http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=859 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:29 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:29 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Also remove and sand behind the ignition amplifier (on driver's fender side). I've had similar problems with 90 240. got one from the Boneyard and replaced it ....no problema! Good luck, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383755&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 03:07 GMT I've replaced the entire shifter on my daughter's 92 740 and the bolt heads were on top, under the plastic cover behind the shift lever. I'm thinking someone put them on wrong on your car. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371622&rss=1 Fri, 11 Sep 2009 17:28 GMT Looks like the correct action is to replace the worn caliper with a rebuilt one..I hope you are not rebuilding all these calipers. el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370751&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 22:49 GMT Looks like I have the same problem with son's 93 245...it's losing power steering fluid and I have installed a rebuilt rack 3 years ago. Time to install a good used HS power steering hose. Thanks again, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370750&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 22:47 GMT After many attempts and much headaches, I finally had a no-crank under my carport.Having my son attempt to start the 740, I traced the current to the blue/green wire going to the solenoid..it was there( as evidenced by a test light). Upon using the BFH and a giant (24") Snap-on screwdriver to rap the solenoid, it started right up. So, even though I had this starter rebuilt 2 years ago, it could still be going intermittently,no??? Too late for the 90 day warranty, but I guess I'll be getting it redone tomorrow. Rebuilding is my life! el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370747&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 22:43 GMT Thanks, Onkel: I think he wants the concealable ones that cost about $400, but a student of mine who is a policeman now has been to Iraq and Afghanistan and he says nothing can protect one against an AK 47 round. That is what the 'Importers' use and the Mexican Army uses AR 15's..so, I would guess he will rely on the Volvo metal to protect him. As for the 245, he is driving it right now, but I have a head gasket and a rebuilt head stored away for the time when the head gasket blows. He is applying for another job as we speak, because the pay at the local newspaper is quite low (plus the 5% pay cut this year)...it's not like he works for Xe (Blackwater). Thanks again, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370737&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 22:12 GMT My son is a photojournalist covering the drug-fueled shootouts between the drug 'importers' and the Mexican Army. He uses his 90 245 to travel into Mexico. Last Friday the Mexican Army forced him to turn into a lamp post, which resulted in pushing in the driver side fender enough to crack the plastic radiator. It blew apart on the International Bridge, with the engine idling but it got so hot it would not start. After pushing it by hand ( having a reporter who once was a professional kick-boxer on board was handy) they made it back to the USA. We replaced the radiator with a 2-row all metal Nissens. The 245 started right up and idles fine. My question is "Do we have to worry about the head being warped?" What else fries when the engine overheats like this? Do we have to replace the engine temp sensors (for the gauge and the CPU)? Thanks for any help. BTW...my son is now researching bullet-proof vests for his job. Any suggestions,Bricksters? el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370627&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 11:55 GMT Thanks,Bricksters! What is frustrating about this no-crank is that it is intermittent. Most of the time, the 92 740 starts right up, but once in a while, especially after a hot-soak and being parked in the hot South Texas sun, it will not crank. The lights on the dashboard do dim yet I don't even hear a click or any sound. I can try turning the key many times, no crank! So I leave it for a while (15-30min),come back and she fires right up. I have noticed sometimes that it has a slight hesitation before the cranking starts, as if some relay or connection was being made. But now that I replaced the vibration damper, perhaps I tightened up some loose ground onto the firewall. I have also traced the current through the neutral safety switch and it does go out the green/blue wire to the solenoid, even when there is a no-crank. I have traced it to the blue connector on the pink wire near the driver's fender for the remote starter switch and it does flow even when a no- crank. Perhaps I have a defective solenoid, even though the starter was rebuilt 2 years ago. Will keep trying to trace it as I cannot afford to turn this 92 in as a 'clunker' and make the payments on a $15000 Honda Civic. Gracias! el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370626&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 11:44 GMT It is really no problem to replace the girling pads...look in the FAQ for directions. You will need a thin 17mm open end wrench to counter hold the pin while you remove the 13mm bolt that holds the pins onto the caliper. I made one by having a machine shop grind down a regular Craftman wrench to 1/4" thickness. A Bicycle shop may be able to sell you the correct wrench. Be sure to use blue lock-tite to hold the 13mm bolts in and plenty of brake lube on the pins. buena suerte, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370546&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:48 GMT While troubleshooting daughter's 1992 hot no-crank,no-start, I came across a black box on the firewall that the engine's ground wire from the head bolts onto. It has "Volvo 35 28 909", ">PA6 GF<" on it and a date of manufacture of 9/91. When I dissasembled it, I found inside just a large metal weight encased in plastic. There was a small burned out, melted hole in the plastic. What does this do? Could it be associated with the no-crank condition? Thanks for any help and advice. el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370542&rss=1 Sun, 6 Sep 2009 22:20 GMT I suspect now that the connection at terminal 50 is loose...I squeezed it with pliers and added di-electric grease...seems to not have the slight hesitation before cranking that it used to have...will find out tomorrow more...right now my son and I are off to see "District 9"..SciFi movie. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369102&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 01:00 GMT I had a similar situation with my 93 245 and it turned out that I had installed the Crank Position Sensor crooked and after I re-installed it correctly (took several weeks to find the problem) it has been a champ from then on. See what your CPS is like (worn insulation, broken wires, etc). buena suerte, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369045&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 20:37 GMT Just got stranded at HomeDept, but I used the time to look over stuff there. I have pulled out the connectors to the Neutral Safety Switch and rigged up a travelling test light. When a no-start occurs, I turn the key to #3 (start) and test for current. It seems that current is flowing from the NSS out to the solenoid (blue/green wire). Now I am suspecting the solenoid from this rebuilt Bosch starter...maybe the 'rebuilder' did not do such a good job. I'll replace it with a known good starter and see what happens. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369042&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 20:25 GMT Thanks, Chuffsy: I'll give the yellow ones a try in the 92 Rex/Regina after I clean them. If the technique using the PNP fuel rail plus cleaner,compressed air,etc works, I'll use it to clean the black ones on my 86. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369040&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 20:20 GMT Sears sells a GREAT seal puller. It has a red thick handle and a thin curved and notched end that slips right in between the cam and the seal, and allows you to just pull out the seal with no fuss. A screwdriver might scratch the cam metal and create a permanent leak. buena suerte, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368978&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 13:43 GMT I just scored a fuel rail with the yellow Bosch injectors(300 lps flow rate) from the PNP (what a deal!!! All you could carry across the finish line for $60..I saw a guy with 2 engine blocks strapped front & back stagger across and make it). The injectors are from a 95 940 with 130K miles on them. After cleaning and replacing the seals, could I use them on my 86 740 with the black injectors (270 lps flow rate)? Would I get less milage? Gracias, Amigos. el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368977&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 13:34 GMT I bought my 86 740 with a transplanted 89 240 engine in it already. Just buy the long coil wire from FCPGroton that fits 81-83 240 and use a 240 wire set for the plugs (much cheaper cap and rotor) , otherwise....no problema!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368032&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 03:32 GMT wierd!! I found a transmission bolt laying in front of the Crank Position Sensor on wife's 89 740...it had not been torqued down by the tech after the rear main seal replacement last year. Who knows how long it rode there??? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368030&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 03:28 GMT For the Virgos,just take out the 10mm locator pin and replace with a 1cm long 10mm head bolt with the same thread. No problema!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368027&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 03:24 GMT How does one 'rig the latch to have more grip'? I have the same problem with 93 245,as it seems too heavy for latch and bangs into passenger...embarassing!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367815&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 02:49 GMT Got it!! I'll print and take to automotive class on Tuesday. From a quick analysis, it seems the neutral safety switch is suspect even though I replaced it 3 weeks ago with a good pick N Pull one....maybe I got a dud? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367813&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 02:45 GMT Gracias, Mister Klanki!! I've got a complete set of front foam plus covers for my 93 245 to install after my son gets his M.Ed and lands a job that pays above poverty wages, then I get the 'Green Lantern' back. I plan to refurbish her as much as possible and drive her as my last ever car. I will use your technique if I need to rebuild any of the foam cushions on the other 4 Volvos in the family. el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367808&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 02:37 GMT Thanks,Jon: Still not here...try this one: genaro47@yahoo.com sorry to be such a PITA, asking for it, but maybe third times the charm. el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367798&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 02:13 GMT Hello Uncle O: It has not come through as of 2 minutes ago..was the address: raidman47@hotmail.com ? thanks, el raidman http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367790&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 01:37 GMT Yes, you are correct, and I used this connector to test to see if current was flowing to the starter terminal from the key (and it was, as the test light glowed when I turned the key, but got no cranking). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367788&rss=1 Mon, 24 Aug 2009 01:31 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/