http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=9193 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:18 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm#940InstrumentClusterRemoval That link will take you to where the cluster removal is discussed in the FAQ's. The photo shows the angle of attack to push the spring clip back to release the bezel on that side. It is the same attachment on the other side but only one needs to be released. There is a small slot on each side of the bezel that you can insert your long thin screwdriver into to press on the spring. It takes more pressure than you might think and then the screwdriver seems to be in the way and holding it in- a little determination on your part will cause the bezel to be released. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386086&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 20:00 GMT Evidently this was not an eBay purchase? He has 100% positive feedback there with 644 transactions http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386037&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:30 GMT I have always wondered about the details in doing that- NA engine and bolting on the turbo and associated plumbing. I find it interesting that the guys over at turbobricks have been modifying the blocks to accept squirters. How much boost are you running? How much modification on the electrical side was necessary? Running premium I presume? Just a matter of drilling the block to accept the oil return line? Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385878&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 22:29 GMT The last several exhaust systems I have been working on seem to rust/break at the joints rather than having the muffler rust out. I am at a loss as to explain why the joints seems so suseptible to rust and corrosion. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385807&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:08 GMT 1988 244 Automatic 125K While driving tonight the car suddenly would not drop below about 1500 rpm at what was supposed to be idle. A couple of times it dropped down but then would pick up again. When I pulled it into the garage and turned it off and then restarted it seemed to idle fine. I am too tired to chase it tonight. Other than checking the throttle position switch, and perhaps cleaning the idle control motor what should I be looking at? Thanks, Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385451&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:19 GMT Yes, that would be the tool he used. I was under the assumption that it was just a regular recipricating saw with a special attachment, but it would appear to be a complete package. A very efficient tool. randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385448&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:14 GMT It was an original set in butyl. I asked him if the urethane was more difficult and he replied that they did take more time. He verified that it was illegal to set a windshield in butyl- I think he said it became so in 1992. I told him I thought it was still available and he thought so as well, but it is illegal to use it in windshield applications. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385407&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 19:43 GMT I sold a windshield out of one of my 740 parts cars to a friend of mine. He has a friend who works for one of the nationwide windshield replacement services who stopped by to remove the windshield. He used a reciprocating saw that was equipped with miniature beaver tail like device. It was made out of thin, flexible metal, perhaps stainless. He sat down in the passenger's seat and worked the inside edge all the way around. The cutting process took less than five minutes. We lifted it out and put it on his stand and then he spent another three or four minutes using a single edge razor blade and window cleaner on it before he placed it on the rack in the van and he thanked me and left. The entire process took less than twenty minutes much of which was spent answering my questions concerning his work. I have removed several windshields using the thin wire between two screwdrivers acting as handles method. It was nice to have a ringside seat and watch a pro work. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385396&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:46 GMT If this car was equipped with a low coolant sensor circuit you wouldn't have to worry about the coolant level getting low and the car overheating. There is information in the FAQ's about installing one. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385033&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:30 GMT Perhaps the one I have has a bad seal. When I disconnected the cable I had some ATF that ran out. I might take the end of the cable and make up a cap out of that. Thanks. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384871&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 11:13 GMT I am in the process of trying to install the new transmission and am having some trouble getting things to mesh so I thought I would take a break. Ran into crumbling insulation on the 4 pin connector coming out of the transmission tunnel so I had to replace all of that. The transmission I am using from the 244 had a mechanical speedometer and I am wondering the most effective means to seal up the output on the transmission. Have you had to deal with that? Thanks for any input. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384803&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 00:33 GMT I got it out and on the floor last night. I am glad you provided the shifter information as it eliminated the guess work. It was a challenge for sure. Not much room to work and the back of the transmission did not want to drop down. I guess the motor mounts were in too good of shape. I should have loosened those to see if it would allow more tilt. The top bolt on the bellhousing was more difficult than any AW71 I ever had to access. I think the 740 that the transmission is going into will have a little more room. At this point I am assuming that the shifter on the 744 while different will have a similiar setup. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384688&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 15:34 GMT Thanks, I appreciate it. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384559&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:55 GMT I going to do an M46 swap from a 1982 244 to a 1988 744Ti with the M46. I have never pulled a manual transmission on a Volvo. What is the best way to deal with the shift lever and linkage on the 244? Do I remove it as a unit or can I pull the pin on the stick and get enough room to remove the transmission. It looks like if I pull the pin and leave just a "stub" of the shifter that it still will interfere with moving the transmission back far enough to get it to drop down. I guess I have the same question about the 744 if someone has that information at this time. Thanks, Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384522&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:15 GMT Art, I believe that once someone responds to a post it can no longer be editted. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384379&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 01:02 GMT I guess that is where I am coming from. I do them every 20,000 miles and feel two gallons is good enough based on color. But then again at 20,000 miles the color is not bad to begin with. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383917&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:32 GMT This may have been my problem but found that it grounds through the harness- it does not have to be attached to the inner fender to function although it probably helps dissipate heat. Possible resolution posted here: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1383911&nr_no=1 Thanks for your response. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383912&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:25 GMT Bruce, Problem still persisted after addressing the grounds at the rail and at the front corners of the engine compartment. Reference: Pumps not cycling when turning on the key. This was my fault. I was not aware that the pumps would not recycle until the key had been off for about 5 seconds. The fuel injection relay doesn’t “release” for about 5 seconds after the car is shut down. I believe this is true if the car has been running or if an attempt to start it has been made. If you get into the car and turn the key on it will cycle. If you then turn it off and back on it will cycle again. But if you try to start it and then turn the key back to “off” the pumps will not cycle again until 5 seconds have passed. So what I saw as a problem was normal operation. I started my search with cleaning fuses 1 and 11 and giving them a skim of dielectric. I cleaned the connections at the coil. Even though I had tried two different fuel injection relays I soldered another one and installed it. I did not pull the relay tray- there is so little room to work. A bright light and a mirror did not reveal any of the connectors in the socket showing any damage or signs of heat. I still had no helper today but managed to figure out that there probably was no spark. When it would stall and not start adding starting fluid did not provide a momentary period of starting and running. I decided to go for a ride and see if it would repeat its stalling/no start behavior. I took a spare ignition module and resistor pack. I did not get ¼ miles from the house and it died. I jumped out and swapped the resistor pack. It would not start. I swapped in the ignition module and it started right up. I continued on and drove about 10-15 miles with no further trouble. Of course intermittent is an ugly thing and I sure can’t declare it sorted out at this point. If I find the time before dark I may swap the suspected bad module back in and see if I can get it to fail again and remedy the resulting no start with swapping back to the other module. Do you know if a failed module would result in the tach dropping to zero when it ceased to function? Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383911&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:20 GMT Gas gauge is a rather common problem due to cluster connections I believe. Sometimes slapping the dash brings it around. I would be surprised if these come and go as a group. I would address the brake lights first. Are all of the brake lights out (all three?). If so I would suspect the bulb out sensor. They sometimes can be resoldered to restore their function. New I think they list for over $100. Pick and Pull would be a good source. If he has cruise control and it is not working along with all three brake lights out I can almost guarantee it the sensor. It is the large, bright red circular unit plugged into the relay tray. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383904&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 18:50 GMT You need the red pipe to have a heater circuit. Once you have the end of the pipe clean the round square shoulder seal in installed on the pipe first. A little RTV not only insures a good seal but also acts as a lubricant to allow the seal to be pushed into the correct positon in the pump. I put a little on the pipe and slide the seal into place and then a little more around the outside of the seal before carefully pushing it into the back of the waterpump and installing the nut and the bolt. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383902&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 18:45 GMT Barry, Maybe I am misreading your post, but I think you mean either buy the new regulator assembly or a set of brushes to solder into his old regulator. Any new regulator I have seen comes with new brushes already installed. I would vote for the new brushes if he has soldering skills. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383900&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 18:41 GMT I don't follow Bentley on the flush procedure. I flush when hot right off of the highway. Disconnect upper metal line. Attach hose to radiator fitting. Start car and start adding clean fluid in a funnel of the correct end diameter in the dipstick tube. At idle it is easy to keep up with the flow out of the hose. Jump in the car and put the selector in reverse and then to drive. Continue until you have pumped out and added the two gallons. Shut off the car, replace metal line, make a note to do it again in 20,000 miles. Go do something else you are done. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383745&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 02:26 GMT Two gallons of Castrol Dexron will run you about $30.00 (AutoZone) The oil and filter will run between $15 and $20. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383741&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 02:04 GMT Bruce, Thanks for your response. I went back and read the stumper and then looked at the wiring diagram for this car. Never have been in those corners of the compartment before so those grounding points are most likely untouched since 1994. I cleaned them up and skim coated them with dieletric grease. I would imagine even if they are not the current fault it was time well spent to help prevent problems down the road. I posted the same post to the 700 board and Pilicer suggested that I clean the two grounds on the fuel rail. I don't think they had been done before either. I will admit that since doing those two the pumps have cycled every time I turn the key on. With those grounds removed the relayed buzzed and the tach jumped to 6500. I guess that doesn't mean that somewhere between a perfect ground and an open couldn't cause the intermittent no cycle condition I was experiencing. I guess the next thing is to just start driving again and see if the problem has vanished. Thanks again, Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383672&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 19:17 GMT Well, at this point I can definitely maybe you were right :-) While those two points did not appear particularly suspect, they were anything but perfectly clean. I know I hadn't cleaned them on this car. I cleaned and scuffed them up and gave all the contact surfaces a thin coat of dielectric grease. I haven't taken the car out yet (and given it the opportunity to let me down), but as I cycle the ignition on and off it has not missed a single cycling of the pumps. Is that intermittent cycling of the pumps when turning the ignition on and off an exact replication of what yours was doing? I turned the key on with both grounds disconnected and the relay was buzzing and the tach registered 6500 rpm. Even if it turns out not to be the particular root cause it is a good maintenance item to have done. Thanks for your response. Randy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383666&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 18:34 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/