http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=8932 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:30 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:30 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Probably just oil leaking down onto valves. It burns off after start. The long downtime would just give it more time to leakdown. It isnt anything to worry about unless you have high oil consumption or fouling plugs. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=837278&rss=1 Mon, 9 Aug 2004 01:57 GMT It doesnt sound like a transmission problem. The only thing in transmission that might even come close to having this type of effect is the torque convertor. I doubt if that is your problem. Perhaps a engine or transmission mount is loose? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=837275&rss=1 Mon, 9 Aug 2004 01:48 GMT On an engine with this many miles it is a good idea to overhaul the engine. Bring the head back to specifications increases the vacuum and power causing blowby when accelerating and sucking oil past the rings when decel or idle. You might correct oil consumption from valve seals, but it could be offset by increases from other sources. Of course all you may want to do is just correct the leak. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=836677&rss=1 Sat, 7 Aug 2004 01:33 GMT I have seen a few cases like yours and under the conditions you describe. We use to see it a lot on Chevy small blocks. High rpm would pump a lot of oil up into the valve cover, overloading the valve guide seals. You would get a ton of smoke out the exhaust when you let off the accelerator due to high vacuum conditions. This conditions is further compounded when there is sludge buildup on top of the head at the oil drainback channels leading to the crankcase. This slows the return of oil to the crankcase and it pools around the valves. So it sounds like valve guide seals or cleaning return passages. You only have just over 100,000 on the engine so I doubt you have piston ring wear. Besides you would seal oil smoke on hard accel too. As an aside you might want to check and make sure the flame trap isnt blocked. It will contribute to oil smoke. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=833765&rss=1 Sat, 31 Jul 2004 12:06 GMT I have to agree with you on removing plugs and at least putting antiseize compound on modern aluminum head engines. We have a real problem with Ford 4.6 and 5.4 and the 10 cyl engines blowing out sparkplugs occasionally. In most cases the head has to be replaced instead of retapping. I wasnt aware of the higher resistance of the platinum plugs. Thanks for the info. I have always believed in using metal plug wires instead of carbon for the lower resistance. The monomag wires are great for this and no radio interference. Been using them for years. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=831241&rss=1 Sun, 25 Jul 2004 17:43 GMT You didnt say if you checked the P/S reservoir for low fluid or if you heard noise on turns. If fluid is full and no noise from the pump, your rack is leaking internally at the spool valving. I doubt if you can fix it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=831238&rss=1 Sun, 25 Jul 2004 17:36 GMT I would check out Apache Salvage in Mansfield. They have a big supply of volvo wagons and sedans. It is a pick and pull, great prices. I got a Ac compressor and evaporator core out of one last year for $50. The receipts were in the glovebox and both have been installed on the car about 7 months prior to getting totaled in a wreck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=830994&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:56 GMT Well I hate to admit it but I was wrong about some types of sparkplugs. When I bought my 240 the first thing I did was tune it up, installing new wires, cap, rotor, and PLATINUM tip sparkplugs. It ran ok when I bought it and ran better after the tune up. Still it seemed to have more of a swing in idle speed that I would expect and seemed to be weak on acceleration. I wrote off the lack of hp to the normal volvo engine performance. In the past I would have said all sparkplugs are the same and only went with the Platinums for longevity. The other day the old girl seemed a bit sluggish after only 30,000 on the tune up. So, I decided to change the plugs. This time I decided I would go with NGK copper plugs instead of Platinums. I pulled the plugs and they were all clean, normal color, and normal gap. In short, all in great condition. After putting in the copper plugs BOY!, was I surprised! The engine settled down to a very smooth idle, much more so that when I first tuned the engine. It accels better now, more power, in short the engine is just simply running better on the copper tips than the platinums. I still cannot explain why this is so, but for volvo engines I will no longer use platinum tip plugs. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=830977&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jul 2004 23:14 GMT Reverse is run by a different set of clutches than the forward gears. You probably had bad lip seals of the clutch pistons, or the clutches have fianlly worn out. A soft overhaul is indicated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=830711&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jul 2004 03:32 GMT Well considering it is very illegal to sell and to install a used catalytic convertor I would be very suspect about your mechanic and his intentions. Get a second opinion http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=827338&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jul 2004 02:10 GMT That size fan should work fine. Besides you really only need it at idle to around 30mph. I bet you have something wrong with sensor or the wiring. You may not have a high temp problem at all and sensors are just reporting high temp. Are you having coolant overflow? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=827329&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jul 2004 02:01 GMT You might check your heater/ac control panel. Your vacuum controls might be leaking, causing whistle. Of course this is summer and that area usually does it in winter when heat is used, but I would certainly check it out. BTW it most always does it when your going over 50 mph. Does it change in pitch or go away if you decel or operate the heater control lever and the buttons? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=824444&rss=1 Fri, 9 Jul 2004 01:16 GMT 1/2 gallon in 50 miles is a lot! It doesnt appear that it is an internal leak thru the head gasket or your car wouldnt be running very well and you would definitely see coolant smoke in the exhaust. Still it might be external leak of the head gasket. You would have to see a coolant spot on the ground with a coolant trail. You never said if you had a coolant smell in passenger area. I guess it is always possible heater core is leaking and somehow draining thru evaporator case drains. But still you should get a really strong coolant smell and coolant on ground. If you are not seeing the leak, it sounds like you will have to do a pressure test. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=822866&rss=1 Mon, 5 Jul 2004 02:15 GMT I wouldnt just take the thermostat out. Go ahead and replace it as good idea/maintenance. Running a car without the thermostat causes many problems on computer controlled cars. First of all regarding the overheat. Actually if it can cause even worse overheating in summer by removing thermostat. The coolant has to circulate at a certain rate thru the engine and radiator for sufficient heat exchange. No thermostat means faster circulation and less heat exchange. Especially in summer when the differential in outside temp and radiator temp is less so there is less heat exchange to begin with. Second, you have a computer (ECM) that takes output from the engine coolant temp sensor that allows the computer to trim the fuel based on engine temp. In short, you engine may not even reach operating temp. Besides thermostats are cheap for all the work you are doing. Another thing to consider. Does the engine temp go up at idle only or does it go down when driving? If so, possible fan clutch failure. If you replace thermostat, and it overheats at idle or driving, possible water pump impellor failure, or even soft radiator suction hose collapsing, stopping circulation. Also you might get someone to test coolant sensor for temp gauge or check temp of coolant when gauge reads overheat. If it is overheating and coolant full and good, not overflowing then you may simple have bad temp gauge or sender. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=822651&rss=1 Sun, 4 Jul 2004 15:30 GMT I checked my profile and found that the address was out of date and corrected it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=819875&rss=1 Mon, 28 Jun 2004 03:04 GMT Thanks for the interest. It got started when my son went off to college and wanted to email me. I created ASUDAD for Angelo State University where I went to school. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=819874&rss=1 Mon, 28 Jun 2004 03:00 GMT YES! and we used lead to fill in seams eheh. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=819506&rss=1 Sun, 27 Jun 2004 03:04 GMT This might seem a bit excessive, but if you can get a come-along attach it to a post or something firmly attached to structure, hook the other end to the radiator core support or header the hood latch is attached to and slowly begin pulling the frame out till the pressure is relieved from the latch. Believe it or not we use to run a wrecker service as part of our business and have pulled many "fender benders" out so the hood could be released, by using the wreckers hook on the core support and slowly pulling it out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=819279&rss=1 Sat, 26 Jun 2004 14:48 GMT My question is does it die when you are driving and above idle? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=813065&rss=1 Sat, 12 Jun 2004 15:24 GMT It is a simple process where painters add a plasticizer to the paint. The plasticizer costs about $25? a bottle, but you will use less than a quart of mix to paint spoiler most likely. You should take the spoiler off as most painters dont like to overspray all ready painted areas of non-plasticized paint with the plasticized paint. If you dont take off spoiler, you will have to paint in two stages, masking off painted areas and that costs money! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=813054&rss=1 Sat, 12 Jun 2004 14:45 GMT Yours sounds just like mine. I call it a Singer sewing machine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=807306&rss=1 Sat, 29 May 2004 01:46 GMT A good rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 rpm. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=807304&rss=1 Sat, 29 May 2004 01:39 GMT You might also just have bad axle bearings or the ring and pinion gears have excess backlash. Either is easy to fix and might as well do both at same time. You can measure the backlash,, say you find it 0.015 inches and you need 0.005 inches. Pull the shims from both sides of carrier, noting which side each was on. Measure them. Add 0.010 greater thickness to the side that will push the ring gear closer to pinion. Subtract 0.010 from the other side and install. This might cure noise. If the noise is mostly on decel and accel it might cure it. Of course you could buy a complete rear end, but it may have the same problem all ready. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=804602&rss=1 Sat, 22 May 2004 22:18 GMT It is on the back of the compressor. follow large ac line from firewall down to compressor the valve associated with that ac line is the low side. The ac line is one from evaporator core inside car to the compressor. The high side line is smaller in diameter and runs from compressor to the condensor in front of radiator. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=801221&rss=1 Sat, 15 May 2004 15:58 GMT The drop in oil pressure is simply related to the drop in idle. A rule of thumb is you have adequate oil pressure if you have 10psi for ever 1000 rpm. In your case you have about 28 psi when it drops. I think I would start with the throttle position sensor and verify it doesnt have a dead spot. If it were a fuel pressure problem, I would imagine you would have a driveablity problem on acceleration rather than at idle. A bad fuel pressure regulator would cause more of a hard start situation/extended crank to start. I doubt the crank sensor is or was a problem. That usually is a heatsoak problem and you wouldnt be able to start engine for 20 or 30 minuts, maybe more. If I were to take a longshot at it for now, I would say check all grounds and electrical connections. Perhaps the motion of the engine on shifts causes short to ground or open circuit. I am curious if you might be getting some black smoke at exhaust and a really foul smell when you have this problem? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=801218&rss=1 Sat, 15 May 2004 15:51 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/