http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=9360 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:39 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 02:39 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Find a better alignment shop. The lower ball joint plate can be shifted on the end of the arm to gain a half degree at least. Some caster adjustment can also be found that way - most shops look at 240 and claim "there ain't no caster adjustment". They don't know where to look is all. If they claim springs will help, push down on the rear bumper on each side in turn, and see if the readout numbers change much. That's what springs will do. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387655&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:10 GMT Short of boring the block to accept new pistons there is nothing to be done. They are fitted to extremely close tolerances, less than .001 inch. Drive it as it is, because in all likelyhood it's mostly a benign thing. If it doesn't burn oil, or blow the head gasket in the next little while, you'll have the "accepted" piston slap many of these engines have. Me - I'm too proud to drive an engine that is noisy - that's just me of course. The reality is the damage is done, and if the engine runs acceptably, then drive it. Gently. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387418&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:41 GMT He drove the car for several years -I never did take it apart. However the B230's essentially have NO skirts, compared to older style Volvo engines. On an overheat the pistons heat up first, and the sides begin to move inwards as the metal softens slightly. Any more softening and the center of the head blows through. Scuffing of the skirts, and collapsing, has been around as long as aluminum pistons when an overheat occurs. In the old days though the piston didn't make noise even though it may have been damaged. The cylinders are iron actually, and some were made with an alloy that wore badly under the influence of the piston ring material. Both the ring and the bore have to be chosen to work with one another, and if they are, wear is minimal. Dismantle a Honda to see what can be achieved when things are done correctly. I've seen worn bores in 85-90 B230 engines that I rebuilt. Terrible. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387303&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:13 GMT As I've mentioned before my dislike of the B230's, I won't belabour that point again. However the brief overheat has no doubt collapsed a piston, and what you are hearing is piston slap. I had a customer whose engine popped a block heater in the rear frost plug hole, and that dumped the coolant in seconds. He drove it for less than 1/4 mile after that. Number four piston collapsed, and caused noise mostly under load accelerating at about 2-3k rpm. That's all it took. Sounds like your symptoms are the same, although it may be more than one piston. You'll not be able find or use oil thick enough to prevent the noise. Just drive it gently and hope for further life out of it. It may nonetheless blow the head gasket in the future, but it sounds like it's fine right now. Loss of coolant, overpressure in the coolant, or contaminated oil are the symptoms of that. If that happens buy a used engine. Don't rebuild the one you have. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387262&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:00 GMT Copper is the product designed for high temp use. I've built headers in the past and installed them without gaskets, just a thing smear of copper RTV. Works well. I use black in other situations, rarely, and never use blue because I don't want to look at it. Usually blue indicates someone unskilled.....as the stuff is used far too frequently. But for the exhaust, copper is the best bet. Remember though that the only solvent for silicone is gasoline. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387129&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:42 GMT If the trans uses the long shift lever ( early 140) then it will be the slot on the top of the trans cover where the cap threads on. Side thrust on the lever torques the slot out wider, leading to the sloppy feel. I have a nearly perfect top cover that will be going on Ebay soon, but you can email from www.sucarburetors.com if you like to swing a deal on it now. Rhys http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384604&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:53 GMT Automatic transmission oils are formulated for transmissions which are hydraulic in nature, and ATF is a hydraulic fluid. A poor idea. Change the oil frequently with a good grade of engine oil, and the results will be dramatic, AND safe for the engine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384603&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:50 GMT Surface cracks are relatively normal, although they do indicate some heating of the flywheel. Have the flywheel ground at an automotive machine shop. Carefully ask them to ensure that the pressure plate mounting surface is also ground the same amount to maintain the depth of the depressed center. I doubt very much that replacement will be needed. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383795&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 06:44 GMT It looks good as it is. Don't "machine" it with any power tool. Use permatex non-hardening pliable sealer in a tube, and coat the gasket with that both sides. I don't like RTV - most people who use it don't understand it. Silicone grease on the upper seal and the tube seal. It's only got to hold about 11 psi, or 22 if you haven't swapped your high pressure B230 cap for the lower pressure B21-23 cap which is preferable. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383509&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 00:29 GMT The B20 powered 240 is one of the original hybrids, and worth staying away from. You can get a more modern 240 ( relatively speaking) for the same money. Pass on it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383373&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 05:55 GMT I LIKE IT! WELL DONE!!! Very good looking installation. I'm sure it will pull like Demonic-tronic. Maybe better! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383372&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 05:53 GMT Hi Ryan; One of the problems, as you say, is identifying the type of Phillips, but also there are similar designs, like Posidrive and Reed & Prince, that look the same but have variations in angles. Stromberg carbs use Reed and Prince chamber screws, and I replace them every time because they are always messed up with Phillips drivers. Rhys http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383246&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 19:34 GMT I've been using them all my life - I'm Canadian - and they don't strip. Drywall screws, carpentry screws, in the most powerful screw guns you can find - they don't strip. The ones you are talking of may be softer alloy, but here in Canuck land they're used for everything. Even the fasteners on my boat, in stainless steel, are Robertson, and all slots and phillips are ignominiously pitched overboard when removed to be replaced with Robertson. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383165&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 05:35 GMT Because the USA manufacturers were unwilling to pay patent rights to the Robertson square drive system, developed in Canada by Peter Robertson in the early 20th century, long before Mr. Phillips came up with his lousy (but good looking) design. About 3 Robertson sizes cover 10 Torx sizes. Your sockets and ratchets use square drive, so why not the fasteners themselves? Money. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383140&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 02:03 GMT I always serviced customer cars with Esso XD-3 diesel oil, which is the Canadian version of Exxon's oil by the same name. Very high quality conventional oil. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382290&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:12 GMT I've said it before and I'll say it again - Volvo should have been ashamed of themselves for building the early and middle B230's. That said, I made a lot of money rebuilding the damn things for customers. To fix the slap, new pistons are needed. They are fitted to a clearance of .0007 inch because they have no skirts. Stupid. And don't even get close to overheating the engine, even once, because if you do, the pistons will slap and continue to do so, the very same day. I never, ever, had to put pistons in the B21 or B23 engines - re-ring and away we go. No slap. Use 15W-40 oil. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382239&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 06:24 GMT I've owned at least four sets of Virgos, and traded more. They bend far too easily - and appear to be made of tempered cheese..... Never again. I love their looks, but they don't act as wheels. They act as eccentrics best used to level fresh concrete. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382237&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 06:18 GMT If it is an early distributor with the vacuum advance unit, it is likely that the breaker plate has excessive play on the stationary plate beneath it ( the two parts that allow the vacuum unit to rotate the points in relation to the shaft) As also mentioned, the shaft bushings may be worn out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381925&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 02:40 GMT The tenth digit of the VIN is the identifier for the model year. M is 1991, N is 1992. That's what determines the year of the vehicle, not the actual production date. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381267&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 16:53 GMT Hi Gary; What that link shows is what I'd call "trick"! Very impressive. Rhys http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380664&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 01:59 GMT The turbo oil cooler adapter will hit the header pipe - on the turbo cars it's in a far different location. You can use a Transdapt oil filter relocation kit for Ford small block, and then plumb a cooler into the lines, either the Volvo one or one from Earl's or equivalent. The Ford filter base is the same as Volvo of course. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379959&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 21:37 GMT I set the level at 3/16 - and I do hundreds of them.... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379485&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:07 GMT On those trans the diaphragm spring on the forward clutch apply piston (one at the front anyways) fails and the piston gets damaged. At least that's what happened to the few I have rebuilt. Common failure. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377426&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 23:52 GMT Hi Barry; The method I have used for years is to dismantle my feeler gauge set and insert a 5, 6 and 7 thousands strip. Normally I put the thick one at the top, and the thinner ones at 4 and 8 o'clock. Don't use sealer on the timing cover gasket as it makes it slippery. Then tighten down. Be carefull tightening the pan bolts that go into the cover bottom edge - just enough is all. This has worked well for years, and keeps the felt seal well centered so it works for years as well. Rhys http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377204&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 23:13 GMT Life is a series of priorities, and you've sequenced them as you need to, and that's good. We'll all be here when you return. Until then, write me from the website if you have any questions on the vintage car stuff. Rhys http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376399&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 05:41 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/