http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=7925 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 20:54 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 20:54 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Thought I'd post a follow up. I found a conversion for that small connector, made for late model GM cars. With slight modification it fit my small connector perfectly and ended in the standard motorola connector. From there I got a Y adaptor so both antennas could go into the single input on the stereo. I immediately regained my lost 20% reception. I found the GM antenna adaptor at Fry's of all places. First time ever I've met and gotten help from a competent employee. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384233&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 04:04 GMT Actually, I think I've finally got you Klaus. I did some digging elsewhere (Brickboard's search is dismal), and it isn't a CD changer connection (that's an 8 pin). It appears that second connector is a diversity antenna, standard on T5 models (mine), and an option on others. It was a secondary pickup using the rear defrost circuit. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/113538-s70-sub-antenna-location-part-number-anything/page__fromsearch__1 Very interesting. I need to find an adaptor of some kind. Anyone with a T5 conquer this before? If not, it's ripe for a writeup. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1379248&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:48 GMT I've finally had to replace the SC-816 (internally amplified) factory radio in my V70 because the FM died. I've got a replacement unit in there now, but when I pulled the original, I noticed there were two antenna connectors. One was the standard connector, round, male, about 0.35" diameter. That one fit perfectly in the standard receptacle on the new radio. A second connector right next to it is the mystery. Structurally it is identical, but appears smaller, say 0.25" diameter. I've never seen one of these before. My FM reception on the new radio is less than stellar. Does any one know what that smaller connector is for? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1379217&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:39 GMT I've replaced the voltage regulator and noticed that mine was rubber mounted, indicating a replaced cluster I guess. Seems like I have a 71-72 cluster with a 67-69 sender. I'll bet they work on different resistance ranges. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377380&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:57 GMT There is no female bung on the bottom of the tank, just that 7/16" hex drain plug. That would seem to indicate it is the right style tank, and that only an early year sender would work. It wouldn't preclude having the wrong sender + gauge combo, because a later year gauge cluster could work in my dash. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377364&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 16:41 GMT Is the voltage stabilizer you talk about the same as the commonly failing voltage regulator, which screws into the back of the instrument cluster? I replaced that because of a different needle problem, but the replacement was exactly the same size. The fuel gauge response was the same before and after the replacement. Where is this voltage stabilizer? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376744&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 18:01 GMT I've got the typical wonky fuel gauge like most others here, but its behavior is more predictable. For the first 60 miles of the tank, the needle rests squarely on F. Then from 60-120, I go from F to E more or less consistently. Then from 120 to the end of the tank (around 230), the gauge sinks well below E into the nether regions. I've taken the sender out. A physical examination shows that the resistance coil and contact arm look in excellent shape, almost new. No rust. An electrical examination shows a resistance range from 3-80 ohms, along the range of the float arm. Now to me, this seems to indicate that I simply have the wrong fuel sender matched with my gauge. The car's odometer works, and is just over 97,000 miles, which is ridiculous. What if a previous owner replaced the cluster with one from a later model 140? My car is a 68, and I note on CVI automotive's website that there is a sender for 67-70 cars (676912), for 71-72 cars (687826), and also for 73 cars, and another for 74-75 cars. The latter two wouldn't have gauge clusters that fit mine, but there are two sender choices for my dash years, and thus two cluster choices. If each sender had a different resistance range, then coupling a cluster in my 68 from say, a 71, would match an inappropriate resistance range with the fuel level gauge. Can anyone confirm that the different sender years differ in resistance ranges? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376257&rss=1 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:32 GMT Will do Cameron. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371224&rss=1 Wed, 9 Sep 2009 23:15 GMT I've taken the vacuum system totally out of the loop, literally driving it around with the manifold port plugged and no power brakes, etc. Problem is unchanged. The only other vacuum leak would be the manifold or gasket, both which have been totally replaced in the course of things already. I also would find it hard to believe that a leak like that would only create a condition coming off high speeds and then eventually recovering. It would create a high idle all the time. All I can do is either replace the motor, or continue to blindly put in intake and gasket after intake and gasket. That's crazy talk! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371191&rss=1 Wed, 9 Sep 2009 19:52 GMT I don't know which is more depressing, Matt's concession that I may have to live with this condition as normal, or your belief that the intake head interface that I've had apart a dozen times is causing the issue despite everything. Sounds like it's time for a new head. My past experiences with leaks at the intake are that they create a high idle all the time. Mine struggles but always returns to normal. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371052&rss=1 Wed, 9 Sep 2009 04:46 GMT After battling high idle issues, and tracking them down, I'm now having another issue. After long periods at highway speeds, when I take the offramp, and eventually disengage the clutch when stopping at the end, the engine almost always struggles and dies. This means that immediately upon disengagement, engine RPM's fall from 4000 to about 200 or barely registering on the gauge. It will struggle for a couple of revolutions there before eventually dying completely. It never backfires. It always starts right back up. Sometimes it will struggle for up to 10 seconds before dying. Sometimes it will struggle for longer at that low speed before finally recovering and returning to 800 RPM. It seems to be a function of the amount of time spent at high RPM's. For instance. After a 30 minute freeway trip, I can be guaranteed 40 seconds of barely running at 200 RPM, sometimes dying, sometimes not. If I let it die and wait 15 seconds for a restart, it will start right up but continue to struggle for the allotted time. If I let it die initially and wait 3 minutes, it will start up smooth as butter. The struggling time seems invariant to how many times I try to restart. If I drive at high RPM's for say 1 minute, it means I'll only have 4-5 seconds of 200 RPM struggling. The amount of time it struggles or dies seem proportional to the amount of time spent at high RPM's. If I come to a stop and leave the car in gear until the last moment, slowing guiding the RPM's down, it seems to sometimes help with the dying, but not always. As soon as I disengage the trans, it will start it's struggle once again. I can save it from dying by pulling the choke out an inch or so. If I let the warm car sit for a few minutes, I can go out and start it right up with no choke. It will idle just fine forever that way. It only struggles after going to high RPM's and coming back down. I've been through several manifolds and gaskets and distributors. I've driven the car with the manifold vacuum port totally blocked. The problem stays exactly the same. The carbs are newly rebuilt. Car drives perfectly fine otherwise. No indicator of fuel or timing issues at speed. It has plenty of pull, etc. Currently running 12 flats down on the dual SU's, 8 deg timing. I have no idea what else I can check. Any ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370976&rss=1 Tue, 8 Sep 2009 21:13 GMT My experience has been that if the cooling system is operating correctly, I read about 5-7 degrees higher than the thermostat rating right at the coolant temp sensor. I also generally read 10-20 degrees cooler than the thermostat rating at the tops of all the head bolts. You definitely need to take readings while the car is running. Especially on a hot day, the engine can warm up quite a bit sitting in its own heat after idling. I've actually gotten very good results from running higher temperature thermostats. I used to run a 160 F thermostat that came with the car when I bought it. The temp gauge would always read 20 degrees to the left of vertical. Then after going through then entire cooling system, I switched to a 195 F thermostat. Now the gauge reads perfectly vertical, and only slightly higher at idle. The engine seems to do fine on some of our hot 90 degree days here in Oregon, and I think it runs much better at that higher temperature. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370168&rss=1 Fri, 4 Sep 2009 16:53 GMT Yes and no. At this moment, it appears there were several contributions to that high idle. First, I had a hairline crack in my intake manifold. Fixing that lowered idle a bit. Second problem was a loose set of timing advance weights in my distributor. This caused my timing to be over advanced at low speeds, artificially raising the idle. A new distributor fixed that. Finally, the biggest contributor was a slightly off centered butterfly valve on my rear carb. This allowed a higher fuel/air flow even at full closed. Re-centering that valve so that fully closed was totally sealed finally fixed that issue. I can now get the car to idle around 800 RPM, although it still wanders around a bit. My remaining problem is that after extended periods at highway speeds, taking my foot off the gas and out of gear causes the engine to die or stutter badly at 200 RPM for 25 seconds. It eventually rights itself, but is mysterious. Around town driving causes no such issues. One potential, I've learned, is a loose jet. If it can move up and down without your foot input, it could cause dying issues, or high idle issues, or a wandering idle, by my figuring. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370162&rss=1 Fri, 4 Sep 2009 16:40 GMT I haven't tried a new set of carbs, mostly because they're hard to come by. I have tried forcibly blocking the air flow into the inlet, and it does drop very fast very quickly. I use ATF in the carbs. Is it possible to overfill? My kick right now is the timing advance weights in the distributor getting stuck in some state of out. I'm thinking this because of the nature of the high idle. After sitting for a short while, occasionally it will idle normally until I go above 1500 RPM, then it will always idle high. Also, very occasionally, the idle will wander slowly down to 800 then wander back up to 1500. That doesn't sound like an air leak to me. I also know my distributor has too much axial play in its shaft. I note in your signature that you have a ton of 140's. You wouldn't possibly have a B18 or B20 distributor you'd loan or sell me would you? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365787&rss=1 Thu, 13 Aug 2009 04:55 GMT Thanks for the suggestion. I'm a member of OVT, and already PM'd him, but he seems to disappear and reappear at random times, so I may just have to give it a few days. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365508&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 03:05 GMT Rhys Kent suggested I get a hold of you, and emails sent through Brickboard seem to not have gotten through. Seems you lurk in this forum the most. He and I are troubleshooting an issue that you may be able to help with. I live in Portland as well. Would you mind giving me a call or sending an email through the board? Thanks! Jason 760 822 4163 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365491&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 02:27 GMT Yes, I did read through the post, and started looking around for another distributor in my desperation. I'm like you in that I've absolutely ruled out all vacuum leaks. Tried a new manifold, totally disconnected the brake booster and PCV valve, and sprayed starter fluid everywhere, without ever affecting the high idle. A total rebuild of my distributor didn't fix the problem either, although I don't have one that has a vacuum advance anyway. At this point, I just have to start blindly replacing parts, starting with the distributor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365431&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 21:07 GMT Ron, this story is quite a bit longer and more complicated that you may realize. In other words, I've already gone through the easy stuff. All these results come from totally disconnecting the vacuum system. I also have no overrun valves. I've been constantly checking my timing, and can adjust it from 10-30 deg. It will affect the idle speed, but will never bring it anywhere close to low enough. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365322&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 14:54 GMT I've had a chance to address several of the suggestions made, without success. First, I totally rebuilt the distributor, thinking the timing advance weights may have been gummed up. They were dirty, but after reinstallation, the problem remained. I have new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points, and coil installed as well. Second, I got ahold of another manifold, one without secondary butterfly valves, or a crack. I made sure the port section was totally flat before installation, and I used a new manifold gasket. Still, no affect on the problem. At this point, once warm, the car idles just below 2000 RPM. The carbs were just recently professionally rebuilt. I have them tuned to 12 flats down, and the idle screws at 180 degrees past engagement. I can artificially lower the idle by leaning the mixture, or messing with the timing, but nothing to bring it even close to normal idle levels. At the current idle speed, it seems like it would have to be something obvious but I've literally replaced everything between the carbs and the head, and I can't think of what else to do!! I'm dying! Help! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365252&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 02:45 GMT The non-running could easily be bad gas. First thing I'd do would be to check if the engine turns over by bringing a battery, or jumping it, and see if it cranks. If it doesn't, I'd turn the crank on the front of the engine itself to see if the cylinders are free and clear. If they are, chances are you're saved from any major engine work. I'd craw underneath and up around the wheel wells and around the windows looking for rust and rot. I'd check the engine carefully to make sure stuff hadn't been pulled off, and that it was complete. What does he want for the car? If it is halfway reasonable, and the engine rotates, snag it! Tow it home and we'll help you trouble shoot. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365209&rss=1 Mon, 10 Aug 2009 23:03 GMT Below, you can see the the crack I have in the intake. I've checked over the rest of the manifold and don't see any other issues. The mating surfaces look square, and the gasket appears to have a complete seal around all the ports. <img src='/GALLERY/images/8718.jpg'/> Despite the picture, I'm more convinced now than ever that it's actually a timing issue. After reassembly, I started cold with choke. Everything seemed normal. Warmed up the engine and it seemed to idle at 1000 RPM, but was a little rough. Checked the timing, it was at 0 degrees. Loosened the distributor and attempted an adjustment. As soon as I advanced at all, it jumped up to 20 deg and about 1600 RPM. I turned it back a little, and it jumped down to 0 deg and 1000 RPM. I fiddled for a long while, and there was simply no way to get it to stay between 0 and 20. So I picked a spot as close to center of those two as possible and retightened the distributor. Now with the engine warm, when I first start it up, it idles at 1000 RPM. If I rev it at all and let it fall down, it falls to 1600 RPM and stays. If I stop and start the engine, it again idles at 1000 RPM. Am I facing multiple issues here? The car seems to act differently every time I start it up, or tear down and reassemble the carbs and manifold. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363519&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 20:29 GMT I've spent a good half day messing with my 68 145, dual SU carbs. After a 30 minute freeway drive, I got off, and noticed that the car was idling about 1600 RPM, and it would not go down no matter how long I gave it. I pulled off and began messing with everything. Blocking off either the PCV or the brake booster vacuum hoses does not alter the high idle. I messed with the mixture, idle, and plugging the vacuum hoses one at a time. Nothing seemed to fix it. At one point, with the mixture back to where I balanced it before (11 flats down), I totally unscrewed the idle screws, without changing the high idle at all. FYI, the SU's are totally rebuilt, and are totally functional. I've tried to cover all bases. I've made sure the choke set screws are correct, and that the jets are all the way up when the choke cables are retracted. I've triple checked that the throttle linkage is not sticking and keeping the throttle plates slightly open. They definitely aren't. I've been up and down the mixture scale, and while I can kill it on the rich and lean ends, I've got it dialed in at a reasonable place, 11 flats down. High idle still persists. So I began messing with the timing. At 1600 RPM idle it was about 21 deg, which seemed just about right. However, when I tried to adjust it, I couldn't get it to stick. What I mean is, when I would reduce the advance a few degrees, it would drift by itself all the way down to 0 deg and almost kill the engine. Then, when I tried to compensate and bring it back up a little bit, it would drift all the way back to 21 deg or so. It was like it was impossible to keep the car at any timing advance between 0 and 21 deg. I'm not sure if this is normal at 1600 RPM or not. I'm pretty convinced I've eliminated everything else. I've pulled apart the distributor and everything looked ok. The points were clean, the spring on the points arm seemed to operate the arm just fine. All the contacts on the rotor and distributor head were good as well. I have a hairline crack in my intake, but I'm pretty sure it's been there a while, and it seems pretty benign. I don't feel like it could be introducing enough air to make the idle this high. Also considering I know its been there in the past, without the high idle problem. Anyone have any ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363376&rss=1 Sat, 1 Aug 2009 23:58 GMT I thought I'd conclude this saga with a nice story. After tearing into my carbs, I discovered that not only were my jets different lengths, they were also too small. This created havoc trying to tune things. Additionally, the primary butterfly valves were incorrect, and I had play in my primary throttle shaft. Eventually I decided to have Rhys rebuild the carbs. The transaction was painless, and he went above and beyond to do an outstanding job. Carbs came back as if they were brand new, and every detail was taken care of. I put them on the car, and it started right up. After some tuning, the car is like brand new. More power, better economy, smooth acceleration. It really is a pleasure to have fixed all those issues in one effort. I would highly recommend Rhys to anyone considering a carb rebuild. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362884&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 05:04 GMT Ron, I went back and measured the orifice of both jets, and they were actually 0.09" ID's, but coupled with needles that were 0.990" OD. Combine that with the fact that the rear jet was 0.125" longer than the front. Weird set of equipment in this thing! There were several other issues that needed addressing on these carbs, including some play in the throttle shafts, and the wrong style throttle plates. I priced out various rebuild kits because it seemed like a good idea to just return everything to stock while I've got it apart now. In the end, I actually decided to send them to Rhys for a rebuild. Taking into account the hardware costs, I felt like his rates were very reasonable, and I've heard he does excellent work. So they're in the mail now. I do feel very satisfied with having found the real problem, and as strange as it sounds to now have someone else do the fix for me, it just seems worth it. While they're gone, I'll have a chance to convert to my alternator and replace my parking brake cable. The list goes on! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358618&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 22:57 GMT I've torn apart both carbs in search of an answer. This is after messing with tuning for hours, and not getting good or repeatable results. I've read different things about how to tune the mixture. Some say the results of lifting the pin to raise the piston shows the mixture of the other carb. Some say lifting that pin shows the mixture on that carb. Either way, I wasn't able to get understandable or repeatable RPM change results to make heads or tails of anything. So I ripped them apart. Here's what I found. Front SU Carb <img src='/GALLERY/images/8662.jpg'/> Rear SU Carb <img src='/GALLERY/images/8663.jpg'/> As you can see, the rear carb's jet is longer than the front. Both needles appear to be the same. Would different length jets make these carbs pretty much untunable? Another observation not shown is that after running the car a long time, then shutting it off and removing the piston and needle assembly, I had fuel pretty violently percolating out of the jet. I had to keep the needle in there to keep from loosing lots of fuel. It would do this for 15 minutes after shutting off the car. The rear jet didn't percolate at all. Am I boiling my fuel in the float chamber? I can't find any identifying marks on the needles or the jets. I checked everything else I could think of. The float chambers and floats themselves look in good condition. Neither float was leaking, and they both appear set at the same level. At this point getting matched jets seems the logical step, but I'm not sure how to proceed. I'm trying to assess the condition of everything and figure out how deep a rebuild I want to go. Should I consider a complete rebuild at this point? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358156&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 18:42 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/