http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=9726 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:54 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:54 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. My B18 has healthy compression figures but is venting substantial amounts of exhaust gasses to atmosphere from the block breather (standard Swedish model '67 setup) to the extent that the car is getting to be undriveable as the cabin lacks fresh air. In my case, I reckon that the problem is tired rings caused by a higher compression head upgrade a couple of years back. You really need a leak down test to show 'sustained' compression rather than peak compression - otherwise, you'll end up with my figures and no real answers. Others here will no doubt offer more expert advise but I reckon that if wet and dry standard compression tests return good figures but a leak down test returns lower figures then your engine may well be fine with a hone and new rings, provided that oil pressure is good. Its a great opportunity to replace gaskets and seals, especially crankshaft etc. -- 1967 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382098&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 21:08 GMT Hi, I don't want to sound negative but I've been disappointed with the quality of recent purchases from Scandcar. For instance, they used to supply Bosch ignition components but now supply Italian alternatives which would be cheaper to source but this saving is not passed on. I'd suggest that you check out two alternatives: CVI: http://www.cvi-automotive.se/webshop/ and VP Autoparts; http://www.vp-autoparts.com/ VP Autoparts have a base in the US and pride themselves on the quality of their product: quote: Interiors - Our interiors have quickly become one of our most popular product lines. All materials such as the vinyls, textiles and the processes are developed to exactly reproduce the interiors for most of the models 1947-73 (now also some parts for 140/164). We test all interior applications either in a car, on a door, or on a seat to make sure that they have a perfect fit before any product is released. We make all the interior parts at our facilities at Fristad (except dash tops) so we can offer the highest quality and short lead times to produce interior parts. We try to stock all of the most popular interiors for PV/Duett, Amazon and 1800/ES. end quote... Any interior trim that I've bought from VP Autoparts has exceeded my expectations. Of course, currency exchange rates will dictate value but I'd consider the alternatives to Scandcar. -- 1967 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1338353&rss=1 Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:49 GMT I'd be interested in one as well, assuming that the cost of manufacture and postage to Ireland isn't prohibitive (I'm a cheapskate too!) -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1314215&rss=1 Sat, 15 Nov 2008 12:27 GMT Model: 121 vehicle: 130 year: 1967 country of delivery: Sweden LHR/RHD: LHD Motor manufacturer: Electrolux Mechanism type: Gearbox Washer type*: Electric (turn the knob type - third position on wiper knob) -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1314213&rss=1 Sat, 15 Nov 2008 12:19 GMT This guy? http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/tread/1046/id23.htm -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269652&rss=1 Sat, 5 Apr 2008 16:59 GMT Hi, I got them from CVI Automotive - they sell a kit for 870 Swedish Kroner. They also sell rebuilt calipers but they'd be costly in terms of shipping (especially as you have to send back the originals). As you're based in the US I'd imagine that it'd be cheaper for you to source them from a Volvo specialist there - the stainless steel ones from John Farrel in NY that Rhys mentioned seem like a better long term solution. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269602&rss=1 Sat, 5 Apr 2008 11:10 GMT One oil company in Ireland that supplies a 5% ethanol blend (E5) quotes a higher octane rating than standard petrol - some people who have imported Japanese Domestic Market cars say that they can avoid an ECU remap by using E5 instead of the standard dishwater that passes for fuel here. I've read studies that claim that the ethanol will damage brass components in carbs etc over time -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269563&rss=1 Sat, 5 Apr 2008 00:57 GMT I've managed to find new pistons so I'll put them in along with new seals - they're not SS but they'll keep me going for the next few years at least. I've cleaned up the cylinders with wet and dry sandpaper - just a bit of surface rust - nothing too major. Have to replace the pads too as the overheating caused them to break up - the disk/rotor seems to be ok - I've put a dial guage on it and it seems to be straight enough. Thanks for the responses and thanks to Ron for the suggestion on his Swem site about using hydraulic pressure to push the pistons out - it made life a lot easier. -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1977 Volvo 245 DL http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269560&rss=1 Sat, 5 Apr 2008 00:49 GMT Hi, Just a quick question - following an incident with a smoking caliper I decided that a rebuild was on the cards. I've stripped the first caliper and found pitted pistons, a little gunge and some rust on the lip between the o ring seal and the lip of the cylinder. Is it ok to clean this up with something like 1200 grade wet and dry sandpaper (with a thorough clean afterwards) or is there a better way of going about this? Its a single circuit system so I'd like to get it right first time. I haven't split the caliper - just removed the seals and pistons. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and comments, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269352&rss=1 Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:31 GMT The CVI site says that they'll be re-opening in June 2007 so there's still hope. I've used VP Autoparts during previous CVI closures/wholesale only times, and found them to be reasonably priced with good service. They have a branch in South Carolina for the North American market. (http://www.vp-autoparts.com/) Hope this helps, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1193692&rss=1 Sun, 24 Jun 2007 21:11 GMT Hi, Spax have a mixed reputation in the Triumph world (where parts get replaced a lot more often...). The Triumph ones have a built in adjuster (a small screw in the body of the shock) that invariably seizes and then shears after a few months of exposure to the elements. Build quality appears to have been variable over the last few years - some people like them and some people swear that they'll never touch them again. Koni have a much better reputation - the only disadvantage is that they are only adjustable off the car - the Spitfire/GT6 has a coil over damper arrangement that makes this a real hassle. It shouldn't be a big problem with the Volvo though. I've never read any criticism of Koni shocks on any Triumph forum, apart from the price. Hope this helps, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1154170&rss=1 Sat, 27 Jan 2007 20:39 GMT I had a '69 UK spec 121 with dual circuit brakes & servo and cable clutch. I thought that the dual circuit brakes were far superior to my '67 but then I suspect that my calipers could do with a bit of work. The '69 would pitch forward on heavy braking whereas my '67 just slows to a stop. I didn't notice much difference in the clutch although I think that the cable one was slightly heavier. See if you can get a drive in the car and make your own comparison. If you're thinking of adding the newer car to your collection then that's fine but given the age that the cars are now I wouldn't rush into changing a car that I knew well for another unless I was certain that it was superior on every count -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152540&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jan 2007 10:02 GMT Thanks Pete - removal of the shaft with the drum went exactly as you described. The bearing looks good so it'll stay put and I'll clean it up. Its getting late here so I'll get the oil seal housing out tomorrow and put it all back together again with the new parts. Thanks again for the help, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1097970&rss=1 Sat, 22 Jul 2006 22:00 GMT Hi, I've got a '67 131. I noticed recently that one of the rear brake backplates was wet. When I had a closer look, I found that it was gear oil. I removed the back plate and found that the bearing is soaked in gear oil - I'm guessing that the oil seal behind the bearing has failed. I've got a new bearing kit with the seals, gaskets etc and I'm ready to start work. The Haynes manual that I have is a little light on detail about all this but I gather that I should use an impact puller to remove the driveshaft to gain access to the bearing and seal. So, before I do any damage, is it safe to use a 5" three legged puller to remove the driveshaft now that the backplate is off? The shaft seems very firmly fixed in place and I don't want to apply too much force until I'm sure.... If anyone knows of an easier way to go about this then I'd appreciate any tips that you may have. The practice will be useful as I've just noticed that the other backplate is darkening in the same area..... Thanks as usual for any advice, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1097938&rss=1 Sat, 22 Jul 2006 19:17 GMT Thanks - there are some great ideas there - I'll have a go at them when I've sorted out this propshaft. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074754&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 16:55 GMT Thanks - I hadn't realised that the output flanges are different between the two gearbox types but it makes sense seeing as the output shafts are different I think that I'll contact the guy who sold me the M41 and see if he has a suitable propshaft section and smaller flanges. I'd rather not take out the M41 anytime soon and I'm not sure that the disc behind the support bearing will fit through the tunnel when being put in backwards either. In the meantime I've got lots to think about in terms of wiring the whole thing up - thanks for the link. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074745&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 16:26 GMT Hi, I've finally got around to fitting an M41 to my Amazon to replace the original M40. I got an M41 and front propshaft section from a 1971 P1800ES and have fitted the gearbox. When I went to fit the (replacement) front propshaft section, I found that the flange was too big to go through the closed off section of propshaft tunnel in front of the support bearing area. The area around the universal joint seems to be larger on the new propshaft section as well so I don't think that I can simply swap the flanges between the shafts. So.... the best option appears to me to replace the flange on the overdrive unit with the smaller M40 flange and then to cut the original front propshaft section to the correct length. That way I'd have a smaller flange to pass through the tunnel and a matching flange on the overdrive unit. Does that seem to be the best solution or is there an easier way of approaching this? Secondly, as regards wiring - do I need to use a relay when passing current to the solonoid and if so what kind/specification of relay is used? There are two terminals on the solonoid and a disconnected wire from the unit itself. Does it matter which terminal this wire is connected to - can the live feed go to either terminal? Thanks for any help or suggestions, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074650&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 11:08 GMT Hi Joaquin, The only information that I can find is on the GCP website. http://www.gcp.se/asp/frmCatalogDisplay.asp?CurrentSection=Section_02a_page_006 This lists three head gaskets for the B18: 418990-8 0.8 (for ROT >=100 (RON?)) 419688-7 1.6 (for ROT 95 - 100) 418867-8 2.4 (for ROT >95) While it categorises them by octane rating rather than by compression ratio its reasonable to assume that the thinner gasket relates to the later engine as fuel octane ratings rose before falling again in recent years. 418990 seems to be the only one thats widely available these days. Not the exact answer you're looking for but hopefully of some help.... Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1074641&rss=1 Sat, 6 May 2006 08:46 GMT Hi Jim, You can mail him by clicking on the email link in this page: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/user_data.htm?uid=315 Hope this helps, Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1073820&rss=1 Wed, 3 May 2006 20:21 GMT Hi Steve, If you do decide to fit electric cooling fans, you might need to have a think about their positioning. I've spoken to people who fitted them to Triumph GT6 cars (the GT6 can overheat easily in hot conditions). The consensus was that a better result was gained by positioning the fan behind the radiator so that it drew in air rather than blew air through from the front. It was thought that this maximised the frontal area of the radiator rather than blocking it with fan motors etc. I know that most modern cars have the fan fitted in front of the radiator but the cooling requirements of modern cars seem to be quite different to the older cast iron blocks. Mind you, the cooling requirements of older Triumphs may be different as well! Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1067548&rss=1 Wed, 12 Apr 2006 16:48 GMT Hi, Is it possible to get a Vernier pulley for the B18/B20 cam? This might be a simpler and more accurate solution for setting the timing as it'll give you adjustability to 1/10 of a degree (depending on the design). I'm a bit concerned now.... When I installed my D cam I just aligned everything visually (the Haynes approach) and left it at that. I've never really been able to shake the feeling that the timing isn't quite right as the car runs slightly hotter now no matter what I do. On the Triumph engine that I recently rebuilt (chain drive), I used a dial guage to get TDC on piston #1 and then used a timing wheel to find 105 degrees ATDC and then fitted the timing chain (it's an aftermarket performance cam). Should a similar approach be used on the Volvo B18/B20 engine and if so where can I find the data for the cam settings? Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6, 1972 Triumph Spitfire 2.5 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1066391&rss=1 Sat, 8 Apr 2006 09:55 GMT Hi, I'm not clear from your other post on vacuum retard if you're running a non-standard distributor on your engine. If you are then you should have a look at the timing throughout the rev range as the advance curve may not be correct for your engine. BTW is anyone else having problems using Firefox and the new ads? I can't read posts properly because the ads are displayed over the text... Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1062699&rss=1 Tue, 28 Mar 2006 08:25 GMT Hi, I'm not sure if these will help but it might be worth dropping them a mail. This place lists a Waso code of X17 for a Volvo gas cap (it might not be for the older Volvo...) http://www.lockcodes.com/names.htm#W This guy is based in the US and stocks Waso blanks - he might well be able to help. http://britishcarkeys.com/ This place stocks (non Waso) blanks for Waso petrol caps - might also be worth a look if more local options fail. http://www.keyosk.co.uk/pr_key-blanks-key-blank-comparison-table-car-key-blanks.shtml VP Autoparts might be able to advise also. Hope one of the above helps.. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1056726&rss=1 Wed, 8 Mar 2006 09:42 GMT Hi Tom, Its easier to diagnose if you can have someone watch the steering from the engine bay as you recreate the noise. It could be low steering box oil, it could be a ball joint. A leaky steering box shouldn't be ignored - on my car the leaking oil led to accelerated wear in the track rod joint immediatly below, causing some interesting steering effects. Whatever it is, you should investigate soon. I was able to get away with replacing the seals in my steering box - its not that difficult a job once you get the box away from the arm. Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1056246&rss=1 Mon, 6 Mar 2006 21:47 GMT Hi Sean, It might be worth checking the orientation of the distributor gear drive (see http://www.intelab.com/swem/Volvo%20Ignition%20from%20Scratch.htm). However, if that was significantly out them I doubt if you'd be able to start the car at all. You can advance the timing until the engine pings under load - assuming that you get a chance to test this before overheating. Adjusting the timing in either direction will give you a rough idle after a certain point as the engine starts to misfire. If you can advance it significantly without this happening then the timing might well be way out. When you start the engine from cold, the temp needle should gradually rise past the mid point to about the 3/4 point and then drop back to normal or slightly below as the thermostat opens. If it doesn't do that then think more about the thermostat(s)/water pump/radiator. Its worth checking the water pump pulley for play and untoward noises. The fuel mixture can be judged by the colour of the plug ends - you probably need new plugs to check this properly at this stage if the present ones are fouled. If they're fouled with oil and your PCV pipes are clear then its not looking good and may well be worn bores. You could try compression testing the engine to give you a rough idea of the state of the bores/valves. Its easy to forget to set the heater to 'hot' before filling the cooling system. An airlock there will cause rapid overheating. How's the oil pressure? Does the oil pressure light come on at idle? Aidan -- 1967 131, 1969 131, 1973 Triumph GT6 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1023479&rss=1 Sat, 19 Nov 2005 11:06 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/