http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=8188 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:05 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:05 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. My daughter is reporting the same symptoms with her 94. Thanks for the info - now I have a starting point to check this out. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387302&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 06:04 GMT The only thing I can add to Art's note is some info I saw in the instructions for a replacement blower motor stating that Volvo changed from a field coil motor on early models to a permanent magnet type motor and that this later one is the standard replacement for all models. So whatever you get as a replacement should work in your car. Check the online catalogs of eeuroparts.com and fcpgroton.com, both have received good comments here, and both say they ship internationally. Good luck; it's a fussy and time consuming job but also very satisfying. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386615&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 06:25 GMT There is good info in the FAQ's on the procedure to do a complete flush of the trans fluid. Consider doing an initial flush with ordinary Dexron III from wherever you can get it cheap. It will take about 12qts/litres to do the job. Then if you subsequently go with the synthetic, it will be going into a trans that is at least moderately clean. I like synthetic fluids, but around here, Mobil-1 ATF is about $9 per litre, so I'm sticking with the plain-Jane Dexron, and changing it about every 50k miles. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386517&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:17 GMT OK, here's response number 13.... I use Mobil-1 5W30 in everything but the MGB and the pressure washer. The B gets 15W50. But I don't have turbos and I don't have any leaks worth mentioning....yeah, even the B! Volvo recommend 10W30, but that dates back to older oil technology, and by Mobil's own data, their 5W30 has higher viscosity at 100C than the 10W30. Just as a reference, most GM engines now call for 5W30 in ambient temperatures up to 100F, and that's with ordinary petroleum-base oil. All our cars were changed over to the synthetic at various mileages with no leaks appearing. Given your climate and the presence of a small leak, I would suggest a name-brand 5W40 synthetic. You need the low "W" number to get the turbo lubed at startup. You want to fix that distributor leak - it may affect the functioning of the crank position sensor down below it. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386516&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:07 GMT Failed passenger side motor mount. The engine sags and the filter rests against the mount. Best to repair soon before the filter ruptures. A search on the archives here should turn up some posts detailing others' methods of replacing the mount(s), and you can decide to DIY or go with a shop. Mail order aftermarket parts for all three mounts would be about $20 plus shipping from fcpgroton.com. An independent shop might be in the $150 range for parts and labour. Although that motor mount is often the first to go, usually being drenched with oil at each filter change, the other motor mount and trans mount may not be far behind. Here's Art Benstein's pictorial of an oil pan removal, which has many of the steps needed in the motor mount job: http://cleanflametrap.com/oilpan/ -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386504&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:36 GMT Agree, normal. I inherited a 69 Cadillac in the early 70's and got the GM manual for it so I could DIY. It described how the A/C compressor would always operate with the climate control in the Defrost position. Reason as Dewfpo stated: dehumidify incoming air for quicker window demisting/defrosting. So it's been standard procedure - on some cars anyway - for a long time. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385321&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 07:35 GMT I personally don't like the idea, and don't believe they are necessary if you are careful and thorough in setting up your revised wiring. One more thing to go wrong in a critical system. If fuses are used, I'd go with separate fused circuits to the left and the right low beams, so you have some redundancy. In the event of a brief short to ground, or fuse failure for some other reason, you still have a headlight - not darkness. As for high beams, one (bigger) fuse is probably OK there. Consider using a Circuit Breaker. There are auto-reset CB's in parts stores or the JY in a variety of amperage ratings which have the ATC fuse-type terminals and will plug right into an ATC fuseholder. These don't trip like a household breaker and stay off - they cycle repeatedly as long as overcurrent exists, so you get a chance to pull over, switch off, and find your problem. Things then operate as normal, no need for a new fuse. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384521&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:13 GMT Beating a dead horse here, but.... After a rad repair I used the old rubber bushing to refit the plug on our 940 (LH 2.4). I did not like the ease with which it went in - it seemed it could pop out just as easily under system pressure. I got a new bushing from the dealer and it was tough to get in, as the rubber was much "stiffer" and seemed thicker, too. I lubed it with some antifreeze, and got the plug and bushing in with the use of a very large pair of slip-joint pliers. Moral: use a new bushing. Being a "suspenders and a belt" guy, I also safety-wired it much like Spook did in the initial post here. BTW, my below post is a bit ambiguous (if anyone cares)...the rad "sensor" is not a true sensor, it's a simple switch that closes the contacts at about 95C and opens at about 88C. It does not connect to the ECU, it just triggers the cooling fan relay. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384509&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 18:20 GMT Great idea and cheap insurance! The little plug is where the rad temperature sensor fits in some models. 1994 Green Book wiring diagrams show that LH 2.4 940s use the coolant temperature sensor in the cylinder head to signal the ECU to turn the fan on to low or high speed. Rex/Regina cars used the rad sensor. Volvo saved a few $$ by having their supplier build one rad that would handle both applications. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384429&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 07:52 GMT See how the car runs after all your work before doing the injector cleaning thing, since your problem may have already been solved. 1) the majority opinion seems to be to fix the air preheater into the cold position - often by using a cutoff nail to simulate the little brass thermostat, holding the flap to block the hot air port. If you don't get cold weather that's probably a sensible approach. Yes the spring is really strong, and yes, a properly working thermostat can operate it. It gets cold here in the winter, so I keep the preheater system hooked up and check its function with one of those $5 indoor/outdoor thermometers stuck into the airfilter box. I figure the engine just has to run more efficiently when it's sucking in +20C air rather than -20C. (+68F vs. -4F) 2) what colour(s) is this wire, and are there any others sharing the connector you mention? 3) that sounds like the mounting setup for cars which had the Pulsair system (Calif. spec?) which injected air from the air cleaner box into the exhaust. I think Volvo just used that same plastic housing for all cars and punched out the opening for those which had the hoses and Pulsair valve hooked up. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384428&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 07:26 GMT Some more coolant flush stuff: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1380356/940/960/980/V90/S90/coolant_flush_960.html -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384146&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:37 GMT Art seems to have deciphered the remote starter issue - let me make a suggestion on the spark plug appearance. If one or more injectors are partially plugged with deposits and not delivering the proper amount of fuel those cylinders will run lean, giving the "white" plug appearance. Since the O2 sensor reads the exhaust gas composition as an average of all the cylinders, the ECU may be attempting to correct the lean condition by adjusting the overall air/fuel ratio, such that other cylinders run a little rich. There are a number of posts in the archives about companies that can clean and balance the injectors at reasonable cost. When I did mine, I could not have the car out of service for days, so I pulled a set from a same-year 240 in the self-serve junkyard, and sent them for the cleaning. It was then a pretty quick job to replace the old ones (using new O-rings and seals). -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384143&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 18:15 GMT I drain the pan hot if there is a drain plug. (If not, no worries). Measure what came out of the pan and add that amount of clean fluid back in. Then undo the upper pipe at the rad fitting and proceed as others have said. To back up what blue940 states, get a big wrench and hold the "nut" on the rad VERY STILL while undoing the smaller nut on the cooler piping. I don't like to run it until it is pumping air, so I only run the engine long enough to fill a 2qt/litre jug with the dirty fluid. This takes mere seconds. I've also found that the small diameter tubing and funnel that will fit into the trans dipstick tube will not even come close to keeping up with the rate at which fluid is being pumped out. So I do it on the 2-litre "batch" basis, refilling 2qts of fresh stuff then repeating the process. It has never taken less than 12qts to see clean, clear fluid coming out if the old stuff is fairly grungy, sometimes a qt or two more. Maybe just my advancing years and failing memory, but I have found it too easy to lose track of how many qts in vs. out, so now I jot it down after each batch. Note that the level on the dipstick will vary considerably depending on trans temperature, so get it close before driving, then check at full temp. It's an easy and satisfying bit of maintenance, and just HAS to extend trans life. And, just buy the cheapest name-brand Dexron III you can find. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383792&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 06:25 GMT If that's the original engine, I believe the "Ford V8" in your Volvo is made by Yamaha - or at least under licence to Yamaha. That's what's in the XC90 and S80's. Consumer Reports magazine did an investigation a couple of yrs ago on how American an "American" truck was: the outcome? - the Honda Ridgeline was more American than a GMC Sierra! The Sierra was (I won't have the number right - but close enough) only 40% USA parts and labour, Mexico and Canada being most of it. The Ridgeline was something like 70% USA-originated. You never can tell these days. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382906&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 03:18 GMT The only moderately credible thing I've heard about using ATF in an engine is that some rebuilders supposedly wipe down the cylinder walls with it when installing pistons. Theory: since its lubricity is not as good as motor oil, the rings seat faster. I would put the stories of any benefits of using it as lube oil in an engine under the "Urban Legends" heading (but would be interested to hear otherwise). Every owners' manual I've ever seen requires nothing but quality motor oil going into the engine. Frequently, this is accompanied by a warning against using additives, engine flushes, etc. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382545&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:55 GMT If you remove the screw completely - not sure you can do that, it may have a bulge at the tip to prevent it - the spreader bar that causes the "wings" to spread out and seat the assembly in the core hole could fall off into the water jacket. Then again I'm not sure that matters, maybe it would just sit there and not move around. If you can see what's happening to it down that coolant passage, that would guide your progress. I pulled one from one of my old Detroit V8's many years ago. It was a case of getting a grip on it with a large pair of Vise-Grip pliers and pulling like hell, then loosen the screw a bit more and repeat. Got it out in one piece. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382216&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 04:28 GMT As well as the info in the FAQ's go here: http://www.davebarton.com/index.html ...and click on the "Side Markers on Volvos" button for installation tips. I bought some aftermarket ones recently from a well-known mail order supplier, but IMO, they are quite flimsy compared to the OE Hellas I put on my daughter's 940. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382212&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 04:15 GMT Sucker bait. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381657&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:00 GMT George - that "hose heater" splices into the lower rad hose below the water pump inlet. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381631&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 16:34 GMT I saved myself some time and effort by tying the intake manifold back just clear of the head studs, without disconnecting much stuff on that manifold. With the head on the bench it's easy to turn the cam and check valve clearances. It's also easy to scrape some of the carbon and other deposits from the flat part of the combustion chambers. Spend plenty of time getting the last few atomic particles of old gasket off both head and block mating surfaces if you want your new gasket to last. Plug the coolant passages and the oil feed drilling with bits of rag or paper towel while doing this, then vacuum out the cylinders. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381528&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 23:10 GMT That plate looks like the location for the mechanical fuel pump on carburetted engines. It's driven by an eccentric on the camshaft. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381526&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 22:59 GMT I agree with Dan. I sent mine to a big name shop, even though there were no driveability or economy issues - just on the basis that after so many miles they probably would benefit. The shop's before-and-after data sheet suggested they had been significantly improved and balanced (and they sure looked nice), but I noted no detectable difference in fuel economy, cold starts, spark plug appearance, etc. If you are using a "Top Tier" gasoline, that's probably all the cleaning the system needs. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381523&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 22:39 GMT Sounds like the front bearing is starting to fail. Try removing the drive belt and spinning the alt. by hand and listening. Should be nearly silent except for a slight whirring/rustling (words fail me) noise. Anything like grinding or rattling is bad. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope out of the discount trough of junk at a parts store and it has actually been rather useful in tracking down noise sources. You have to be careful what you bump it into or touch with it once it's plugged into your ears as it really amplifies sounds big time. Ouch. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380848&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 21:40 GMT As you have replaced 'many' water pumps you've seen the rubber seal between pump and cyl head. Being sandwiched between two pieces of metal exposed to the atmosphere, it seems near impossible that the heat on that seal from an inline hose heater could even be equal to normal running conditions...say, climbing a hill on an Arizona summer day. I feel sure there will be no worries. I know what you mean about the difficulty of block heater installation, and the 940 is worse than the 240, being in the front frost plug hole in behind the PS pump. But then, I was only 61 when I put the one in my dtr's 940! I used to have a battery blanket on the 83-240. I haven't had one on any car for many years now, and the combo of synthetic oil, a good battery, and on the coldest mornings, a block heater, have given trouble-free starting. I know N. Minnesota can get cold, but probably no colder than here in Alberta. Anyway - good luck with it..I'd be interested to hear what you decide and how it works. -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380843&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 21:26 GMT I have seen many of these hose heaters in the PnP - often on 740 turbo models where installing a frost plug block heater could be very labour intensive. I've cut one or two out - no evidence of heat damage to the hoses. The rubber hoses would show heat distress long before the metal water pump. Also consider lightweight synthetic oil for easier winter starts...I use Mobil-1 5W30 year round in all the cars, and it does make a difference. You can also stretch oil changes out to (at least) the interval recommended by Volvo -- Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F-M46, dtr's 94-940 B230FD, my 83-244DL B23F-M46, 89-745(LT1 V8), 98-S90, 77MGB and four old motorcycles) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380811&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 18:22 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/