeper vehicle that will run in the yellow arc all day. Not a drag racer, but capable of breathing fire when called on, and more importantly being able to stop quickly. We're shooting to use as much off the shelf/stock components as possible. What ever works for us, we'll pass on.%0D%0A P.S. We're in Northern California and the "CARS" & "PASS" programs have really screwed up most pre-80's source cars, in the junk yards in this part of the world, as the yards have made room for perfectly good cars that got turned in (and those had silica poured into their engines). http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398664/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Sat, 16 Jan 2010 08:26 GMT so i have been searching for the last week to no avail. i cant seem to find much info on a v8 into a 140. is there anyone on here that has done it? i have access to some ford mustang 5.0 v8 motors and im hoping someone on here has a build thread or info and such.%0D%0A%0D%0Athanks!!!! http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398150/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Thu, 14 Jan 2010 00:58 GMT From my own experience I would get rid of the cast iron headers and replace them with a set of tube headers designed as a direct replacement for the factory headers. This will allow you to bend the header over a few inches on the left side to clear the frame rail. Then it will be very easy to bend the stock pipes to mate up. You can even cut out a small wedge, bend the pipes and then mig up the cut. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400863/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Wed, 27 Jan 2010 02:14 GMT over on the 122 side, DYNAMOE has an ongoing thread on putting a 302 into a 122.%0D%0AIt's mostly a study in proper body work, But the motor fits. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400798/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:31 GMT oops! it's "Dinahmoe" http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400799/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Tue, 26 Jan 2010 20:34 GMT The oil pan you are looking for is a "Fox Chassis" oil pan. It will clear the cross member nicely. You will have to move the heater inlet/outlet on the driver's side of the firewall to the passenger side so the valve cover will not be interfering with it. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1390717/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sun, 6 Dec 2009 16:31 GMT Sold. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1400623/285_sale.html?rss=1 Mon, 25 Jan 2010 22:39 GMT See classifieds for details. 1984 265 w/ built 5.0, T5 and lots of goodies inside and out. Very rusty - ideal for someone who has a clean 200 sedan or wagon body and wants to create a V8 road warrior. Will part out if car doesn't sell.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.brickboard.com/CLASSADS/index.htm?id=14070 http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1393053/285_sale.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:16 GMT I fabricated my own motor mounts with the help of a &#128;&#156;metal&#128;&#157; guy who could bend inch steel somewhat in the shape of a &#128;&#156;Z&#128;&#157;. %0D%0A I used an 85 302 block, manifolds and oil pan.%0D%0A%0D%0ARunning the heater hose on the passenger inside is easier than it looks. Keep the hoses up close to the firewall and slide them over to the heater control valve. Use two, 90 degree 5/8 inch pre fabbed hoses to make the turn.%0D%0A%0D%0AI made dimensional drawings of the mounts which I could probably sell to you for a small fee, if I can find them.%0D%0AI don&#128;&#153;t think you&#128;&#153;ll find any pre made exhaust system that will fit. Once I had my engine and tranny and driveshaft in, I had a custom system made.%0D%0A%0D%0ATo see my finished product; http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2546253%0D%0A%0D%0ASend me your email if you have any questions we can do it that way.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1399732/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Thu, 21 Jan 2010 16:18 GMT Thanks for the info on the 'Fox Body' oil pan. Found one on eBay for $5. Then found that the oil pick up tube must be replaced. That is on order. The '93 and '00 pans are significantly different and obviously provide a much better match to the cross member/steering rack.%0D%0A%0D%0AI plan on rerouting the heater hoses behind/above the engine to the connections on the right rear of the engine. Saw one Ford conversion that rerouted inside but that seems more trouble than it is worth.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyone got any dimensions/design info on the motor mounts? It would appear that between the oil pan, the exhaust manifold and the steering wheel shaft there is not much options on design. There is probably only an inch or so of wiggle room. I understand the slight offset to the right.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe JTR manual says that on the SBC engine the left side manifold should be milled for clearance. Can I use the existing manifolds? I have both short cut-offs (18") of the original exhaust pipes and the entire exhaust system off another Mountaineer. Am I going to be able to use any of this or will I be paying a visit to the local exhaust shop? http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1397633/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Tue, 12 Jan 2010 16:12 GMT If you have access to or can fabricate yourself, modify the block side Ford mount to accept Chevy style mount on frame. That will rotate the attaching bolt geometry to something thats easier to access. Front to back rather than side to side. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398669/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:12 GMT The problem is that the upper control arms of the 140 suspension get in the way of the V-8, as does the steering box. The 240 was designed for the PRV V-6 engine, and has macpherson struts and rack and pinion, both of which give good clearance for the V type engine.%0D%0AI installed a 5.0 HO in a 1982 GLT and it was quite straightforward. The 140 won't be. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398509/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Fri, 15 Jan 2010 16:27 GMT I have been trying to do that for a '00 Ford 302 into a 240 without a lot of active interest from the forum members. I have received a replacement oil pan/pick up tube and am waiting on the garage to get above 40 to try fitting the engine again.%0D%0A%0D%0AThink I have the install about figured out on the 240 but don't know if I can help much on the 122 physical install. I am sure a lot of the same issues exist, ie, springs, brakes, drive shaft, radiator. Perhaps you could start by researching the much more common 240 swap for a list is issues to address. Be happy to help where I can. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1398450/v8_144s.html?rss=1 Fri, 15 Jan 2010 09:28 GMT Friends -%0D%0A%0D%0AMy car is now SOLD. It was a great car and a lot of fun but the new owner will give it the attention that it deserves so that helps with some of my post partem depression.%0D%0A%0D%0ABob http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1395077/1990_740_wagon_w_mustang_50_ho_v8_sale.html?rss=1 Sun, 27 Dec 2009 00:08 GMT Gang -%0D%0A%0D%0AHey, I know that Classifieds is the place for this but I've never figured out how to post pictures there so please accept my apologies if this is bad behavior.%0D%0A%0D%0AI need to sell my 1990 Volvo 740 Wagon with 5.0 Mustang V-8 and T-5 5-speed. It's a nice car and it's been very reliable for the 11+ years that I've owned it.%0D%0A%0D%0AHere is the craigslist link to it. %0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1482487600.html%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter around Dec 1 or 2 that ad will expire and I'll have to repost so the link will probably not work after that. But send me mail and I'll send you the details.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks.%0D%0A%0D%0ABob%0D%0ADover, MA%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1388908/1990_740_wagon_w_mustang_50_ho_v8_sale.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Nov 2009 00:20 GMT Here are my thoughts/questions on the conversion. The 'new' engine/transmission ('00 302 with 11k miles in warehouse storage since '00) is hanging in the engine bay at the moment. I am at the point of designing the motor mounts so all the other issues will have to wait until I get the engine/transmission located. Having to replace the oil pan for steering rack/cross member clearance. On order.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would welcome any and all input on previous experiences. Nothing appears to be difficult and the engine seems to fit fine but there are a large number of little issues to resolve. If I get it wrong I will just back up and do it again. I hope to be able to post my experiences so the next person will have it a little easier.%0D%0A%0D%0AI have links to other threads that I will post, maybe tonight.%0D%0A%0D%0AVolvo conversion questions%0D%0A%0D%0AInstallation of a Ford 302 V8 from a &#128;&#153;95 &#128;&#147; &#128;&#153;01 Explorer in a &#128;&#153;82 240 Diesel Wagon%0D%0A%0D%0AMotor mounts &#128;&#147; local metal fabricator, use Ford motor mounts. When I get them designed I will post dimensions. %0D%0A%0D%0ATransmission mounts &#128;&#147; Diesel mount usable, may require extension plate or shifting Volvo mount.%0D%0A%0D%0AOil Pan &#128;&#147; The oil pan on this model engine will not clear the steering rack and cross member. An &#128;&#153;85 &#128;&#147; &#128;&#153;93 Fox Body Mustang/Thunderbird oil pan is reported to work. I have one on order ($5 on eBay).%0D%0A%0D%0AHeater hoses will have to be moved/modified as they are too close to the rear of the engine. Still trying to decide how.%0D%0A%0D%0ADrive shaft connection &#128;&#147; Local drive shaft shop%0D%0A%0D%0ATransmission shift linkage - custom%0D%0A%0D%0ASpeedometer connection - ? &#128;&#153;92 digital dash? My &#128;&#153;00 auto transmission does not appear to have a cable connection to match the &#128;&#153;82 instrument cluster.%0D%0A%0D%0ARadiator position &#128;&#147; Use diesel radiator in place%0D%0A%0D%0AFan - electric or mechanical? JTR recommends Taurus electric fans, Converse GM single fan. Room for mechanical fan?%0D%0A%0D%0ARadiator connection - custom%0D%0A%0D%0AExhaust connection - Use Explorer O2S primary/secondary and CAT pipe from Ford, diesel exhaust system works.%0D%0A%0D%0AFuel connection &#128;&#147; Use gas Volvo primary/secondary pumps, diesel tank ok%0D%0A%0D%0AThrottle connection &#128;&#147; custom, need cable from donor car%0D%0A%0D%0AWiring harness &#128;&#147; need harness connector from donor car%0D%0A%0D%0ACruise Control &#128;&#147; need from donor car.%0D%0A%0D%0AA/C connection &#128;&#147; custom NAPA hose Volvo/Ford%0D%0A%0D%0APower steering connection &#128;&#147; NAPA hose Volvo/Ford %0D%0A%0D%0ADCM location &#128;&#147; Ford had the Drivetrain Control Module mounted in a slot through the firewall away from the engine compartment heat. Mounting the &#128;&#152;puter in the engine compartment may pose both heat and humidity issues. BIG connector to put through firewall.%0D%0A%0D%0ASensor inputs Volvo/Ford schematics - Have both, noodling connections.%0D%0A%0D%0ASprings &#128;&#147; Diesel springs adequate, Volvo V6 probably OK also.%0D%0A%0D%0ARear end &#128;&#147; Diesel rear end good match. Gas may be a little low ratio.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1392581/960_v8_swap_240_302_engine.html?rss=1 Mon, 14 Dec 2009 20:27 GMT I'm looking for the same thing (mine is a 240 wagon with a 5L Ford with the automatic transmission). There just doesn't appear to be a lot of detailed information on the forums. I have the JTR manuals on the GM swap but due to mileage, price and availability chose to go Ford. Chose not to buy the Converse kit. Converse Engineering will sell a kit with some parts and a manual for a lot of money. GOOGLE them to find out that much.%0D%0A%0D%0AThis is a true hobby car for me an am in no great hurry to drive to a finish line. I enjoy trying to resolve the issues as they come up.%0D%0A%0D%0AI am an active poster on a Jaguar maintenance forum and over there your forum friends line up to help. You would get a half dozen answers/opinions to a question in the first day.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've collected a number of contacts over the past few months along with my own list of things to deal with. Must go at the moment but will be back later today with further info. Would love to have a forum buddy to noodle out the answers with. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1392473/960_v8_swap_240_302_engine.html?rss=1 Mon, 14 Dec 2009 13:33 GMT Hello all! I am new to Volvos, but decided to jump in with both feet. I have my eyes on a decent 960 wagon and would love to do a 5.0/T56 swap on it, and have been doing google searches for an hour and am coming up short. I find a lot of dead links and pieces of threads from long dead forums. Can anyone point me in the right direction and is there a registry of people who have done the v8 volvo swaps? I'd love to find someone close by that has done one.%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0A%0D%0ATravis%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1392431/960_v8_swap.html?rss=1 Mon, 14 Dec 2009 04:47 GMT Have a complete exhaust for a converse 302 conversion, this was one of the first, and what we did was take a another stock driver side manifold and put on the passenger side, has O2 xensor and is one piece, goes into single pipe back to muffler. Had thought I was going to build another 302. but did a chevy instead, see classified\%0D%0A%0D%0ADon %0D%0AScituate MA http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1391704/converse_302_exhaust.html?rss=1 Thu, 10 Dec 2009 16:54 GMT I have a new link to my craigslist ad:%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1492901537.html%0D%0A%0D%0AIt'll be good until about December 9th. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1390063/new_ad_link_v8_volvo.html?rss=1 Thu, 3 Dec 2009 15:28 GMT The Mustang dual sump oil pan that ended around 93 or so should fit. It is usually called for when doing the Volvo engine swaps. I'm running one.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-123458/%0D%0A%0D%0AHow does that look compared to yours?%0D%0A%0D%0AGreg http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389325/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Mon, 30 Nov 2009 02:48 GMT Loved the car for 28 years since new.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe engine has slumps in front and a deeper one in rear. Oil Pump in in front with a pick-up tube to the rear.%0D%0A%0D%0AInstalled 8" hardware bolts to keep cross member sorta aligned as I dropped it. I will try again tomorrow but cannot see it all fitting. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389095/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Nov 2009 02:16 GMT If you still have the factory exh. manifolds attached, it prob. will not slide in. Dead center on the firewall, where it rolls under to tunnnel, you have to round off that corner w/ a 5# hammer for alignment of bellhousing.Motor can sit up close to firewall..I used a single serpentine belt setup.Mine was diesel also,heavier front springs, no in tank pump on those, easier. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389215/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Nov 2009 17:55 GMT My conversion is an old 760, but the 302 is out of an early Mustang and the oil pan is deep in the front and rear, skinny in the mid-section, fit perfectly in the 700. I was told then that the ford pickups w/ 302s had a rear sump: just change the pickup tube and strainer. "Hugger" Headers is the other answer, plus a whack or three on the firewall above the bellhousing, you'll love the swede after it's done!!! http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389092/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Nov 2009 01:56 GMT I'm reading over my post and to clarify:"Early Mustang" refers to a 1979,not older. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1389122/240_302_ford_engine_swap_oil_pan_clearance.html?rss=1 Sun, 29 Nov 2009 04:13 GMT I built an 82 GLT with the 5.0 and five speed some years ago.%0D%0AThat's a very nice conversion you have there, and if I was on the east coast, I'd buy it!%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1388956/1990_740_wagon_w_mustang_50_ho_v8_sale.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Nov 2009 05:57 GMT I think that the Brickboard email system may have some problems. I tried clicking on the "envelope" to send a test email via my own ad and it came back. Same thing when I tried to contact someone else. Hopefully this problem will be resolved quickly. Gee, I also hope it's not just a problem at my end. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1388954/1990_740_wagon_w_mustang_50_ho_v8_sale.html?rss=1 Sat, 28 Nov 2009 05:11 GMT I have an '88 Bert in Tampa Florida(Central,West Coast)w/dead V6, Dark Blue,tan interior,complete,$600 Firm http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1386508/780_bertone_2dr_rustfree_body_sale.html?rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:57 GMT Perfect for your V8 project!%0D%0A%0D%0A1989 780 Bertone Coupe. No engine or transmission. Rust free body. Glass and lights all unbroken. %0D%0A%0D%0APrevious owner overheated engine (was 4-cyl turbo, not V-6). Her husband pulled the engine and tranny, stripped it for rebuild and put everything in the basement. A leaking water heater turned the drivetrain into 500 Lb of scrap. I bought the car last year because I had a good 760 turbo driveline for it. Situation changed and I have to sell off all my stuff. %0D%0A%0D%0ABlack exterior, rare two tone (beige with black accent) interior. Interior needs work. PO started to recover some panels in black and seats have wear, but all the parts seem to be present. 130,500 on odometer.%0D%0A%0D%0APO had put 4 new Bridgestone Turanzas on the car just before it overheated. Car also had struts, Nivomats, brakes, and a few other things replaced. Clean NY title.%0D%0A%0D%0A750 or best reasonable offer. Email me for questions or pictures%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1377178/780_bertone_2dr_rustfree_body_sale.html?rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 19:00 GMT 544...%0D%0A%0D%0Aposting your car for sale to a direct response on my ad for the same car was really a less-than-upstanding (read: "low") thing to do. Shame on you. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1388815/780_bertone_2dr_rustfree_body_sale.html?rss=1 Fri, 27 Nov 2009 16:18 GMT is this car still available if so could u please send me pics. also were is the car located thanks for your time %0D%0A frank bub539@aol.com http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1386166/780_bertone_2dr_rustfree_body_sale.html?rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 03:51 GMT I am looking for a fuel injection schematic or good photos of how and where all the hoses and lines hookup.%0D%0A%0D%0AA mechanic/friend of mine was repairing some starter wires and hurt his back in the middle of putting it back together. <crying>%0D%0A%0D%0AI am aware there are many changes each year, but I cannot find one for my particular year... 1982.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would so appreciate if someone could point me to, or forward me information concerning this.%0D%0A%0D%0A<love my VO>%0D%0A%0D%0ADavid http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1385220/242_fuel_injection_b21f_schematic_photos_240.html?rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 23:35 GMT I don't have the expertise to offer much more, but i would think that 7 of 8 good cylinders might keep the starting and idling close to normal.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would take it to the local Mustang 5.0 expert. http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1384623/sell_restore_testing_waters.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:33 GMT Yeah, I've been wondering about something like that, but I'm not sure how to figure that out. And the engine starts and idles normally, you don't think a bad lifter would cause a change there?%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1384616/sell_restore_testing_waters.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:36 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/